kc0stp

Wheres the factory redline set at? (7k goes dashed but Mazda did the same thing on early Miatas 500rpm before the true redline)
Is there a factory rev limiter? If so at what rpm?

flight_of_pain

No factory rev limiter in a distributor equipped first gen. I recommend you shift when it beeps

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

there's a difference between the redline and the rev limiter. the redline is the engine's maximum speed in revolutions per minute and the rev limiter is a device that cuts ignition spark and does not allow the engine to exceed a certain speed in revolutions per minute..

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

& keep in mind that some years don't beep.

Redline =/= shiftpoint. Redline = envelope.

flight_of_pain

I guess I have never thought about non-buzzer cars due to all of mine being s3. I am saddened slightly to know that some people do not get to enjoy the wonderful buzz that mazda sought fit to bestow upon us.

Typically when this question is asked around here it is a "when do i shift?" type of inquiry.

In my experience a stock port 12a will have a noticeable loss of power over 7000-7200, although from what i have read you can run a stock rotating assy. to ~8400-8500 before mechanical contact happens. whether or not the oiling system is up for 8000+ is an entirely different discussion.


Isaac

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

its not the oiling system thats not adequate for 7K rpm overrun. the issue is the apex seals and apex seal chatter along with stationary gear strength. its NOT adviseable to run over 7K rpm on a stock engine. its maximum power (12A) comes at 6000rpm so much of anything past that is semi useless and can cause harm is left overrun.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

i agree, max power is 6000, running to 7000-7200 is fine, but no reason to rev it higher...

kc0stp

Once again thanks for the info folks, and time for the back story to go along with the questions. Currently the owner of an '84 RX-7 (Carb'd) thats been converted to race trim (stock engine) and on the occasional corner its an open debate if its worth the time to upshift (upshift to 4th wait 5-10sec then brake and downshift or keep it in 3rd most times) or not so was curious just how far you could take it without doing damage. To add to the fun and excitment the exhaust isnt exactly stock so unless Im coasting you cant hear the buzzer so that does me exactly 0 good

rotarymike83

I wouldn't bring it past 6k. The engine is probably far from fresh and the apex seals won't take it. Also the engine was not balanced well from the factory. If you have it rebuilt and balanced then you can hit 8 to 9k rpms... But you better do a lot of work to your exhaust, ignition, and intake to take advantage of the rpms.

kc0stp

That reminds me, the engine is a blueprinted version (built by Dave Ott if you know who that is) so I get a feeling that it was balanced better then they ever were out of the factory and its still fairly new (milage/race wise at least)

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

do you have paperwork to prove that the engine was rebuilt with new seals and stronger stationary gears? if not than i wouldnt take the previous owner's word for it unless you know for sure that the work was in fact performed. not worth running the dog snot out of the engine.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

basically it works like this;

the stock 3mm apex seals are not happy much over 7k, they are heavy and start bouncing. if you exceed 7k here and there, its kind of a grey area

replace those with the carbons, and then 8500 is fine.

the factory sold a 9000rpm redline engine, all they did was harden the stat gears, and oil pump, bump the oil pressure, and balance it better.

this assumes that the motor isn't built out of mismatched junk, and that you'd actually make power up that high. also you have to think about the clutch staying together too

i bought all new rotating bits for mine, and then sent it to AZ RR, and glen told me i could spin it to 11, which is just scary.