Dual 36mm Dellorto
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From: Canada
Dual 36mm Dellorto
I was wonder if dual 36mm dellorto's would be large enough for a stock port 12a?
I know there is lots of talk about putting on dual 40's, but that seems a little large to me.
As for the intake manifolds, thats a non issue as i will be fabricateing my own.
Any input would be helpfull as i am rather new to this downdraft/sidedraft carb thing
I know there is lots of talk about putting on dual 40's, but that seems a little large to me.
As for the intake manifolds, thats a non issue as i will be fabricateing my own.
Any input would be helpfull as i am rather new to this downdraft/sidedraft carb thing
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yea for shure im gonna post a pic of the manifold when i get it done
the reason im gonna go with dual 36's is because they are cheaper on ebay (i can get 2 36's for 130 vs 3 40's (i know 3, wtf do i need 3 for!) 180
my big worrys are going to be tuning, i was thinkin doing the same specs as the old racing beat ones (well 1/2 the vals on each carb)
whats your thoughts on that aspect
the reason im gonna go with dual 36's is because they are cheaper on ebay (i can get 2 36's for 130 vs 3 40's (i know 3, wtf do i need 3 for!) 180
my big worrys are going to be tuning, i was thinkin doing the same specs as the old racing beat ones (well 1/2 the vals on each carb)
whats your thoughts on that aspect
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Given that a pair of 36mm chokes on a sidedraft is good to 150 HP or maybe a bit more (all my HP is flywheel btw) and you have 4 to play with, you will only need 30mm chokes in this to get more airflow potential than a single 45 DCOE with 40mm chokes. So heaps and then some.
As for tuning. That will be an interesting challenge if you are new to carbs, but if you arm yourself with a WB-02 and lots of jet drills shouldn't take too long.
As for tuning. That will be an interesting challenge if you are new to carbs, but if you arm yourself with a WB-02 and lots of jet drills shouldn't take too long.
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WB-02 ??
im not to sure what that is
yea, i was readin round on tuning and it seems that im gonna need ots more than jets, emulsion tubes, bleeders....
ahh well im sure it will be a worth while project, ill haperiances when im done with it all, probably a good 3 or 4 mths, lol
im not to sure what that is
yea, i was readin round on tuning and it seems that im gonna need ots more than jets, emulsion tubes, bleeders....
ahh well im sure it will be a worth while project, ill haperiances when im done with it all, probably a good 3 or 4 mths, lol
Wide Band Oxygen Sensor. Hook it up to an air/fuel meter and you get very accurate air/fuel ratio. If you use a 'normal' $25.00 O2 sensor it's not as accurate, but certainly doable.
GO for dual carbs!
GO for dual carbs!
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ahh, yes i was going to get and o2 sensor
dual carbs are a definate
only real thing im kinda sketchy about is the oil metering pump thingy, if i just remove it, then use premix, will i have any problems? and wether or not there is any other wierd things on the intake manifold
dual carbs are a definate
only real thing im kinda sketchy about is the oil metering pump thingy, if i just remove it, then use premix, will i have any problems? and wether or not there is any other wierd things on the intake manifold
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only probs with premix is running out of premix oil when you're at the gas station, and not putting in enough or too much premix when filling up.
besides that it's a more reliable, more consistant form of apex seal lubrication than the OMP.
You'll need a sturdy block off plate for the OMP pump once it's removed. I can hook you up with one, just ask.
intake manifold? just keep and use the brake booster vaccum port on the intake manifold and plug/block off everyand anything else in there. if you make your own manifold then you have control over it's design and form!!
besides that it's a more reliable, more consistant form of apex seal lubrication than the OMP.
You'll need a sturdy block off plate for the OMP pump once it's removed. I can hook you up with one, just ask.
intake manifold? just keep and use the brake booster vaccum port on the intake manifold and plug/block off everyand anything else in there. if you make your own manifold then you have control over it's design and form!!
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where is the brake boster vaccum line attach to on the intake man?
i was intendin for the intake to go 90 degree, useing 4 1 7/8 mandrel bent tubes (90 degree) figure that would be the best flow, gettin the engine and the carb attachment plates cnc machine for me at a local shop
i was intendin for the intake to go 90 degree, useing 4 1 7/8 mandrel bent tubes (90 degree) figure that would be the best flow, gettin the engine and the carb attachment plates cnc machine for me at a local shop
SA all the Way!
