1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Damsel in distress! a.k.a. Woman needs help

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Old Jun 1, 2004 | 09:48 AM
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Unhappy Damsel in distress! a.k.a. Woman needs help

Ok here it goes...

I have an 85 GS "slushbox"

It has always been a pain in the *** to start. (choke it, crank it, and pump the everloving crap out of the gas to coax it into starting). However when it eventually started it ran fine, well fine but at too high of RPM for a normal idle.

I decided to perform the infamous "rats nest removal"
I also traded out my junker walmart battery for an Optima Redtop and replaced both the positive and negative battery cables. And restabbed my distributor

Here is my current problem:

When I attempt to start my car after all this I have yet to be able to sucessfully start it. While cranking it sounds like someone is trying to start a boat, you can hear the motor "firing" and the motor chugging trying to start but no matter what I do...choke, pump the gas etc. I cannot get it started. My coils test fine. And my plugs are new. Where do I start? vaccume leak? fuel delivery issue? SAVE ME!

Any help is appreciated as this is my only car and my means to get to my new job
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Old Jun 1, 2004 | 09:55 AM
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see if you have fuel pressure, are the plugs soaked? could be flooding as a result of sticking needle valves. Your fuel pump could be bad if you have no fuel delivery.
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Old Jun 1, 2004 | 09:59 AM
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Yep, sounds like a carburetor issue. Paging Dr. Sterling or Dr. Carl...
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Old Jun 1, 2004 | 10:08 AM
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Look for vacuum leaks. You may have introduced one when you removed the emissions stuff.

To set yourself at ease about the fuel delivery, do a few things. One: look at the float levels before you try to start the car. They should be roughly 1/2 way on both sides. Two: look inside the venturis, especially the rear. They should not be filled with fuel.

Will the car start if you spray carb cleaner into the intake and then crank it over?

You replaced the battery cables, right? Make sure all connections are clean and tight. I know it's a new battery, but you need good starter speed to get it to fire and start. Does it sound like it's spinning over fast? Does it make a difference if you try to jump start it?
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Old Jun 1, 2004 | 10:08 AM
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I have a fuel pump cutoff switch in place for easy deflooding. I am pretty sure it is the carb as well, or at least a vac. issue. Not sure exactally where to start

I hope to see a "dancing bananna" post here soon .
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Old Jun 1, 2004 | 10:11 AM
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Originally posted by slashdawg00110
Look for vacuum leaks. You may have introduced one when you removed the emissions stuff.

To set yourself at ease about the fuel delivery, do a few things. One: look at the float levels before you try to start the car. They should be roughly 1/2 way on both sides. Two: look inside the venturis, especially the rear. They should not be filled with fuel.

Will the car start if you spray carb cleaner into the intake and then crank it over?

You replaced the battery cables, right? Make sure all connections are clean and tight. I know it's a new battery, but you need good starter speed to get it to fire and start. Does it sound like it's spinning over fast? Does it make a difference if you try to jump start it?
Haven't tried the carb spray, and the floats apear ok, call me stupid , but where on the carb are the venturis located
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Old Jun 1, 2004 | 10:36 AM
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Check the float level in the windows (should be in the middle of the sight glass). Also pull the plugs and see if they are fuel soaked. And 3rd you can look down the carb into the 4 barrels (venturis) and see if the secondaries (bigger pair) have puddled fuel in them. All these are symptoms of flooding. If its not flooding, then its down to ignition or compression.
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Old Jun 1, 2004 | 10:44 AM
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i'm going with fuel delivery problem! you say you have to pump the everloving hell out of the gas pedal, sounds like your not getting enough fuel. test your pump.
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Old Jun 1, 2004 | 10:53 AM
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if your secondaries are filling up, check your float bowl vent selinoid. i messed up mine while removing the rats nest.
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Old Jun 1, 2004 | 11:08 AM
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Originally posted by RotaryRyan
if your secondaries are filling up, check your float bowl vent selinoid. i messed up mine while removing the rats nest.
Exactly. Removing the nest can lead to all sorts of problems. I've run through most of them.
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Old Jun 1, 2004 | 11:10 AM
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Originally posted by FB II
i'm going with fuel delivery problem! you say you have to pump the everloving hell out of the gas pedal, sounds like your not getting enough fuel. test your pump.
I'm betting on a vacuum leak.
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Old Jun 1, 2004 | 11:21 AM
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Originally posted by RotaryRyan
if your secondaries are filling up, check your float bowl vent selinoid. i messed up mine while removing the rats nest.
Ahhhhh yes, forgetting to plug that in will cause BIG problems.
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Old Jun 1, 2004 | 11:32 AM
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I forgot to plug the vent solenoid in. rx7carl knows too because it turned into a 3 week session of PM's to figure out the problem. I don't know how you can test it, but it is possible that the vent solenoid just isn't working if it is plugged in.
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Old Jun 1, 2004 | 11:38 AM
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Test. Key on, engine off. Unplug and plug in. It should make a clicking sound.
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Old Jun 1, 2004 | 11:44 AM
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i dont have the wires for the vent selinoid. i have to leave the little tube next to it open with a breather on it. IS that bad?
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Old Jun 1, 2004 | 11:56 AM
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I've heard of people running without the vent solenoid even on the car. But if there is no power to the vent solenoid it won't open. My guess is that its made so it closes when the car is off to help keep the fuel in the carb, and then opens when the car is started to allow the fuel bowls to adjust to atmospheric pressure when needed. This will help keep the car from flooding while sitting for long periods of time, since the pressure can't change in the fuel bowls without creating a vacuum.

