DLIDFIS with 1980 dizzy
01-04-19, 11:22 AM
#26
3D Printed
Thread Starter
Well it's been almost a week and I've messed with a few things so here's the run down.
I checked mechanical advance it's working fine. I also marked my pulley and set total advance to 24L, 16T. Haven't noticed much of a change as it was already fairly close to those specs (other than trailing). I've also installed new plugs - finally - and although they haven't made much of a difference in drivability/power, I would say the idle is a hair smoother.
I think that the smoothing of the power delivery is what makes me 'think' the car is slower. From what I can tell, I can get up to speed in about the same time (although I'm not timing it), and low end responsiveness does seem improved. Oddly though, the 'bump' where the secondaries open (vac) seems to have disappeared and/or shifted earlier in the powerband. Now if I floor it lower down (say below 3-4k), the car jumps a little bit and then goes. Before the swap the car would just accelerate slower and then the vac secondaries would kick on smoothly and then it would take off. I'm thinking that's the main reason it doesn't feel as peppy, although it's still a rather bizarre. Almost seems like the car thinks it's running somewhere vac and mech secondaries - sometimes I can feel them kick on at low rpm's, and other times I can't feel them at all. If anyone has any theories as to what has happened, throw them on out here. It's not really an issue, just an odd side effect of the swap.
On things that has majorly improved though is gas mileage. Around town (which is what the majority of my driving is) I've been getting around 10mpg - yeah, pretty sad. I installed DLIDFIS about halfway through this last tank, and with no changes in drive length or road type, I just got 14mpg as of last night. Last time I got 14mpg was a 60 mile day trip on the highway last summer... That seems like a huge difference considering that I've been gunning it everywhere trying to settle my conscious about the swap
. Can't wait to see what the next tank will be.
Cold starts do seem a little quicker, and now with the new plugs, hot starts are nearly instant. Speaking of plugs, my trailing plugs look normal, although my leading have one quarter of the electrode carbon coated/black. The black area is nearly identical in coverage across the front and read rotor plugs. Unfortunately I do not know what orientation the black quarter was facing inside of the housing, but my first though would be down. Theories? Also consider that even though the '80 ignition normally deactivates trailing part time, I had disabled that feature a while ago allowing both to run full time.
Other things to note:
Well there ya have it. No issues, just confusing side effects.
Thanks everyone for the great advice on the swap.
I checked mechanical advance it's working fine. I also marked my pulley and set total advance to 24L, 16T. Haven't noticed much of a change as it was already fairly close to those specs (other than trailing). I've also installed new plugs - finally - and although they haven't made much of a difference in drivability/power, I would say the idle is a hair smoother.
I think that the smoothing of the power delivery is what makes me 'think' the car is slower. From what I can tell, I can get up to speed in about the same time (although I'm not timing it), and low end responsiveness does seem improved. Oddly though, the 'bump' where the secondaries open (vac) seems to have disappeared and/or shifted earlier in the powerband. Now if I floor it lower down (say below 3-4k), the car jumps a little bit and then goes. Before the swap the car would just accelerate slower and then the vac secondaries would kick on smoothly and then it would take off. I'm thinking that's the main reason it doesn't feel as peppy, although it's still a rather bizarre. Almost seems like the car thinks it's running somewhere vac and mech secondaries - sometimes I can feel them kick on at low rpm's, and other times I can't feel them at all. If anyone has any theories as to what has happened, throw them on out here. It's not really an issue, just an odd side effect of the swap.
On things that has majorly improved though is gas mileage. Around town (which is what the majority of my driving is) I've been getting around 10mpg - yeah, pretty sad. I installed DLIDFIS about halfway through this last tank, and with no changes in drive length or road type, I just got 14mpg as of last night. Last time I got 14mpg was a 60 mile day trip on the highway last summer... That seems like a huge difference considering that I've been gunning it everywhere trying to settle my conscious about the swap
. Can't wait to see what the next tank will be.Cold starts do seem a little quicker, and now with the new plugs, hot starts are nearly instant. Speaking of plugs, my trailing plugs look normal, although my leading have one quarter of the electrode carbon coated/black. The black area is nearly identical in coverage across the front and read rotor plugs. Unfortunately I do not know what orientation the black quarter was facing inside of the housing, but my first though would be down. Theories? Also consider that even though the '80 ignition normally deactivates trailing part time, I had disabled that feature a while ago allowing both to run full time.
Other things to note:
- I verified the plug wires and resistance checks out, so they're staying for the time being.
- Leading coils are MSD Blaster High Vibration units and the trailing coil is stock.
- I am running ported vacuum advance running straight to the second front port on the spacer plate.
- Full smog delete, although I have kept the PCV and related system, and the anti-afterburn valve for the rear rotor (1982, and it's partially disconnected so I really just need to get rid of the rest of it). The carb, intake, airbox, and PCV are from a 1982 car, and the engine is an unknown year FB 12A (aka not SA; thank the PO).
- The car is a 1980 GS that didn't have any 'supporting' mods for the later year engine, thus the emissions delete and intake system swap (the PO did some weird stuff; I did the 'fix it' mods).
Well there ya have it. No issues, just confusing side effects.
Thanks everyone for the great advice on the swap.
01-04-19, 11:59 AM
#27
Waffles - hmmm good
iTrader: (1)
That "jumps a little bit and then goes" may be the vac advance kicking in with the AP squirt along with it. Thats my guess. Sounds like you are slowly appeasing the Rotary Gods and soon it will run as smooth as silk.
08-28-20, 01:39 PM
#28
You mentioned swapping the wires from the pick-up. Did you put a timing light on it to verify any timing changes?
I had my leading J-109 fail, so the timing light told me that leading was dead, and trailing was working.
Then I swapped leading and trailing J-109 and again the timing light told me that leading was now working, and trailing was dead.
Since I now know that both leading and trailing timing is correct, I will now install the DR-100 or LX-301, and recheck with the timing light.
You do not need a special timing light, there are color coded marks for leading in trailing.
I had my leading J-109 fail, so the timing light told me that leading was dead, and trailing was working.
Then I swapped leading and trailing J-109 and again the timing light told me that leading was now working, and trailing was dead.
Since I now know that both leading and trailing timing is correct, I will now install the DR-100 or LX-301, and recheck with the timing light.
You do not need a special timing light, there are color coded marks for leading in trailing.
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