Damsel in distress! a.k.a. Woman needs help
Ok here it goes...
I have an 85 GS "slushbox"
It has always been a pain in the *** to start. (choke it, crank it, and pump the everloving crap out of the gas to coax it into starting). However when it eventually started it ran fine, well fine but at too high of RPM for a normal idle.
I decided to perform the infamous "rats nest removal"
I also traded out my junker walmart battery for an Optima Redtop and replaced both the positive and negative battery cables. And restabbed my distributor
Here is my current problem:
When I attempt to start my car after all this I have yet to be able to sucessfully start it. While cranking it sounds like someone is trying to start a boat, you can hear the motor "firing" and the motor chugging trying to start but no matter what I do...choke, pump the gas etc. I cannot get it started. My coils test fine. And my plugs are new. Where do I start? vaccume leak? fuel delivery issue? SAVE ME!
Any help is appreciated as this is my only car and my means to get to my new job
I have an 85 GS "slushbox"
It has always been a pain in the *** to start. (choke it, crank it, and pump the everloving crap out of the gas to coax it into starting). However when it eventually started it ran fine, well fine but at too high of RPM for a normal idle.
I decided to perform the infamous "rats nest removal"
I also traded out my junker walmart battery for an Optima Redtop and replaced both the positive and negative battery cables. And restabbed my distributor
Here is my current problem:
When I attempt to start my car after all this I have yet to be able to sucessfully start it. While cranking it sounds like someone is trying to start a boat, you can hear the motor "firing" and the motor chugging trying to start but no matter what I do...choke, pump the gas etc. I cannot get it started. My coils test fine. And my plugs are new. Where do I start? vaccume leak? fuel delivery issue? SAVE ME!
Any help is appreciated as this is my only car and my means to get to my new job
Look for vacuum leaks. You may have introduced one when you removed the emissions stuff.
To set yourself at ease about the fuel delivery, do a few things. One: look at the float levels before you try to start the car. They should be roughly 1/2 way on both sides. Two: look inside the venturis, especially the rear. They should not be filled with fuel.
Will the car start if you spray carb cleaner into the intake and then crank it over?
You replaced the battery cables, right? Make sure all connections are clean and tight. I know it's a new battery, but you need good starter speed to get it to fire and start. Does it sound like it's spinning over fast? Does it make a difference if you try to jump start it?
To set yourself at ease about the fuel delivery, do a few things. One: look at the float levels before you try to start the car. They should be roughly 1/2 way on both sides. Two: look inside the venturis, especially the rear. They should not be filled with fuel.
Will the car start if you spray carb cleaner into the intake and then crank it over?
You replaced the battery cables, right? Make sure all connections are clean and tight. I know it's a new battery, but you need good starter speed to get it to fire and start. Does it sound like it's spinning over fast? Does it make a difference if you try to jump start it?
I have a fuel pump cutoff switch in place for easy deflooding. I am pretty sure it is the carb as well, or at least a vac. issue. Not sure exactally where to start
I hope to see a "dancing bananna" post here soon .
I hope to see a "dancing bananna" post here soon .
Originally posted by slashdawg00110
Look for vacuum leaks. You may have introduced one when you removed the emissions stuff.
To set yourself at ease about the fuel delivery, do a few things. One: look at the float levels before you try to start the car. They should be roughly 1/2 way on both sides. Two: look inside the venturis, especially the rear. They should not be filled with fuel.
Will the car start if you spray carb cleaner into the intake and then crank it over?
You replaced the battery cables, right? Make sure all connections are clean and tight. I know it's a new battery, but you need good starter speed to get it to fire and start. Does it sound like it's spinning over fast? Does it make a difference if you try to jump start it?
Look for vacuum leaks. You may have introduced one when you removed the emissions stuff.
To set yourself at ease about the fuel delivery, do a few things. One: look at the float levels before you try to start the car. They should be roughly 1/2 way on both sides. Two: look inside the venturis, especially the rear. They should not be filled with fuel.
Will the car start if you spray carb cleaner into the intake and then crank it over?
You replaced the battery cables, right? Make sure all connections are clean and tight. I know it's a new battery, but you need good starter speed to get it to fire and start. Does it sound like it's spinning over fast? Does it make a difference if you try to jump start it?
Check the float level in the windows (should be in the middle of the sight glass). Also pull the plugs and see if they are fuel soaked. And 3rd you can look down the carb into the 4 barrels (venturis) and see if the secondaries (bigger pair) have puddled fuel in them. All these are symptoms of flooding. If its not flooding, then its down to ignition or compression.
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Originally posted by RotaryRyan
if your secondaries are filling up, check your float bowl vent selinoid. i messed up mine while removing the rats nest.
if your secondaries are filling up, check your float bowl vent selinoid. i messed up mine while removing the rats nest.
Originally posted by FB II
i'm going with fuel delivery problem!
you say you have to pump the everloving hell out of the gas pedal, sounds like your not getting enough fuel. test your pump.
i'm going with fuel delivery problem!
you say you have to pump the everloving hell out of the gas pedal, sounds like your not getting enough fuel. test your pump.