Well, I don't know how much sense that makes, but thats my theory on the vent solenoid.
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Old Jun 1, 2004 | 12:17 PM
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Originally posted by RotaryRyan
i dont have the wires for the vent selinoid. i have to leave the little tube next to it open with a breather on it. IS that bad?
That little tube isint gonna vent the bowls like that. Fix it somehow. Either remove the valve or get 12V + power to it on ign switched ON.
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Old Jun 1, 2004 | 01:02 PM
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What will happen if i leave it like it is?
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Old Jun 1, 2004 | 01:44 PM
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OK here is the update!

Float Levels are about half way full

venturis are not filled.

So am I to assume it is fuel delivery or vac. at this juncture?
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Old Jun 1, 2004 | 02:19 PM
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since no one else has posted the obvious-


FUEL FILTER

are you using NGK plugs (you should be)

Will it start if someone sprays starting fluid down the carb? If so, then it's definitely a fuel delivery issue.

suggest pouring a capful of Marvel Mystery Oil in the carb in each small hole and slowly turn the engine over. Let it sit a few, then try to start it with starting fluid. It SHOULD start. keep it running as long as you can to burn off that MMO. It will clean off the surfaces, lubricate and increase compression.

If none of that works, well, come back and ask for more help.
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Old Jun 1, 2004 | 02:26 PM
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I'm biased. I think it will turn out to be a vacuum leak. But that's what it's been when I had similar problems.

Have you done a simple pump output test? Take the fuel supply line off, put it into a container and let the pump run. The Haynes and factory manuals have the specs for acceptable pump output. But if the float bowls are 1/2 full, I'd guess the pump output is OK.

Look at all the vacuum lines you removed. Did you cap off all the nipples on the carb & manifold that don't still have vac lines? Check the blockoff plates. It's really easy to have one that leaks.

Did you try spraying carb cleaner into the barrels? Not a lot, just enough to make the engine fire.

Do you still have a choke? Is it closing properly? I'm not sure where you are, but I know my car doesn't start at all cold without a choke, even in hot weather.

Last, but not least, make sure the starter is spinning fast. The rotary engines need to spin fast to start. Make sure connections at the starter are nice and clean.
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Old Jun 1, 2004 | 02:44 PM
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Originally posted by Metallic_rock
since no one else has posted the obvious-


FUEL FILTER

are you using NGK plugs (you should be)

Will it start if someone sprays starting fluid down the carb? If so, then it's definitely a fuel delivery issue.

suggest pouring a capful of Marvel Mystery Oil in the carb in each small hole and slowly turn the engine over. Let it sit a few, then try to start it with starting fluid. It SHOULD start. keep it running as long as you can to burn off that MMO. It will clean off the surfaces, lubricate and increase compression.

If none of that works, well, come back and ask for more help.
I'll try this tonight and get back to ya.
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Old Jun 1, 2004 | 07:09 PM
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Originally posted by RotaryRyan
What will happen if i leave it like it is?
It wont run right. It'll flood and run poorly.
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Old Jun 1, 2004 | 07:11 PM
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Originally posted by arrogants_wife
OK here is the update!

Float Levels are about half way full

venturis are not filled.

So am I to assume it is fuel delivery or vac. at this juncture?
Well if the level is fine, then the fuel up to the carb should be ok. Does the accel pump squirt fuel when you step on the gas pedal?
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Old Jun 1, 2004 | 07:12 PM
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I still think you either have a vacuum leak (probably from leaving something uncapped during the rats nest removal) or your re clocking the dizzy is wrong.
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