Direct Fire...
Direct Fire...
just got my 2nd jen coil pack and ignitor. what's left in order to convert to direct fire?? i have extra spark plug wires...do i need another coil? and does anyone have a wiring diagram for this..in the other write-ups they dont use this coil pack/ignitor, but everyone said this was the way to do it. 
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Joined: Mar 2003
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From: NY
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just doing what i can with these parts...
You CAN use the 1st Gen ignitor (J-109) to fire the 2nd Gen ignition coil for direct fire on the leading plugs. The process is simple.
Step one:
Look at your stock leading ignition coil (closest to the strut tower). It has "+" and "-" terminals. Run two wires with eyehooks on either end from your stock leading coil to the 2nd Gen coil. Now remove the leading coil to distributor wire.
Step two:
Mount your 2nd Gen coil (when I had it installed, I bolted it to the strut tower). Disconnect the wiring on the "+" and "-" terminals of the 2nd Gen coil and put the new connections on the studs (those wires that you just made in step one). Don't forget to solder the ballast resistor (located beneath the ignitor backing plate) inline with the positive lead.
Step three:
Take your two leading plug wires and connect L1 on the engine to L1 on the coil. Do the same for L2. Now go to the distributor. Pull the trailing wires off and connect them to the leading terminals, i.e., connect "T" to "L", "T1" to "L1" and "T2" to "L2".
Step four:
Put the hood down, get in the car and start 'er up. Go for a test drive and enjoy your new FCDFIS. <----How do ya like that? FCDFIS: FC Direct Fire Ignition System. Made it up myself
Maybe inittab could add this to his FAQ?? I've even got a couple of diagrams from various ignition systems that I've tried that could be scanned or digitized if there is a need. Heck, I could even teach people how to install DLIDFIS in 20 minutes. Anyway, hope it helps.
Step one:
Look at your stock leading ignition coil (closest to the strut tower). It has "+" and "-" terminals. Run two wires with eyehooks on either end from your stock leading coil to the 2nd Gen coil. Now remove the leading coil to distributor wire.
Step two:
Mount your 2nd Gen coil (when I had it installed, I bolted it to the strut tower). Disconnect the wiring on the "+" and "-" terminals of the 2nd Gen coil and put the new connections on the studs (those wires that you just made in step one). Don't forget to solder the ballast resistor (located beneath the ignitor backing plate) inline with the positive lead.
Step three:
Take your two leading plug wires and connect L1 on the engine to L1 on the coil. Do the same for L2. Now go to the distributor. Pull the trailing wires off and connect them to the leading terminals, i.e., connect "T" to "L", "T1" to "L1" and "T2" to "L2".
Step four:
Put the hood down, get in the car and start 'er up. Go for a test drive and enjoy your new FCDFIS. <----How do ya like that? FCDFIS: FC Direct Fire Ignition System. Made it up myself
Maybe inittab could add this to his FAQ?? I've even got a couple of diagrams from various ignition systems that I've tried that could be scanned or digitized if there is a need. Heck, I could even teach people how to install DLIDFIS in 20 minutes. Anyway, hope it helps.
Last edited by 85RX7GS; Nov 8, 2003 at 06:50 PM.
sold the FD...kept the FB
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 1,328
Likes: 1
From: Torrance, CA
Originally posted by 85RX7GS
You CAN use the 1st Gen ignitor (J-109) to fire the 2nd Gen ignition coil for direct fire on the leading plugs. The process is simple.
Step one:
Look at your stock leading ignition coil (closest to the strut tower). It has "+" and "-" terminals. Run two wires with eyehooks on either end from your stock leading coil to the 2nd Gen coil. Now remove the leading coil to distributor wire.
Step two:
Mount your 2nd Gen coil (when I had it installed, I bolted it to the strut tower). Disconnect the wiring on the "+" and "-" terminals of the 2nd Gen coil and put the new connections on the studs (those wires that you just made in step one). Don't forget to solder the ballast resistor (located beneath the ignitor backing plate) inline with the positive lead.
Step three:
Take your two leading plug wires and connect L1 on the engine to L1 on the coil. Do the same for L2. Now go to the distributor. Pull the trailing wires off and connect them to the leading terminals, i.e., connect "T" to "L", "T1" to "L1" and "T2" to "L2".