Originally posted by RotaryRyan
if your secondaries are filling up, check your float bowl vent selinoid. i messed up mine while removing the rats nest.
if your secondaries are filling up, check your float bowl vent selinoid. i messed up mine while removing the rats nest.
I forgot to plug the vent solenoid in. rx7carl knows too because it turned into a 3 week session of PM's to figure out the problem. I don't know how you can test it, but it is possible that the vent solenoid just isn't working if it is plugged in.
I've heard of people running without the vent solenoid even on the car. But if there is no power to the vent solenoid it won't open. My guess is that its made so it closes when the car is off to help keep the fuel in the carb, and then opens when the car is started to allow the fuel bowls to adjust to atmospheric pressure when needed. This will help keep the car from flooding while sitting for long periods of time, since the pressure can't change in the fuel bowls without creating a vacuum.
Well, I don't know how much sense that makes, but thats my theory on the vent solenoid.
Well, I don't know how much sense that makes, but thats my theory on the vent solenoid.
Originally posted by RotaryRyan
i dont have the wires for the vent selinoid. i have to leave the little tube next to it open with a breather on it. IS that bad?
i dont have the wires for the vent selinoid. i have to leave the little tube next to it open with a breather on it. IS that bad?
Fix it somehow. Either remove the valve or get 12V + power to it on ign switched ON.
since no one else has posted the obvious-
FUEL FILTER
are you using NGK plugs (you should be)
Will it start if someone sprays starting fluid down the carb? If so, then it's definitely a fuel delivery issue.
suggest pouring a capful of Marvel Mystery Oil in the carb in each small hole and slowly turn the engine over. Let it sit a few, then try to start it with starting fluid. It SHOULD start. keep it running as long as you can to burn off that MMO. It will clean off the surfaces, lubricate and increase compression.
If none of that works, well, come back and ask for more help.
FUEL FILTER
are you using NGK plugs (you should be)
Will it start if someone sprays starting fluid down the carb? If so, then it's definitely a fuel delivery issue.
suggest pouring a capful of Marvel Mystery Oil in the carb in each small hole and slowly turn the engine over. Let it sit a few, then try to start it with starting fluid. It SHOULD start. keep it running as long as you can to burn off that MMO. It will clean off the surfaces, lubricate and increase compression.
If none of that works, well, come back and ask for more help.
I'm biased. I think it will turn out to be a vacuum leak. But that's what it's been when I had similar problems.
Have you done a simple pump output test? Take the fuel supply line off, put it into a container and let the pump run. The Haynes and factory manuals have the specs for acceptable pump output. But if the float bowls are 1/2 full, I'd guess the pump output is OK.
Look at all the vacuum lines you removed. Did you cap off all the nipples on the carb & manifold that don't still have vac lines? Check the blockoff plates. It's really easy to have one that leaks.
Did you try spraying carb cleaner into the barrels? Not a lot, just enough to make the engine fire.
Do you still have a choke? Is it closing properly? I'm not sure where you are, but I know my car doesn't start at all cold without a choke, even in hot weather.
Last, but not least, make sure the starter is spinning fast. The rotary engines need to spin fast to start. Make sure connections at the starter are nice and clean.
Have you done a simple pump output test? Take the fuel supply line off, put it into a container and let the pump run. The Haynes and factory manuals have the specs for acceptable pump output. But if the float bowls are 1/2 full, I'd guess the pump output is OK.
Look at all the vacuum lines you removed. Did you cap off all the nipples on the carb & manifold that don't still have vac lines? Check the blockoff plates. It's really easy to have one that leaks.
Did you try spraying carb cleaner into the barrels? Not a lot, just enough to make the engine fire.
Do you still have a choke? Is it closing properly? I'm not sure where you are, but I know my car doesn't start at all cold without a choke, even in hot weather.
Last, but not least, make sure the starter is spinning fast. The rotary engines need to spin fast to start. Make sure connections at the starter are nice and clean.
Originally posted by Metallic_rock
since no one else has posted the obvious-
FUEL FILTER
are you using NGK plugs (you should be)
Will it start if someone sprays starting fluid down the carb? If so, then it's definitely a fuel delivery issue.
suggest pouring a capful of Marvel Mystery Oil in the carb in each small hole and slowly turn the engine over. Let it sit a few, then try to start it with starting fluid. It SHOULD start. keep it running as long as you can to burn off that MMO. It will clean off the surfaces, lubricate and increase compression.
If none of that works, well, come back and ask for more help.
since no one else has posted the obvious-
FUEL FILTER
are you using NGK plugs (you should be)
Will it start if someone sprays starting fluid down the carb? If so, then it's definitely a fuel delivery issue.
suggest pouring a capful of Marvel Mystery Oil in the carb in each small hole and slowly turn the engine over. Let it sit a few, then try to start it with starting fluid. It SHOULD start. keep it running as long as you can to burn off that MMO. It will clean off the surfaces, lubricate and increase compression.
If none of that works, well, come back and ask for more help.
Originally posted by arrogants_wife
OK here is the update!
Float Levels are about half way full
venturis are not filled.
So am I to assume it is fuel delivery or vac. at this juncture?
OK here is the update!
Float Levels are about half way full
venturis are not filled.
So am I to assume it is fuel delivery or vac. at this juncture?





