1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Door pod build step by step for an SE

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Old 01-28-07, 03:18 PM
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Door pod build step by step for an SE

This is posted over in the Audio section, but some of you might not take trips there often here it is.

Well after building my last set (I did it before I got the speakers), it was way too big!


So it was time for a rebuild, so I took allot of pics to show how I did it.

My SE had door pockets, so they where taken out. It left me with a recess, so I had to build that up and the the area for the pod.

It is made out of 1/4" masonite.


The next step is to make a speaker ring out of 1/2" MDF. Normally I would make a rabbit all the way around the ring, but since it's quite large I'm skipping this step.
I made 1 3/4" dowels rods to space the ring above the masonite base, hot glue is your friend. This is just to space the ring and will not be structural since the fleece/resin mix will take the weight.



The speaker will be a little recessed beyound the masonite base as you can see in this picture. Thats why I cut a hole in the door panel. The speaker will tuck that much farther back into the door panel now!

The next step is to stretch fleece over the frame. I attached it with hot glue, but you can use staples, since the base is only 1/4" thick the staples would destroy it.


The hot glue is just temporary, as the resin is what will hold it in place when finished.

Since this was not a high pressure area like a sub enclosure, no fiberglass reinforcement was used.

You like my son's cup?

All soaked up!


I did some sanding and did not take pics, as it was boring.

Now it's time to put on some bondo to make it smooth.
First coat:



It's ruff, so I did some sanding. Since it's going to be covered in carpet you could stop after a basic sanding, but since I'm **** about this I did another coat.


Nice and smooth.
I'm waiting for the carpet I ordered so this will have to be an installment.

Let me know if you need more info on the steps.

Oh, note to self: Do not build stuff without the equpment at hand!

John
Old 01-28-07, 03:27 PM
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how much do both weight?
Old 01-28-07, 03:28 PM
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Nice set-up. What are you looking at as far as total cost?

Not including speakers of course.

Edit: If ur crazy enough to put a system like that in your car, I doubt you car about weight at all.

I'm guessing right now a mere 10-15lbs each.
Old 01-28-07, 03:57 PM
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They weigh no more the 5lbs.

Nector, I have my old set cutout for 5 1/4's if you want to buy them.

Remember they only work on power window doors, not crank!
Old 01-28-07, 04:11 PM
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Originally Posted by John64
They weigh no more the 5lbs.

Untill you add the 15lb speaker! Just kidding. Looks good.
Old 01-28-07, 04:30 PM
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I always wondered how to do this. Thanks for the write-up! I'll anxiously await part 2. You do very nice work!

Two questions though. Do I go to a fabric store and just ask for "fleece"? And what exactly is that "resin" you use?

Thanks,

DD
Old 01-29-07, 06:26 AM
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Bad 83, the speaker weighs about a 1 lb.

DublyDurty, you can go to Wally World and just go to the fabric department and ask them for fleece. The resin is fiberglass resin. Its what you put on fiberglass to make it hard. You have to put a hardner in it MEKP, that reacts and makes heat and hardens it.
Old 01-29-07, 08:03 AM
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Nice job man ! KUDOS !
Old 01-29-07, 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by John64
Bad 83, the speaker weighs about a 1 lb.

DublyDurty, you can go to Wally World and just go to the fabric department and ask them for fleece. The resin is fiberglass resin. Its what you put on fiberglass to make it hard. You have to put a hardner in it MEKP, that reacts and makes heat and hardens it.

I just cut up my old fleece sweaters and blankets that I don't use anymore.

Works just as well, and it's free :-p

I've never had good luck with hot glue while doing fiberglass work. The resin gets hot enough to melt the glue while it's setting up, and then my form ends up slightly disfigured because the frame shifte. I've switched to a quick setting epoxy. Works much better for my personal projects!

Setup looks good man!
Old 01-29-07, 10:51 AM
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why don't you guys just use finishing nails instead of glue?
Old 01-29-07, 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by dj55b
why don't you guys just use finishing nails instead of glue?
My experience has been that they split the MDF right from the get-go, or over time will split the MDF. Not all of the molds I make can get away with having the MDF structure weakened like that.

I don't know how you guys use them. Maybe I need to try them again (it's been years since I've tried to use them).
Old 01-29-07, 12:40 PM
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Nice John, you the man!
Old 01-31-07, 07:23 PM
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Heres the final installment:
I received the carpet today, so it was time to finish these up.

Finish sanded and on the doors



Carpeted


Installed



Comparison from the original set I made for the Elemental 6000's
Night and day in the size department.


I said this before, do not make something for the first time without the product in hand!
Old 01-31-07, 08:02 PM
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Wow it's jusr regular fleece. I never would've imagined. I allways thought it was some kind of fiberglass fleece.
Old 02-01-07, 04:06 AM
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Nice write-up

Do you have any pictures with the door closed? I would to see how far in it goes into the compartment. Does it hit you leg when you driving/shifting?
Old 02-01-07, 10:43 AM
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Yep just regular fleece. If you want to make it stronger AKA a sub enclosure you would put 6 or so layers of fiberglass on top to make it strong enough. I also do a layer of fiberglass resin and stuff called cabosol on the inside.

Rx: I'm still getting picture, hopefully today. I have yet to put in the drivers side panel yet. But I got you covered!
Old 02-01-07, 03:49 PM
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Here are the finished pictures:




Plenty of room for my rather large legs. These speakers have large covers because of the cone excursion.
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