Concerns for a sitting car
#1
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Concerns for a sitting car
I have an opportunity to pick up an '84 for a decent price (I think). The car has 120k miles, and has been sitting about 14 years. I have been told that the car had a new engine put into it before it was parked. It had been parked because a new daily driver had been purchased.
I am told that everything works (worked) when parked. I am also told that it needs: new tires all around and the engine has not been run in years. The body is straight, and the interior is in real good shape.
So what else will need to be done to be driveable? I am assuming a new battery, new fluids throughout, brakes all around, hoses, belts. Possibly struts, spark plugs and wires.
What else should I be considering that will need to be done?
At this point, I also have to assume that the engine/tranny are good. Is there a routine that I need to follow to start an engine after this many years?
Any idea what a good and/or fair price may be for this car?
I am told that everything works (worked) when parked. I am also told that it needs: new tires all around and the engine has not been run in years. The body is straight, and the interior is in real good shape.
So what else will need to be done to be driveable? I am assuming a new battery, new fluids throughout, brakes all around, hoses, belts. Possibly struts, spark plugs and wires.
What else should I be considering that will need to be done?
At this point, I also have to assume that the engine/tranny are good. Is there a routine that I need to follow to start an engine after this many years?
Any idea what a good and/or fair price may be for this car?
#2
Blood, Sweat and Rotors
iTrader: (1)
Spray WD-40 into the spark plug holes and down the carb. Let it sit for 30 minutes. Take the oil filter off and pour oil down the large threaded hole to feed the bearings. And down the smaller hole below it to feed and backfill the oil cooler and oil pump. Then turn it over by hand and keep adding WD-40 until every combustion chamber is lubed. Listen for 3 even puffs per rotor with trailing plug installed and leading out.
It'll need new fuel and the carb sprayed out, plus everything you wrote above esp. battery then try and crank it.
There's a good chance the rotor seals have rusted to the end plates especially if no fogging oil was used to pickle it.
It'll need new fuel and the carb sprayed out, plus everything you wrote above esp. battery then try and crank it.
There's a good chance the rotor seals have rusted to the end plates especially if no fogging oil was used to pickle it.
#3
Old Fart Young at Heart
iTrader: (6)
First place to start is here:
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/1st-gen-rx-7-faq-page-237777/
Since the car has sat for so long and not been started, all fluids will need to be changed FIRST. Just because it had a new engine when parked, that doesn't mean it's new now. Using a poor or a weak mix of coolant can allow the aluminum housings to corrode at the coolant seals, then all you have is a parts car. The entire fuel system will need to be cleaned/flushed and it's a 99% good bet that the carb needs rebuilt.
The other deal killer is rear wheel well rust. Look inside the rear wheel wells and pull the storage bins to inspect them from the inside. Hopefully the car was stored indoors, otherwise expect lots of rust and sun fade.
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/1st-gen-rx-7-faq-page-237777/
Since the car has sat for so long and not been started, all fluids will need to be changed FIRST. Just because it had a new engine when parked, that doesn't mean it's new now. Using a poor or a weak mix of coolant can allow the aluminum housings to corrode at the coolant seals, then all you have is a parts car. The entire fuel system will need to be cleaned/flushed and it's a 99% good bet that the carb needs rebuilt.
The other deal killer is rear wheel well rust. Look inside the rear wheel wells and pull the storage bins to inspect them from the inside. Hopefully the car was stored indoors, otherwise expect lots of rust and sun fade.
#4
I bought an 82 back in November. It was much worse than what you are saying about this one. I gave $300 for it and was glad to give It. The car was fairely rust free, and straight.
#6
Have RX-7, will restore
iTrader: (91)
all the "targa FB" is, is a targa band add on which was part of the IMSA appearance package. its not the RX-7 that's hard to find but the targa band that is. the correct oem targa band says MAZDA on the side, not TARGA 7.
other than the usuals, belts, hoses, fluids, filters, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, your next major hurdle will be the gas tank. by now, the gas will have turned to a varnish and the tank will need to be preofessionally cleaned and your fuel lines will need to be replaced along with a carb rebuild.
other than the usuals, belts, hoses, fluids, filters, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, your next major hurdle will be the gas tank. by now, the gas will have turned to a varnish and the tank will need to be preofessionally cleaned and your fuel lines will need to be replaced along with a carb rebuild.
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#8
It's supposed to do that.
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all the "targa FB" is, is a targa band add on which was part of the IMSA appearance package. its not the RX-7 that's hard to find but the targa band that is. the correct oem targa band says MAZDA on the side, not TARGA 7.
other than the usuals, belts, hoses, fluids, filters, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, your next major hurdle will be the gas tank. by now, the gas will have turned to a varnish and the tank will need to be preofessionally cleaned and your fuel lines will need to be replaced along with a carb rebuild.
other than the usuals, belts, hoses, fluids, filters, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, your next major hurdle will be the gas tank. by now, the gas will have turned to a varnish and the tank will need to be preofessionally cleaned and your fuel lines will need to be replaced along with a carb rebuild.
Thanks, Wyatt
#10
'83 - Bought it New
I am in the process of resurrecting my '83, which sat for 5 years.
The carb was coated in varnish and needed to be rebuilt.
Fuel pump replaced.
Fuel filter replaced.
Plugs and plug wires replaced.
Distrib rotor and wires replaced.
Coils replaced.
Clutch master and slave cylinders replaced.
New battery.
Had about 1/4 tank of old gas and I made (what appears to be) the mistake of just filling with new gas. The car runs but starts missing and losing power after about 15 minutes. I'm going to drain the fuel tank, replace the fuel filter again and see what happens.
The carb was coated in varnish and needed to be rebuilt.
Fuel pump replaced.
Fuel filter replaced.
Plugs and plug wires replaced.
Distrib rotor and wires replaced.
Coils replaced.
Clutch master and slave cylinders replaced.
New battery.
Had about 1/4 tank of old gas and I made (what appears to be) the mistake of just filling with new gas. The car runs but starts missing and losing power after about 15 minutes. I'm going to drain the fuel tank, replace the fuel filter again and see what happens.
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