1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Covering holes in firewall?

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Old Mar 6, 2003 | 08:53 PM
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Covering holes in firewall?

I have several holes in my firewall from removing various things, any suggestions on good things to cover them over with to keep fumes and heat from entering my cockpit??
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Old Mar 6, 2003 | 10:46 PM
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I used a black caulking from autozone, spatula to flatten it and an aluminum tape (HVACR silver tape) from homedepot. Tape it from the inside of cockpit if possible to keep it clean.
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Old Mar 6, 2003 | 10:53 PM
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not a bad idea
thanks
any other suggestions?
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Old Mar 6, 2003 | 10:56 PM
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Not sure which holes in particular your talking about so this may or may not be feasable, but fiberglass is pretty straightforward to do, and it will fill in the holes in such a way that you could paint over them if you want. I'm making this suggesstion with the assumption that you want a permanant thing done.
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Old Mar 6, 2003 | 11:22 PM
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that actually sounds like an even better idea
and yes permanent
mainly places where a/c went through
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Old Mar 7, 2003 | 12:45 AM
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Fiberglassing would be my choice as well. If you don't plan on putting any of the things you've taken out, make it a solid and permament fix.
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Old Mar 7, 2003 | 08:05 AM
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My mustang had a bunch of big holes when I removed the a/c and heater box. I had a roll of roof flashing laying around. I just used tin snips to cut peices a little bigger than the holes and some good old liquid nails to stick it on. Looks nice from the engine compartment and takes paint well if you want to hide it completely.
I was a little worried about the liquid nails holding up to the heat, but some of it is within 6-10" from the turbine housing on the turbo and it has held up fine.

Later
Randy
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Old Mar 7, 2003 | 08:11 AM
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If your engine is out you can weld them shut and paint over them. It will look like they were never there. This would fall in the waaaay-down-the-road category for me, but something I'd ultimately like to do.
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Old Mar 7, 2003 | 08:24 AM
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shoe goo. can be had at your local walmart in the shoe section. i'v held a car together with the stuff. works good on shoes too.
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Old Mar 7, 2003 | 08:24 AM
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I just filled them al in with fiber glass and smoothed it out and repainted the engine bay, it been that way for a year and no problems yet.

peace
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Old Mar 7, 2003 | 11:03 AM
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I used corks that I bought at the hardware store. Quick, works fine, and provides amusement for people checking out my engine compartment. I also used corks to plug the unused holes in the air filter housing.
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Old Mar 7, 2003 | 11:27 AM
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Corks, eh? That rules, but the fiberglass sounds a little more permanent. This is on my list too, along with plugging the holes in the floor.
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Old Mar 7, 2003 | 12:19 PM
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From: Raymond, ME / New Orleans, LA
great when I pull my motor for repaint I will do that up too
sounde like a plan to fibetrglass it up, no more fumage, I am thinking duct tape for a temporary solution till repaint time in a month or so
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Old Mar 7, 2003 | 03:31 PM
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bubble gum
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Old Mar 7, 2003 | 04:33 PM
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
mazda has rubber plugs for the cars without ac, you can use those for that factory look

mike
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Old Mar 8, 2003 | 12:01 AM
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Does anyone have a write up (or can someone do a write up) for fiberglass? It will help alot of people, me.
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Old Mar 8, 2003 | 01:52 AM
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The Mazda plugs sound good, since I would leave it ready in case you decide to reinstall the A/C before you sell it.

On a similar topic, where can you find plugs for the rear wiper assembly? I think there was an old thread about this.
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Old Mar 8, 2003 | 05:18 AM
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Fibreglassing is really simple. It consists ot three components
1. the glass which is either chopped mat, tape or woven cloth, the latter is what you want
2. the resin which in most cases is polyester
3. the hardner

-Clean up the area where you want to glass, about two inches round the hole
- cut the glass to shape using sharp scissors
- mix the resin and hardner usually 5% but read the instructions, not too much hardner or it goes off too quicly
-brush some of the mixture round the hole as glue and wet out the cloth with the resin, then put in place

The resin mix can be spread out with an ice lolly stick or old brush, you can use acetone to clear up but its expensive. Wet out is when the cloth goes transparent.It will then go hard in about 5 minutes depending on the temperature. It rubs down easily and there is no problem painting.

The whole process is cheap and quick.

Last edited by PaulFitzwarryne; Mar 8, 2003 at 05:21 AM.
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Old Mar 8, 2003 | 07:30 AM
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I put in stainless steel round beveled plugs that are used for electrical industrial apllications. it had a light brushing that I buffed out with a polishing wheel. comes with a rubber gasket.
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Old Mar 8, 2003 | 11:00 AM
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Thanks Paul Fitzwarryne
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Old Mar 8, 2003 | 09:45 PM
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When you use fiberglass its not a bad idea to wear some surgical type gloves, you don't wanna get that **** on your hands. I'm not sure what you guys are planning, but if you plan to use the fiberglass as a "backing" for paint (puting the glass on the inside of the hole) you don't need to worry about making it pretty.
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