So this past week i finally got into the mood of making the 7 a little bit better. I had saw this ignition system last year but never built it (off the site that Jeff20b made). Anyways I made the a bracket for three coils out of galastic and a ignitor bracket out of stainless steel and they fit the coils and ignitors perfect.
Note: I have done a search and whatnot of different words and phrases and I can't seem to find what I need.

The question: Does anyone have a picture of a gutted j109 with the new wires soldered in so that it can be placed on the dizzy and just be for looks instead of having two prongs plugged into the dizzy with wires hanging there. Maybe even just what letters go with which would work eg: "C" to "S" and "B" to "G" or vice versa. Btw I have seen a picture of what im looking for, then again that was a year ago.....

Ill be taking some pictures of the process this weekend and i'll let you guys know how it turned out.

Thanks in advance.

 

Hmm, I remember the thread you are talking about but I spent a while searching for it and cannot find it. Maybe you can PM Jeff20B and he may be able to help you out.

 

Look on the FAQ page & follow the DLIDFIS lnk...


Q. Can I convert to direct fire ignition?
A. Yes, but most do the leading ignition only. There are several methods, there's the ever popular DLIDFIS first pioneered by Jeff20B.


I installed DLIDFIS on my '83 last year. Be happy to answer questions (if I can...)

- David

 

No need for gutted J-109! File down two quick disconnects until they fit snug.

 

The best way to find a picture of a gutted J-109 is to google it and some results shoul pop up and you can find a pic thats how i found a pic. i did the swap two and will be happy to help.

 

You need to move the trailing wires to the leading part of gthe cap.

 

You guys do know they make the appropriate disconnect right?

I recently picked some up at the local canadian tire, but Im sure your southern equivalents should have them.

They are the male connector that matches the females used on the back of the the igniter when you pull it off the dizzy.
They were a perfect fit,took a bit of jamming to go in but thats a good thing, they dont feel like they are gonna wiggle out.

 

You don't want to jamb them in because it spreads the connectors too much. There goes the reverse compatability.

 

well guys I got it done today. It turned out good but the tach isnt working now..... anybody have any ideas? The trailing ignitor is the one that is closest to the alt. right? I'm pretty damn sure that its running better then before, although it still runs a little rough at idle, but the deaccell is good doesnt backfire at all. I'm going to check the timing at the end of the month when i can get my timing light and check it. But as for now, does anyone have any ideas about the tach, cause it does suck not having it, btw it did work before I did the DLIDFIS. Any help is great, thanks. I will try and get some pictures uploaded...... I didnt take too many which kinda sucks but hey I got some.

 

Reduction or ellimination of backfires is a feature of DLIDFIS.

No idea about the tach. You'll know whether trailing is working if you pull off a trailing plug wire and set it near a ground before firing it up. If it sparks, it;s working and the problem is in the wiring somewhere.

 

If you moved and re-wired the trailing coil, you need to reconnect the negative wire that originally went to the trailing coil. This feeds the tach.

 

well guys she works a dream! It was a dead trailing ignitor, frig if i know how i got the tach to work before but man i plugged in a spare j109 and **** does it go like hell. the lower end torque was a big difference, and a hot chicks smooth *** of an idle. Wow thanks alot Jeff20B for the write up, and a thanks to everyone else who gave suggestions. Maybe il post some pics up tonight, its too damn nice out to be sitting inside, id rather be out there messin with the 7.
Peace.

 

Heres some pictures of the setup. I know it looks like a choch job right now, but i wanted to make sure it was going to work and everything else work before I put wire loom and possibly a CPU heat sink underneath the two ignitors, cause damn they get HOT!!. Anyways enjoy. Oh ya, for those who are looking closely, I have changed the plug wires so they are going to the proper plug holes, these pics show them on wrong.

 

That's pretty good.

 

UPDATE!! I did changed the timing like on the yawpower website, and got a K&N air filter too boot. Very nice results with these three mods over-all. E-2700 is the product # for the K&N filter for those that want one and the people at partsource don't have anything that goes back to 1983. Thanks to all those with advise given and to the ideas that yawpower and Jeff20B and whoever else refined these quite easy and inexpensive mods. Thanks again.

Oh ya I just thought of a great idea for a plate for the coils, use that same material that I have there, and make it into a rotor shape and put the two leading closest to the strut and the trailing at the tip. Note to self make this for the project 7........

 

i did the DLIDFS to my 85 and now it's missing and wont idle. i made a new wireing harnis for the leading and uesd the stock for the trailing. from what i read it should be working. did i miss something?? PS. 12a and it was running smooth befor i "improved it".

 

Make sure you have the right plug wires on the proper spark plugs........ I did it when i first got this thing set up, It had block heaters, and they covered up the T and L markings on the castings and me like a dumbass forgot which was which, anyways I put them on backwards and it ran as "worse" as it did before, and it didnt help that my trailing ignitor was fried too.... ever since I bought the car.

Do you have a picture of your set up so far, as in the wiring harness you made? Double check your connections and wiring, and ignitors too. Get back when you can with the results.

 

ok this is where its at, the coils and ignitors are good and its all geting spark i put it back to stock and now it wont start. when it was running w/the dlidfs i could hear what sounded like a lot of air sucking from the back side of the moter. ive checked the vac. lines but havent found a leak, i tride pluging the hole in the air cleaner for the shutter valve but it didint do eney thing.

what hapend to start with; The car was running good untill the fan cluch went bad and it started to over heat. So while puting on my extra fan i thought
its time to UPGRADE so.. i added a FMOC, header, DLIDFS, and cold air intake.

now it wont run and i dont now what to check next.

i'll post pics put i dont now how yet.

 

^^

 

Ok, so your car was overheating..... did it run like crap since then or did you shut it down when you saw it was heating up and put on a new fan. I assume you put the fan on but didn't run the car before doing the ignition upgrade to make sure it was running good before you did the upgrades. Always a good idea to take things for a rip before any installs to make sure how it ran right before you mess with ****.

and now you put it back to stock and it won't run? Did you put the leading ignitor back on the dizzy where its supposed to go. I know that you don't have to do that but it might cut out some variables by stuffing it back on there and plugging in the proper end to it. As for the vacume leak or "sucking" sound as you explained it, is coming from the rear of the engine..... did you remove any hoses that you can think of while you were upgrading? The only thing I can think of is maybe that fat *** hose that goes from the cat to the intake manifold its gotta be a 1/2" pipe but inside of it theres a plate that throttles it down to around 1/8" dia. hole.... you did say that you put a header on so another assumption made by me is that you got rid of the cat..... is this true?

For the cold air intake, did you make your own cap or did you use the original air box and run a hose out front?

To post pics, go to the bottom of the page you want to reply to and click on "go advanced" button and in there you can add pictures... they can't be too big in file size though, so make sure you resize them before you go and insert them and have it say that you have too big of files.