You will probably need to pull that dizzy to get it perfect. I would first clean up as much as possible and put the new points in, and lube the cam. Get it all timed and of it still acts up, I would carefully pull the dizzy with the engine at TDC, clean it, lube it and put it back in.

Thats a nasty looking dizzy.

 

I replaced my points and condensers and it made a huge difference the car revs amazingly again and feels like it has all the power back it. When I turn it on it fired up instantly but after a couple seconds it dies if I pull the choke I can get it to stay alive but it won't idle normally.

Is it my carb idk

Thanks for the help

 

It's either the carb acting weird or a vacuum leak. Will it run at all without the choke after the engine has warmed up entirely?

The choke keeping it running makes it seem like a vacuum leak since you said the carb is all back to how it was. What rpm does it have to be to keep it running?

 

I'm not sure the exact rpm cause my tac is broken after the choke pulls itself in it idles for like two seconds and then dies I can keep it running by pulling the choke or just giving it a bit of gas to keep it alive. I will definitely check for a vacuum leak

 

If you have the rat's nest mess of lines over the engine still. It's probably in there if there is a leak.

You can get it idling as low as you can get it with the choke and use some starting fluid/carb cleaner and spray around vacuum lines and manifold connections a little. If the idle goes up, there's a leak. You have to be careful you're not just spraying it into the carb. That'll raise the idle too.

If there are any vacuum lines that stand out as unreasonably brittle, probably best to replace them anyway.

 

I'll check for leaks but I don't have a rats nest I got rid of it a couple weeks before all this started

I'll check for leaks around the areas I plugged off

 

you might try the idle mixture adjustments again, if the ignition wasn't right, those will change

 

I checked for vacuum leaks and sealed the couple that I found but the thing still won't idle for **** I reset the mixture screw still nothing

Really not sure at this point any other ideas

 

Does it idle any noticeably lower than it did before you fixed the leaks?

 

It really doesn't idle at all I have to pull the choke or it just immediately does

 

I ended up pulling off the carb and replaced some vacuum caps with epoxy this solved my idle problem for the time being thanks for all the help.

a couple days before this i was driving and my fan fell off and put a massive hole in my radiator does any one have any suggestions for a good replacement I've been looking at the aluminum one mazdatrix sells

Thanks

 

PM'd you about Rad Gavin-
Stu A
80GS
AZ

 

I gave you false information. The front most coil should be wired as the trailing coil. The negative post of the front coil should have a yellow wire with a green stripe. This Yellow/green wire feeds the tachometer.