I have never made those claims, maybe you should read my sig.

 

chances are it is a hybrid, it costs $278 to get the stock turbo completely rebuilt by turbocity. I really don't see the stock turbo even with an tuned aftermarket ecu and SP could get those numbers without some sort of *chemical* aid. TURBO PICUTES! EEEEEEEE!!

 

 

I am impressed. I a sure the recent cold spell in Florida helped some, but those are some amazing numbers for a stock turbo.

Perhaps when Mazport got the turbo rebuilt, they put a nice 60-1 wheel inside it? It's pretty common upgrade with TII turbos.

Either way - congrats.

 

Ok

Spoke with Mazsport this am and the manifold is stock S4 but they did machine work to the inside of the turbo.

 

yea the dyno graph shows that, thats why i wondered. BUT.... like i said 355whp is alot, for a hybrid, for what ever.

There are lots of people with full to4 60-1 setups makin less hp @14psi

nice setup man!

 

yea it's all good, YOU HAD NO IDEA! like sleeper said, regardless those numbers are fuggin great! just from a turbo we expected

next time people shouldn't get so defensive when something like this is brought up. you gotta realize that if that really was a completely stock s4 turbo you would, like sleeper said, have broken records

 

Perfect7:

Sorry if alot of people questioned your dyno pull, but 350 out of a stock S4 turbo is something never heard of (at least in the second gen world). Not saying it cant be done, but you really cant blame the guys for wanting proof. 355 is more of the hybrid/single turbo upgrade area. I am also boosting a stock S4 motor on a BNR stage 4 turbo, and so far I have managed 347.5 RWHP at 17 PSI. I would be REALLY interested in the specifics of how you managed 355 @ 14 PSI. If you dont want to post your secrets here, PLEASE pm me so we can chat.

Rat

 

That is a crazy amount of power. I hope that one day I have 225 hp at the rear wheels. I couldn't even imagine what 355 hp feels like in an FB. Congrats.

 

Yah, I didn't know you could get that much power from a stock turbo. I am going to go with a T04 because i wanted 350 at the wheels.. Post some more info on your setup..

 

Okay, so now that we know what a hybrid can do, what do you guys think that stock S5 turbo (totally stock, not hybrid) can do on a street ported 13B 4 port with about 10PSi? My motor was built (over 10 years ago) to roughly 210 flywheel horsepower (N/A, mind you), and I was thinking that maybe when I rebuild it, I would snag a stock S5 turbo and fit it on there. I'm not looking for serious numbers. My goal, ideally, would be a lagless 275-280 wheel horsepower with a nice torque curve. I figured that with a relatively small turbo, such as the S5 turbo, my lag problems would be solved. I also figured that I could probably get one pretty cheap.

So, can a motor that has about 200 flywheel horsepower naturally aspirated make somewhere in the range of 280 wheel horsepower on a TII turbo running "safe amounts of boost?" This car is going to be a daily driver, and I will not deal with a car that has hissy fits every other day. Before my motor let go, the car was superb. It had it's quirks, certainly, but most of the time it was spot on and a fun, lively, reliable car.

Sorry the thread hijack, but, well, this is a rather large audience following this thread.

 

I think you are heading for disaster with your ideas. 10 year old motor that was never designed to be boosted does not sound like a good idea for a daily driver. If I were you save your money and piece a complete package and do it right. Maybe a jspec w/trans and save up to mod what you need to do it right. I paid $1200 for a low mile excellent condition jspec w/trans. It pretty much took off from there. I am glad I did it right.

 

Sorry, I didn't specify. My motor lost a coolant seal about 4 or 5 months ago. When I rebuild it, if I go the turbo root, I will have S5 rotors put in and any other necessary things for boost. It's not like I have a 10 year old motor that still runs that I am going to ghetto rig a turbo, too.

Sorry for the misunderstanding.

 

If you want lagless turbo action and still run a ported engine youll need to stick to a set plan of attack.Small,short intake plumbing and lower boost levels.Thing is,the two are kinda contradictary,which is why turbo engines tend to have mild porting,sequential twin turbos came to be,and more recently ball bearing and fancy-shmancy turbos are getting more popular.