Step four:
Put the hood down, get in the car and start 'er up. Go for a test drive and enjoy your new FCDFIS. <----How do ya like that? FCDFIS: FC Direct Fire Ignition System. Made it up myself
Maybe inittab could add this to his FAQ?? I've even got a couple of diagrams from various ignition systems that I've tried that could be scanned or digitized if there is a need. Heck, I could even teach people how to install DLIDFIS in 20 minutes. Anyway, hope it helps.
You CAN use the 1st Gen ignitor (J-109) to fire the 2nd Gen ignition coil for direct fire on the leading plugs. The process is simple.
Step one:
Look at your stock leading ignition coil (closest to the strut tower). It has "+" and "-" terminals. Run two wires with eyehooks on either end from your stock leading coil to the 2nd Gen coil. Now remove the leading coil to distributor wire.
Step two:
Mount your 2nd Gen coil (when I had it installed, I bolted it to the strut tower). Disconnect the wiring on the "+" and "-" terminals of the 2nd Gen coil and put the new connections on the studs (those wires that you just made in step one). Don't forget to solder the ballast resistor (located beneath the ignitor backing plate) inline with the positive lead.
Step three:
Take your two leading plug wires and connect L1 on the engine to L1 on the coil. Do the same for L2. Now go to the distributor. Pull the trailing wires off and connect them to the leading terminals, i.e., connect "T" to "L", "T1" to "L1" and "T2" to "L2".
Step four:
Put the hood down, get in the car and start 'er up. Go for a test drive and enjoy your new FCDFIS. <----How do ya like that? FCDFIS: FC Direct Fire Ignition System. Made it up myself
Maybe inittab could add this to his FAQ?? I've even got a couple of diagrams from various ignition systems that I've tried that could be scanned or digitized if there is a need. Heck, I could even teach people how to install DLIDFIS in 20 minutes. Anyway, hope it helps.
ah...ok i looked at the pic from the other guy, he didn't do anything with that wire. what the heck are you talking about soldering? i can't see anything...unless i unscrew that back plate...
Alright, I went and dug out my FCDFIS so I can tell you how I wired in the resistor. You can do it this way or the way I have explained it above, whatever works for you.
Quick and dirty way to wire up FCDFIS
Here's what ya gotta do. Unscrew the four retaining screws on back of the FC ignitor. Then, take your soldering iron and loosen the solder joints (there are a couple). With the joints loose, remove the FC ignitor and feed it to your dog or something....dogs smell anyway
Now, with the ignitor out, you'll have a mess of wires to look at. Coming into the ignitor "holder" assembly, and looking from left to right, there are the following wires: black, pink, and two yellow. What you want to do is solder "black" to "pink" and "yellow" to "yellow". By doing this, you'll have soldered the ballast resistor inline with the positive coil terminal. Now, if you wire the coil exactly as I've described in this post, the yellow wire (on one end of the resistor) goes to the positive terminal on the stock FB coil and the pink wire goes to the negative terminal. Essentially, you're just using the FB coil studs as a junction, so as to "jump" the signal over to the FC coil. It's easy, trust me. A squirrel with an acorn up his nads can do this Just follow the wires from terminal to terminal, double check your wiring and you're good to go.
Quick and dirty way to wire up FCDFIS
Here's what ya gotta do. Unscrew the four retaining screws on back of the FC ignitor. Then, take your soldering iron and loosen the solder joints (there are a couple). With the joints loose, remove the FC ignitor and feed it to your dog or something....dogs smell anyway
Now, with the ignitor out, you'll have a mess of wires to look at. Coming into the ignitor "holder" assembly, and looking from left to right, there are the following wires: black, pink, and two yellow. What you want to do is solder "black" to "pink" and "yellow" to "yellow". By doing this, you'll have soldered the ballast resistor inline with the positive coil terminal. Now, if you wire the coil exactly as I've described in this post, the yellow wire (on one end of the resistor) goes to the positive terminal on the stock FB coil and the pink wire goes to the negative terminal. Essentially, you're just using the FB coil studs as a junction, so as to "jump" the signal over to the FC coil. It's easy, trust me. A squirrel with an acorn up his nads can do this Just follow the wires from terminal to terminal, double check your wiring and you're good to go.
