Custom Ignition Switches?? Race Car Guys Help!!
#1
Custom Ignition Switches?? Race Car Guys Help!!
Ok guys, I went to start my car the other day at work, and the starter turned about once and then stopped. I have problems with the battery cables, so I got out and wiggled them, corrected minor problems, etc, but no change. I could turn the key to the on position and everything worked fine, but when turning to the start position nothing would happen, no light dimming nothing. So, then I thought maybe it was just the solenoid, so I just tried keying it back and forth a few times. Next thing I know, I was covered with a shower of springs that had shot out of the back of the ignition switch. The entire switch assembly had broken off the back of the key lock .
Anyway, since the switch was now broken anyway, I just cut the wires off the terminals and hot wired it to get home (its a good thing I just re-wired my harness on my 83 and knew the wire colors from studying the diagrams ). Ive been driving it like that for about a day now, but its rather annoying to get in and have to mess with the wires to get anywhere, not to mention when I get places and park the car then turn the key off and habitually let my foot off the clutch thinking the engine turned off (it of course hasnt), I look like an ***.
So, heres what Im thinking. Since I have no radio and just a big hole in the dash anyway, I want to make a panel to fit there (84-85 interior) and mount some toggle or rocker switches there for the ignition setup. I planned on having like 3 rocker switches and one momentary contact switch, but I dont know what kind to get. Like, I want to make this as cheap as possible, so I want to avoid relays and just get switches to handle the current, but how many amps should I be worried about? Would 16 amp switches be enough? What do you race car guys run? Thanks in advance .
~T.J.
Anyway, since the switch was now broken anyway, I just cut the wires off the terminals and hot wired it to get home (its a good thing I just re-wired my harness on my 83 and knew the wire colors from studying the diagrams ). Ive been driving it like that for about a day now, but its rather annoying to get in and have to mess with the wires to get anywhere, not to mention when I get places and park the car then turn the key off and habitually let my foot off the clutch thinking the engine turned off (it of course hasnt), I look like an ***.
So, heres what Im thinking. Since I have no radio and just a big hole in the dash anyway, I want to make a panel to fit there (84-85 interior) and mount some toggle or rocker switches there for the ignition setup. I planned on having like 3 rocker switches and one momentary contact switch, but I dont know what kind to get. Like, I want to make this as cheap as possible, so I want to avoid relays and just get switches to handle the current, but how many amps should I be worried about? Would 16 amp switches be enough? What do you race car guys run? Thanks in advance .
~T.J.
#3
it WILL run
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Raleigh,MS
Posts: 2,017
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
?
rocker for ign power
and a button for the starter
should work, just see what amperage is going through the switch, and if neccisary use a relay
edit: just get some from wallmart and see if they burn out
rocker for ign power
and a button for the starter
should work, just see what amperage is going through the switch, and if neccisary use a relay
edit: just get some from wallmart and see if they burn out
Last edited by wwilliam54; 12-28-03 at 09:54 PM.
#5
it WILL run
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Raleigh,MS
Posts: 2,017
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by RotorMotorDriver
Well, I was going to use a rocker for the "acc" postion, "on" position one, and "on" position two per the wiring diagram, then the momentary contact for the starter, but I need to know how many amp switches I need .
~T.J.
Well, I was going to use a rocker for the "acc" postion, "on" position one, and "on" position two per the wiring diagram, then the momentary contact for the starter, but I need to know how many amp switches I need .
~T.J.
id just try out some
#6
Rotary Enthusiast
For the quality of switches that it will take to replace ignitiion switch, you are better off buying a used ignition switch off somebody.
Here is the basic setup you would need, 40amp switches at 12vdc.
BTW what do you have against relays?
John
Here is the basic setup you would need, 40amp switches at 12vdc.
BTW what do you have against relays?
John
#7
it WILL run
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Raleigh,MS
Posts: 2,017
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by rhinor61
For the quality of switches that it will take to replace ignitiion switch, you are better off buying a used ignition switch off somebody.
Here is the basic setup you would need, 40amp switches at 12vdc.
BTW what do you have against relays?
John
For the quality of switches that it will take to replace ignitiion switch, you are better off buying a used ignition switch off somebody.
Here is the basic setup you would need, 40amp switches at 12vdc.
BTW what do you have against relays?
John
Trending Topics
#8
I can has a Hemi? Yes...
iTrader: (2)
Originally posted by wwilliam54
where can you get something like that?
where can you get something like that?
TJ, is you're not going to use a key..
You're just going to make it EASIER to steal again.
The switches are cool, in a full blown race car. On the street.... Uncle Ben's.
#9
Rotary Enthusiast
Easier to steal..... A Rx-7 is very easy to steal with key system already in place. It takes a phillips screw driver, a flat screw driver and large pair of slip joint pliers and its gone in 60 seconds. Not that I would ever do anything like that.
Summit racing has everything you need when it comes to switches.
Don't waste your time of money on a cheap *** swtiches, its not worth the problems.
John
Summit racing has everything you need when it comes to switches.
Don't waste your time of money on a cheap *** swtiches, its not worth the problems.
John
#10
Airflow is my life
Originally posted by Directfreak
Appears to be http://www.longacreracing.com
TJ, is you're not going to use a key..
