1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Compression question. "12A"

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Old Feb 1, 2007 | 08:05 AM
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Compression question. "12A"

Last night I was playing around in the Garage and I got my compression tester out. I am wondering what the compression is supposed to be. The Engine is a 1984 with 1979 housings.

"All cranks were on a fully charged battery".
Front Rotor= Number 90
Rear Rotor= Number 75
I don't know compression numbers. I just know the manual gauge said 90 on one and the 75 on the other. Can anyone tell me if thats ok or not? I think its low compression rotors I dont know. I know some guys on here deal with this type of math all the time. I know 50/50 about a Rotary engine from listening but right now I have a feeling I will learn some more..
Thankyou
-nick-
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Old Feb 1, 2007 | 08:52 AM
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It's supposed to be over 100.
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Old Feb 1, 2007 | 08:54 AM
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Did you hold the valve open as you spun it over and look at each of the pulses?

90 is fine, 75 is low but should run Ok for a bit.
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Old Feb 1, 2007 | 08:58 AM
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Yes Hades12 my brother told me to do that. What kind of symptons does low compression give?
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Old Feb 1, 2007 | 10:47 AM
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Hard start and lower power.
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Old Feb 1, 2007 | 11:03 AM
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Don't know if you have done so or not,

But you should try to grab some seafoam, pour some down the carb, turn the engine counterclock wise for about 5/6 turns by hand (you should be able to do this via the main engine pulley). If you have the time, let it sit for half a day in it, then turn it over 180 degrees for the other half of the day and then next day crank it up let it smoke up, and then do another compression test. You should be able to see some gain ... maybe not so much from the front, but more the rear rotor.
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Old Feb 1, 2007 | 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by dj55b
Don't know if you have done so or not,

But you should try to grab some seafoam, pour some down the carb, turn the engine counterclock wise for about 5/6 turns by hand (you should be able to do this via the main engine pulley). If you have the time, let it sit for half a day in it, then turn it over 180 degrees for the other half of the day and then next day crank it up let it smoke up, and then do another compression test. You should be able to see some gain ... maybe not so much from the front, but more the rear rotor.
Not that I'm doubting the "magic sea foam solution" but why the hell would cleaning the carbon out of your housings and rotors give you a higher compression reading? If anything, shouldn't cleaning out the carbon lower the compression ratio? Your eliminating the carbon that is taking up space in your rotors? Just a thought I could be wrong...

If it were me I'd just swap over to some heavier oil. (If you haven't already). I'm at around 92 on the rear and 110 on the front with 40wt rotella. I was about 3 points lower on both readings with 10w30.

Also did you warm the car up completely and hold the throttle body on the carb open completely while you were cranking? (obviously remove the plug wires when doing this).

Good luck.
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Old Feb 1, 2007 | 01:39 PM
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Carbon can cause seals to stick allowing air to leak by which would lower your compression.
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Old Feb 1, 2007 | 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by cletus
Carbon can cause seals to stick allowing air to leak by which would lower your compression.
Ah-hah! Told U I could be wrong... Although if you had a stuck seal I'm doubting you'd get comp numbers anywhere near 70's-90's. Unless it was partially stuck I guess... I find a daily flogging of 7k or so keeps my little 12A carbon free.
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Old Feb 1, 2007 | 03:00 PM
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as cletus said ... its been proven before ... and i had about 7psi increase when i did it on one of my buddies engines ... every little bit helps
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Old Feb 1, 2007 | 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by vxturboxv

Also did you warm the car up completely and hold the throttle body on the carb open completely while you were cranking? (obviously remove the plug wires when doing this).

.
I'm not trying to sound mean or anything but what does warming up the engine have to do with compression.... At the mechanic shop we had to use it all the time for piston engines.
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Old Feb 1, 2007 | 11:03 PM
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If you read the testing proceedure in the FSM, it states that the test is performed on an engine at operating temps, 250 rpm cranking speed, etc. While a warm emgine may not show much of a psi increase, the measurements are taken using certain stard testing proceedures so one can determine the condition of the engine on a comparative basis.
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