Porting tends to hurt lowend torque,which in turn reduces RPM gain in the lower ranges,which in turn hurts turbo spoolup.Running a smaller turbo will help will spooling,but it can hurt a ported engine up top,when the porting makes the engine breathe deeper....often the smaller turbo cant keep up and your flat out of boost at redline.
You can and will make more HP with less boost pressure when porting,since the longer,larger ports will allow more air in.But if you go too far youll only get good power in the midrange on up.For a stock S5 turbo,Id say no more than a mild streetport.That way you can stick to about 10 psi,which will be HP-wise,about equal to 12-13psi on stock ports.The HT-18 will top-out its revs at around that pressure with a stockport engine.Ive gone higher,but the turbo was absolutely howling at 14psi and my intake temps were ridiculous......
Thats yuor other hang-up.When that little turbo gets moving towards its upper levels,your gonna be heating the air a lot.A bigger intercooler will help,but that adds intake volume,which increases lag.If you keep the boost pressure around 10-12 psi,the turbo shouldnt exceed its performance range and the air shouldnt get too hot,which will allow a smaller IC,which will regain you your quick spoolup....and besides,lower turbo outlet temps will automatically increase power via denser air,even without the IC taken into the equation.Thats why hybrids are popular.They move more CFM of air at lower compressor speeds, which keeps the air cooler and feeds those larger engine ports.Youll pickup some lag from the bigger cold side,but its unavoidable.The stock hotside means an easy install and stock appearance.The tricky part of a hybrid is inside the hotside.It has to pass more volume,so wastgate porting or clipping is required to clear out all that air without being a bottleneck.

The whole thing is a tricky balancing act between style of power delivery-airflow volume-temperature-and engine life.

And also,in your case Id still port out the S5 wastegate holes.Without a clip job on the turbine,youll still get some boost creep at increased pressure levels on a ported engine.There just isnt enough room for all that volume of air to get by the turbine without over spinning it.

You might even consider sticking with N/A rotors.The higher standing compression will boost lowend power and spoolup.Plus,with extra compression you wont have to run as much boost to get the same level of HP....that means less turbo induced intake heating and less reliance on a big IC.All turbos do is increase compression ratio artificially,so what does it matter?N/A rotors are still robust and cast iron,youll just have to be careful not to go too high with the boost pressure as to avoid detonation.....

 

Wow. Thanks a bunch for the info, man. That really helps with deciding on how to do this.

So, figuratively speaking, my motor rebuilt running the same rotors with an S5 turbo, ported wastegate, and possibly worked cold side would get me going good at about 10 PSi even with a "normal sized" intercooler?

Like I said, I'm not looking for absolute ball busting performance, just a little kick in the ***. But, I think daily driven reliability will play the biggest factor, and I don't think running my motor past 4,500 rpm just to get on boost will help too much with my reliability.

 

If you kept the N/A rotors,you could likely just run a S5 turbo bone stock(port the WG for safety) and it'll hit around 7-8 psi very quickly.
With the higher static compression ratio of N/A rotors,the turbo will spool quicker and youll need less turbo boost to make the same HP.The stock S5 engine is very responsive with 9.0-1 ratio rotors and it hits 8psi to make 200HP and 200 lbft torque....and thats with a crappy IC and conservative tuning.The torque is what you really feel and that makes for flexible power delivery.Add a better IC,mild porting,N/A rotors at 9.4-1 ratio and equal boost levels and you should be able to hit near 300HP with the right tuning.
Most people just think,more boost,boost,boost.....but boost is just a measure of resistance in the intake,against the turbo's output.Porting reduces resistance by opening the ports longer and bigger.That way more air gets into the engine via volume,thus less boost pressure is needed/generated.Less turbo outlet pressure means less heat and less IC needed....provided you can move enough CFM out of the turbo to keep the engine from "outsucking" the turbo.

For the record,a 300 crank HP FB is plenty quick.I drive one everyday and its more than a kick in the pants.Granted,mine has a bit of lag with the hybrid TO4B,big FMIC and streetporting,but I kinda like it that way.A little lag helps me to stay N/A around town and when Im not looking to waste gas,attract attention or get tickets.It also helps with engine longevity,we all know how long N/A rotaries last.I figure,if Im driving around under vacuum most of the time,my motor will last forever.If I need to get quick its just a second or two away,or an immediate downshift gets things boiling.

 

did we ever figure out what injectors were used?

 

what he said

 

awesome numbers, makes me feel good about my h-trim hybrid on high compression turbo motor
and its a wheel hybrid only? did you catch what trim? mine is a h-trim wheel only, stock compressor housing.

was the power dying off at 7k where you stopped or was it still climbing like that? that was really going
-Ben Martin