gigglesnirt

i was at the autocross yesterday and while there i would take a run let the car sit on the grid and it would just overflow coolant like crazy, eventually i had to miss 3 of my runs because it wouldn't stop leaking, there are no bursts in the rubber pipes its just overflowing out of the overflow bottle, the temperature gauge only read to about halfway maybe 3/4 of the way at the most but that was only once, does anyone know how i can get this to stop happening?

82RXSOARER

blown water seal... mine does the same thing.... shoots a guiser over the top of the hood after driving a few minutes. Thats what i would say, only cause of experience. The only way i know to fix it is to rebuild. sucks bad... someone else may know something different though...

Hades12

With it cold. remove the rad cap, start the engine, look in the hole for bubbles. If you have them then you need a rebuild or an engine.

Mazda12AGS

When mine blew, it would not stop overheating. You could not drive it without it over heating. So I replaced the motor and it hasn't done it since.

RacerX7fb

I stopped the leak in my engine with a ceramic block sealer. It has postponed the rebuild for a couple of years now.

gigglesnirt

well **** i was going to do a few other things but i guess now that the car needs a new motor i'll do it thanks for the help these are pretty much the exact symptons it has.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Before you replace the engine, do some testing. The bubble test first. If you have the champange bubbles on cold start, you can stop there and start shopping for an engine. If you don't have them, service the cooling system. Rad cap, thermostat, check the water pump, fan and belts, new coolant, add some water wetter etc. What was the outdoor temp yesterday? The cooling system may be over taxed due to needed maintnance and hot weather.

nwrotorhead

It happened to me and it did a hard overheat one last time and that was it.

With checking, you can do a compression test (cold) and if the tester comes out with water on it or wet, it's new motor time.

I was able to run mime for about 4 months on commute trips and topping of the rad before each trip. it wouls spill out, but I could finish the trip. The last time it overheated and never would restart after was the one time I didn't top it off before the trip.

TTFN
Rick

gigglesnirt

lol yea the temperature was about 110 so it was a little bad i have no bubbles which is good news i'll drive it around some more in the next few days and see how it does but easily right around now its been the hottest of the season so it could be the problem, i was told to try the water wetter as well from someone at the autocross i guess i'll do it and see what happens.

Mazda12AGS

110 is not even fully heated up yet

justint5387

iTrader: (1)

I think he meant outside temperature

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

As i suspected. I went out this afternoon, heat index was 116, temp 99, and when I started my 2nd gen, the temp needle was off the bottom peg before I turned the key to start. Heat load doesn't come from only the outside temp and engine temp. The heat the car absorbs from the sun and radiant heat from surrounding objects adds to that load. Sitting stationary only makes it worse.

You should be good, but I would still service the cooling system if you are going out to play. Add the water wetter and reduce your coolant to 30% antifreeze, 70% water. Don't forget to go back to 50/50 this winter.

gigglesnirt

yea im going to be replacing a couple things on the cooling system and i do have the coolant replace from regular 50/50 to around 30/70 so far i havent had the problem again and i've been driving just about all afternoon thanks for the help.

Nicholas P.

iTrader: (1)

102Degrees here. so so fun in the afternoon.

82RXSOARER

well, hope to hear that its not shot... that would be a crying shame

nwrotorhead

It happened to me. Do a compression test (cold) and if the tester comes out with water on it or is wet, it's new motor time. Mine did.

What was happening is the seals were bad, so the water would pass into the chamber. With water in the chaber, starting was very hard. Once started, the compression would pass through the seals into the cooling system. You can check this by doing a presser test at radiator. With the compression passing into the cooling system, the pressure would continue to raise until it over headed.

I was able to run me for about 4 months on commute trips and topping of the rad before each trip. it wouls spill out, but I could finish the trip. The last time it overheated and never would restart after was the one time I didn't top it off before the trip.

You could simply replace seals and be good or rebuild/replace engine.

TTFN
Rick

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

Congrats; you just troubleshot a 4-year-old problem post.

Hopefully the OP wasn't waiting all this time...

rwatson5651

iTrader: (5)

Nothing gets by old DD!!!!!!!

It must be those lazer eyes

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

Your fly is open...

snwyvern

While this is bumped... ... I remember reading a water-seal fix thread that involved flushing the system with degreaser then using a very specific brand of stop-leak.

Anyone recall the details or is better with the search function?

Rx-7Doctor

iTrader: (13)

WTH are you bringing up a old thread that you yourself posted in 4 years ago for? <SMH> It just boggles the imagination how we can clutter up our technical section by bringing back dead threads!