Joined: Oct 2002
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From: Montclair, NJ
Originally posted by DriveFast7
only probs with premix is running out of premix oil when you're at the gas station, and not putting in enough or too much premix when filling up.
besides that it's a more reliable, more consistant form of apex seal lubrication than the OMP.
You'll need a sturdy block off plate for the OMP pump once it's removed. I can hook you up with one, just ask.
intake manifold? just keep and use the brake booster vaccum port on the intake manifold and plug/block off everyand anything else in there. if you make your own manifold then you have control over it's design and form!!
only probs with premix is running out of premix oil when you're at the gas station, and not putting in enough or too much premix when filling up.
besides that it's a more reliable, more consistant form of apex seal lubrication than the OMP.
You'll need a sturdy block off plate for the OMP pump once it's removed. I can hook you up with one, just ask.
intake manifold? just keep and use the brake booster vaccum port on the intake manifold and plug/block off everyand anything else in there. if you make your own manifold then you have control over it's design and form!!
about the blockoff... jutny.guff(at)verizon.net
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From: UK
I should have added yesterday that I am doing something similar, but with EFI. You see you can pick up the entire injection set up (TBs injectors, MAP, TPS fuel rail) off a CBR 600 or the like for 50-$100 on ebay. Go rip the pump/swirl tank off a Mk2 golf (rabbit?) and you have a very cheap injection setup.
For the computer you can use a megasquirt or for the brave remap a GM unit (I'm doing both on different cars).
Upshot is, if you are clever and are owed favours you could fuel inject a car for around $150.
For the computer you can use a megasquirt or for the brave remap a GM unit (I'm doing both on different cars).
Upshot is, if you are clever and are owed favours you could fuel inject a car for around $150.
Blocking off OMP:
Call European Motorworks 1.800.722.8678 and ask for a Type 4 VW fuel pump block off plate. It's bolt holes are exactly the same size and spacing as our OMP! It's general size is extremely similar. I had to mount mine upsidedown if I remember right.
Anyways, buy that fuel pump block off plate. Get 1/8" thick by 1" wide by 3" long piece of flat metal. Drill two holes in it matching up with the OMP bolt hole location.
Get two real wide washers for the OMP bolts. They're called "fender washers" at the local ACE hardware.
Get some High pressure RED RTV silicone sealant.
Get or make a fresh OMP gasket.
Get longer OMP bolts. They're metric remember...
Gasket goes on first.
Put pleanty of RED RTV on there including some on the hole that goes into front cover that oil comes out of.
Put fuel pump block off plate on.
Put 1/8" wide plate on there.
Put two fender washers on there.
Fill the OMP bolt holes up with RED RTV
Put longer bolts in and tighten it up.
I had to go to such extremes because there's a LOT of oil pressure in that front cover. Tried several simpler methods but they all leaked.
ENJOY!!!!!
Call European Motorworks 1.800.722.8678 and ask for a Type 4 VW fuel pump block off plate. It's bolt holes are exactly the same size and spacing as our OMP! It's general size is extremely similar. I had to mount mine upsidedown if I remember right.
Anyways, buy that fuel pump block off plate. Get 1/8" thick by 1" wide by 3" long piece of flat metal. Drill two holes in it matching up with the OMP bolt hole location.
Get two real wide washers for the OMP bolts. They're called "fender washers" at the local ACE hardware.
Get some High pressure RED RTV silicone sealant.
Get or make a fresh OMP gasket.
Get longer OMP bolts. They're metric remember...
Gasket goes on first.
Put pleanty of RED RTV on there including some on the hole that goes into front cover that oil comes out of.
Put fuel pump block off plate on.
Put 1/8" wide plate on there.
Put two fender washers on there.
Fill the OMP bolt holes up with RED RTV
Put longer bolts in and tighten it up.
I had to go to such extremes because there's a LOT of oil pressure in that front cover. Tried several simpler methods but they all leaked.
ENJOY!!!!!
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