Originally posted by 85RX7GS
Alright, I went and dug out my FCDFIS so I can tell you how I wired in the resistor. You can do it this way or the way I have explained it above, whatever works for you.
Quick and dirty way to wire up FCDFIS
Here's what ya gotta do. Unscrew the four retaining screws on back of the FC ignitor. Then, take your soldering iron and loosen the solder joints (there are a couple). With the joints loose, remove the FC ignitor and feed it to your dog or something....dogs smell anyway Now, with the ignitor out, you'll have a mess of wires to look at. Coming into the ignitor "holder" assembly, and looking from left to right, there are the following wires: black, pink, and two yellow. What you want to do is solder "black" to "pink" and "yellow" to "yellow". By doing this, you'll have soldered the ballast resistor inline with the positive coil terminal. Now, if you wire the coil exactly as I've described in this post, the yellow wire (on one end of the resistor) goes to the positive terminal on the stock FB coil and the pink wire goes to the negative terminal. Essentially, you're just using the FB coil studs as a junction, so as to "jump" the signal over to the FC coil. It's easy, trust me. A squirrel with an acorn up his nads can do this Just follow the wires from terminal to terminal, double
check your wiring and you're good to go.
Alright, I went and dug out my FCDFIS so I can tell you how I wired in the resistor. You can do it this way or the way I have explained it above, whatever works for you.
Quick and dirty way to wire up FCDFIS
Here's what ya gotta do. Unscrew the four retaining screws on back of the FC ignitor. Then, take your soldering iron and loosen the solder joints (there are a couple). With the joints loose, remove the FC ignitor and feed it to your dog or something....dogs smell anyway
Now, with the ignitor out, you'll have a mess of wires to look at. Coming into the ignitor "holder" assembly, and looking from left to right, there are the following wires: black, pink, and two yellow. What you want to do is solder "black" to "pink" and "yellow" to "yellow". By doing this, you'll have soldered the ballast resistor inline with the positive coil terminal. Now, if you wire the coil exactly as I've described in this post, the yellow wire (on one end of the resistor) goes to the positive terminal on the stock FB coil and the pink wire goes to the negative terminal. Essentially, you're just using the FB coil studs as a junction, so as to "jump" the signal over to the FC coil. It's easy, trust me. A squirrel with an acorn up his nads can do this Just follow the wires from terminal to terminal, double check your wiring and you're good to go.
err..to make this even easier..couldn't i just cut these wires? lmao. then use a connector to make these connections...
Glen, it's known as a semi-distributorless igniton system. It still uses the reluctor and magnetic pickup down inside the dizzy, but the cap and rotor are no longer used to 'distribute' the spark on the leading circuit. Trailing is still normal, other than going through the leading part of the cap (better contacts and all that).
I have an MSD 6AL that will be getting an FC leading coil so the CID 400 volts (or whatever it is lol) won't have to split into two seperate coils. It's better to DIS you CID.
Having said that, I do like the FCDFIS idea. It is cheaper, afterall. No bulky red box to buy. I may try it some day. I just don't like the requirement of using a ballast resistor.
Does anyone here know if FCDFIS needs the ballast resistor when using a GM HEI ignitor? Anyone have a spare ignitor to sacrifice?
I have an MSD 6AL that will be getting an FC leading coil so the CID 400 volts (or whatever it is lol) won't have to split into two seperate coils. It's better to DIS you CID.
Having said that, I do like the FCDFIS idea.
It is cheaper, afterall. No bulky red box to buy. I may try it some day. I just don't like the requirement of using a ballast resistor.Does anyone here know if FCDFIS needs the ballast resistor when using a GM HEI ignitor? Anyone have a spare ignitor to sacrifice?
Last edited by Jeff20B; Nov 8, 2003 at 10:38 PM.
why do i even need the stock FB leading coil? it just has 2 wires going to it now...lol, why cant i just yank that sucker out and run the wires directly to my FC coil?
Originally posted by FBDrifter
why do i even need the stock FB leading coil? it just has 2 wires going to it now...lol, why cant i just yank that sucker out and run the wires directly to my FC coil?
why do i even need the stock FB leading coil? it just has 2 wires going to it now...lol, why cant i just yank that sucker out and run the wires directly to my FC coil?
I just thought it would be easier to leave it in it's hole and jump the wires. Always glad to help. Looks very nice.