1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Coolant in exhaust?

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Old 03-07-08, 01:35 PM
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Coolant in exhaust?

Ok...this is an s4 motor that i bought from a friend. I was pulling off everything and was starting to clean the whole thing.



Then I pull of the exhaust manifold....and see this:



And some in the exhaust port...






Why would there be coolant in the exhaust? Also this motor sat in the car for a year at least....car wasnt being used. (had flats, body damage)
BUT the mechanic my friend bought the FC from (this motor came out of it) said it ran when he used to drive it but he had a few other cars and is more of a nissan person than a mazda person so he let it sit and rot.

Help me out guys...i need to know if this motor is going to be trash so i can start to look for another one.
Old 03-07-08, 01:36 PM
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Also sorry for shitty pics....i had to use a shitty digi i have laying around.
Old 03-07-08, 01:48 PM
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Could it have been leaking down from the intake manifold above it, and seaping in between the block and the manifold gasket?
Old 03-07-08, 01:50 PM
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That is exactly what i am hoping....but could it be something else?
Old 03-07-08, 02:46 PM
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AZ

Afraid it is probably housing seal or housing. I have had people come in that have been driving motors with bad seals for over a year before it finally wouldn't start. They can have seals that are just starting to go and they will show fine bubbles in the coolant. When they run the combustion pressure keeps the coolant from getting into the combustion chamber. When shut down there is still pressure in the cooling system. We all know that pressures want to stabilize. Other factors; if the motor got hot it may be warped. Relieving the pressure on the cooling system helped to buy some time. N/A FC motors were good for ~120k miles here. Turbos- <100k.
One test you might try, suppling compressed air through the plug holes. If you hear air in the cooling system, you have a bad seal or housing. Easy test in car because you have water which will either blow out the radiator or show a rise in water level an some bubbling. Optimum is to run test cold and fully warmed up.
Old 03-07-08, 02:51 PM
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I dont even know if this motor will start yet....i was told it was running when the guy drove the fc but could be bullshit. I just ordered like $550 of parts for this and now im praying this motor will work but looks like im out of luck.
Old 03-07-08, 03:25 PM
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How many miles on it? By the rust on the one fitting and other shots I see it is too similar to many others I have seen.
You can do the compressed air test, takes a bit of a trained ear to tell if the air is going into the cooling system. You could put the water pump housing back on block off all water outlets, fill it with water and do the test. Unfortunately this test only checks the combustion chambers. Doesn't work if the leak is on the exhaust side.
Old 03-07-08, 03:32 PM
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hmm...its got like 90-100k on it i believe....

Compressed air test would be hard to do at my house...we have a few air leaks in the hose so when the compressor is on i wouldnt be able to tell if its a leak in the motor or the leak im hearing form the hose.

This sucks....i wish i could find a good block...thats all i need now...a good block and i will be done.
Old 03-07-08, 03:38 PM
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Try to find a way to fill it with water then. Or you might try blocking all the water holes and suppling the air to the cooling system That would check the whole motor. You could then put a hose into the plug hole and listen.
Old 03-07-08, 03:39 PM
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I will try that either later today if i can get an air hose from my dad or probably just wait until tomorrow.




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