You're just going to make it EASIER to steal again.
The switches are cool, in a full blown race car. On the street.... Uncle Ben's.
Appears to be http://www.longacreracing.com
TJ, is you're not going to use a key..
You're just going to make it EASIER to steal again.
The switches are cool, in a full blown race car. On the street.... Uncle Ben's.
#11
it WILL run
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Raleigh,MS
Posts: 2,017
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by Directfreak
Appears to be http://www.longacreracing.com
TJ, is you're not going to use a key..
You're just going to make it EASIER to steal again.
The switches are cool, in a full blown race car. On the street.... Uncle Ben's.
Appears to be http://www.longacreracing.com
TJ, is you're not going to use a key..
You're just going to make it EASIER to steal again.
The switches are cool, in a full blown race car. On the street.... Uncle Ben's.
i was just curious
#12
You would still need to turn the key to unlock the column, lol.
Meh, I decided to not do it anyway for now, Id rather just **** with the wires and make a point to my Mom that I need a new ******* car. I went out to start it no more than 5 minutes ago and the starter is up to its old tricks again. I found that one post going into the solenoid is loose, so I took the cable off, tightened it up, and then put the cable on, tightening the top nut, but nothing changed. Im so tired of this POS, I WISH someone would steal it.
~T.J.
EDIT: I should print out the wiring diagrams and leave directions how to steal it on the seat.
Meh, I decided to not do it anyway for now, Id rather just **** with the wires and make a point to my Mom that I need a new ******* car. I went out to start it no more than 5 minutes ago and the starter is up to its old tricks again. I found that one post going into the solenoid is loose, so I took the cable off, tightened it up, and then put the cable on, tightening the top nut, but nothing changed. Im so tired of this POS, I WISH someone would steal it.
~T.J.
EDIT: I should print out the wiring diagrams and leave directions how to steal it on the seat.
#14
Can't you just swap the part that houses the switch contacts into your existing keyswitch?
On the RX4 the switch contacts are housed in a little bakelite cylinder that can be seperated from the main keyswitch body, not sure if the 7 is similar, though.
On the RX4 the switch contacts are housed in a little bakelite cylinder that can be seperated from the main keyswitch body, not sure if the 7 is similar, though.
#15
Rotary Enthusiast
]You would still need to turn the key to unlock the column, lol.
No you don't need a key, with the screw driver and the slip joint pliers (used as a hammer) you knock out the bottom of the lock assembly. The steering wheel lock will fall out.
I buy cars from the auto tow yards and they never have keys to them.
You guys make working on cars more difficult than it really is.
John
No you don't need a key, with the screw driver and the slip joint pliers (used as a hammer) you knock out the bottom of the lock assembly. The steering wheel lock will fall out.
I buy cars from the auto tow yards and they never have keys to them.
You guys make working on cars more difficult than it really is.
John
#17
Rotary Enthusiast
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Yokosuka
Posts: 1,058
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I wired up my racecar with a switchbox like that. The starter switch you need can be had from summit and is $9 or so. Unfortunately, I forget the name of it.
Here's some pics of my setup, a bit messy, but it works well. The moroso switchbox I bought was like $40-50. It came with the switches, mounting plate, fuses and fuse holders, instructions, and of course..stickers! You can buy all the stuff seperately for maybe 20-30, and fab your own plate, but I was feeling lazy that day.
Anyways, pics here:
http://home.mindspring.com/~wilkinsjr/
Here's some pics of my setup, a bit messy, but it works well. The moroso switchbox I bought was like $40-50. It came with the switches, mounting plate, fuses and fuse holders, instructions, and of course..stickers! You can buy all the stuff seperately for maybe 20-30, and fab your own plate, but I was feeling lazy that day.
Anyways, pics here:
http://home.mindspring.com/~wilkinsjr/
#18
Rotary Enthusiast
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Yokosuka
Posts: 1,058
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Actually, there is a mod made up for z31s to add a Honda s2000 starter switch. The switch looks cool and can be used in conjunction with your current ignition switch. Ie, it won't function unless the key is turned to IGN. Mounting one of those in the deadspot next to the choke would be cool. I think you can get them for $20 at a honda dealership.
#19
Rotary Enthusiast
I have looked at the s2000 lighted switch set up, actually the cost is closer $30 the ones I have found.
The problem when mounting the push button to the dash is you can not reach it when you have a 4 or 5 point harness on. Like in autox or road racing, just a thought I don't mean to get to far off topic.
John
The problem when mounting the push button to the dash is you can not reach it when you have a 4 or 5 point harness on. Like in autox or road racing, just a thought I don't mean to get to far off topic.
John
#20
Airflow is my life
Originally posted by rhinor61
I have looked at the s2000 lighted switch set up, actually the cost is closer $30 the ones I have found.
The problem when mounting the push button to the dash is you can not reach it when you have a 4 or 5 point harness on. Like in autox or road racing, just a thought I don't mean to get to far off topic.
John
I have looked at the s2000 lighted switch set up, actually the cost is closer $30 the ones I have found.
The problem when mounting the push button to the dash is you can not reach it when you have a 4 or 5 point harness on. Like in autox or road racing, just a thought I don't mean to get to far off topic.
John
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post