1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

DCOE flooding

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Old Apr 25, 2006 | 01:49 AM
  #51  
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Okay after an oil change it started with a pull and ran great. after the 3 hour 3500, 2500, and then 2000 rpm breakin I've started the mileage breakin. It was running with water all over the radiator cause I couldn't keep the temps down while breaking it in @3500 rpm. I still cant keep it from over heating. Either it has a bunch of air pockets in the engine and it's just been a bitch getting them out and it should be good. But I have no clue. I'm at a loss again. It runs great and drives great. It starts right up now. Got the Idle down to 1200 RPM. It's 150 miles into the first 500 mile break in period. Fawk I'm at a loss as far as the over heating goes though. It's not smoking at all. and there isn't any moister in the oil. I'm going crazy with this. I need help now cause I'm suck on trying to figure out what's causing the overheating. When it gets hot the temp gague in the top radiator tube goes up first. It stays around 190 on the freeway above 60, but If I slow to below 40 the temp goes up to 210, but the factory gague doesn't move it stays nice and cool like in the pic. WTF!! Then if I 'm stuck in trafic it will just sky rocket up. the temp wi jump to 230-240 and then the stock engine temp will slowly raise up. once it gets half way up I've been just cutting it off pulling over and letting it cool. I hope the waterseal groves weren't too bad. they looked kinda weird, but I didn't think it's be an issue. Could my radiator be clogged from the leak fix I put in it from when the old engine blew the water seal? I was thinking it might, but the engine temp would rise faster then the radiator temp right? WTF! I wish i would've gotten the Wagon. I still might...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vzvWqzj4EkQ

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Old Apr 25, 2006 | 08:29 AM
  #52  
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What fan are you running? If you didn't clean the stop leak from the housings, you may be losing some efficiency there. Do all of the regular checks, oem thermostat, belts, how did the waterpump look, has the radiator been cleaned/cored lately, etc..

I'm suprised you haven't popped a seal yet with the temps you've been running.
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Old Apr 25, 2006 | 12:50 PM
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I'm running a Derale fan that is switched on when the acr starts. Radiator is old as hell. oem thermostat is new and water pump belt is also.
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Old Apr 25, 2006 | 06:09 PM
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From: St Joe MO
Time for a radiator rebuild. Personally, with the extra hp you have, it's time for an upgraded one. Check the radiator cap too, forgot that in my last post.

I'm curious about your aftermarket temp gauge. Where is the sender located? Did you have it in the car, and running before the rebuild and are the current readings of both gauges the same or different than before?

Last edited by trochoid; Apr 25, 2006 at 06:13 PM.
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Old Apr 26, 2006 | 12:49 AM
  #55  
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It's a manual gague located in ther top tube. It's been in there for a year or so. Before it was about 170-180 all the time. under the cap is fine... no oil or film. and there is no water in the oil.
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Old Apr 26, 2006 | 01:00 AM
  #56  
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From: chatsworth,Ca.
Originally Posted by Hyper4mance2k
It's a manual gague located in ther top tube. It's been in there for a year or so. Before it was about 170-180 all the time. under the cap is fine... no oil or film. and there is no water in the oil.
hmm i think i know the problem... do you **** on the first date?!!! lol

try what i suggested? results?

cheesecake!!!!

time for a radiator mangggg......
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Old Apr 26, 2006 | 02:22 AM
  #57  
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thats what i told him rob. he says hes broke as a muddafukka... mmmm i had pepperjack on my ocld cut at subway tonight, it was da ****!
****, adrian when i head back east ill see if i can get some close friends of mine to donate a radiator to the cause. and while we are at it we should swap that s5 water pump out for your obviously working s3 pump.... process of elimination dogg, it works for donald trump and it can work for you too!!!
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Old Apr 26, 2006 | 12:30 PM
  #58  
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No ****. LOL!!! Tomarrow After work I'm going to swap the water pumps and see if that's it. al thought the s3 one makes weird noises and the s5 one is nice and tight.
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Old Apr 26, 2006 | 03:14 PM
  #59  
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So before work I let it warm up to mormal opperating temp and then sit. It did not overheat at all with the hood open. I ran it for about 15-20 minutes with the hood open and radiator cap off. The water was not flowing through the radiator like i was expecting. it looked like a pool the water was just kinda splashing around like waves through it. And it's a really rusty poop brown color. I've flushed it thrice now and it keeps turning that color. But it's not black exhaust color like it was with my old engine.
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Old Apr 26, 2006 | 03:27 PM
  #60  
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From: St Joe MO
The splashing sounds like normal coolant flow, as long as it is moving. Have you flushed it with a commercial engine flush or just water? Sounds like the Stop Leak, or what ever you used is still present, or your radiator is really bad, or both. Try one of the flushing agents and see if it will clean up.

The cleaner the coolant, and the internals, the better heat transfer you will have in the cooling system.
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Old Apr 26, 2006 | 04:05 PM
  #61  
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Just water. What should I buy as a good flush. I've tried the crap at shucks/checker/cargan before and it didn't do shiiiit!
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Old Apr 26, 2006 | 04:20 PM
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From: St Joe MO
It may not have done well because of the sealer, or your system is in that bad of shape. Be sure to follow the directions to the letter.
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Old Apr 28, 2006 | 02:17 AM
  #63  
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Sooooo i think I got it to stop overheating. You don't want to know how. Just know that I think it got it under control... Only thing now is that it starts faster than my old engine when it's cold, but hot start sucks! Sometimes hot start takes 3-4 tries. Huh I'm only 160 miles into the first 500 mile break in. So I think that's the issue.
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