What about testing the battery for charge? jump start the car? other than that, do the above with regards to spark plugs and fuel filter.

 

if it makes a ruring sound that means the battery is low, otherwise it won't be the battery. did you buy this battery at an autparts store and install it urself? or from a shop, cause a shop will charge it usually but the store won't.

 

Can you take a picture of the engine with the air cleaner lid off? Maybe we can spot something....



I would try to pour a little bit of gas down the carb and see if it starts like that.


I know you have a vacume leak. It might be better to get someone to push you about 30mph with another car, and stick it in second gear with the key on and get it to start, then pull over and let it warm up..... high idle is a vacume leak....

 

My car seems to run fine. except for some hesitation/skip at high rpms

 

It is not a battery issue (i can gaurentee that) as it is a new optima redtop and I have a battery charger, the plugs are new ngk's and the wires are new 8.5 mm magnacore, I will take a carb pic with the air cleaner off today, and try the gas/starter fluid in the carb, some time around lunchtime today CST. I will also see if the accel pump squirts gas when I step on the gas. Get back to everyone in about 4 hours.

 

Can you pust start an automatic???
and if you can is it a good idea to do so?

 

i'd first make sure this is in right.

 

Followed FSM instructions. Mine didn't have the yellow paint on it but....

When looking at the pully from the front it was the mark on the right.

pulled the dizzy, alligned mark with indecator on shaft, restabbed...bolted down

is that correct?

 

Forgot about the slush box

Sorry, too bad their isnt a way... Because I have to push start my car, since I dont run it everyday. I have ran it about 5 days in a row before, and it started everytime but after about three days of not being started the damn thing has to be push started.... Stupid rotary... haha...


Sorry I couldnt help.

 

UPDATE!
#1 when I pump the gas gas is squriting into the carb (check)
#2 bought starter fluid and carb cleaner, gave carb a quick clean spray through and used it to clean the plugs which didn't seem wet or bad in any way
#3 battery is charging will test the Starter fluid idea once it is charged.
#4 taking pics, will post momentarily

 

Good. Keep us posted on the progress.

 

My image hosting is not working.

 

 

 

 

 

And with the cap and rotor off and the pulley mark aligned and the dizzy in the center of the adjustment slot one of the teeth on the reluctor (metal 4 tooth thing in center of dizzy shaft) should point right at the center of the forward mag pickup .

 

wow...i realize how huge those pics are...my appologies

 

Well I see one big problem right off the bat. In the last pic, on the left side is your throttle return spring. On the other side of the lever there should be another spring. Look at the last 3 pics on the page. First one is about the dizzy like I mentioned previously, the last 2 are about the spring.
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/266801/4

 

Cap and rotor off (check)
pully mark alinged with indicator (check)

ok now by the "adjustment slot" i assume you are refering to the slot where you bolt the distributor? if so...i am waaaaay off


ok is this the reculator? http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/...p/DSC00186.jpg


All I did was make this allignment http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/...p/DSC00188.jpg

 

Yes, the slot where the hold down bolt goes.

NO you must remove the rotor and metal sheild unerneath it. Look at the pic on my page again.

That alignment is correct.

 

ok well the 1st problem fixed with the throttle now on to the timing later, I am off to the drags with my hubby. will post more after drags thanks alot Carl

 

ok back! fixed the timing ...i think



Is that correct?

 

OK well she started, then stalled, then started again, then stalled....she is getting all the MMO/ATF out

BUT!! my choke is not working propperly....the switch is working ...i.e. it come all the way out and returns when car is off, and stays out when car is on....but it is not moving the choke flap? what should I check for. I did a search but found nothing

 

Ok, so the timing was off. Sounds like you still have a vacuum leak. When you pull the choke cable out, does the arm on the carb move? And when its out can you easily move the choke flap open and closed by hand?