Compression question. "12A"
#1
Compression question. "12A"
Last night I was playing around in the Garage and I got my compression tester out. I am wondering what the compression is supposed to be. The Engine is a 1984 with 1979 housings.
"All cranks were on a fully charged battery".
Front Rotor= Number 90
Rear Rotor= Number 75
I don't know compression numbers. I just know the manual gauge said 90 on one and the 75 on the other. Can anyone tell me if thats ok or not? I think its low compression rotors I dont know. I know some guys on here deal with this type of math all the time. I know 50/50 about a Rotary engine from listening but right now I have a feeling I will learn some more..
Thankyou
-nick-
#6
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
iTrader: (2)
Don't know if you have done so or not,
But you should try to grab some seafoam, pour some down the carb, turn the engine counterclock wise for about 5/6 turns by hand (you should be able to do this via the main engine pulley). If you have the time, let it sit for half a day in it, then turn it over 180 degrees for the other half of the day and then next day crank it up let it smoke up, and then do another compression test. You should be able to see some gain ... maybe not so much from the front, but more the rear rotor.
But you should try to grab some seafoam, pour some down the carb, turn the engine counterclock wise for about 5/6 turns by hand (you should be able to do this via the main engine pulley). If you have the time, let it sit for half a day in it, then turn it over 180 degrees for the other half of the day and then next day crank it up let it smoke up, and then do another compression test. You should be able to see some gain ... maybe not so much from the front, but more the rear rotor.
#7
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (2)
Originally Posted by dj55b
Don't know if you have done so or not,
But you should try to grab some seafoam, pour some down the carb, turn the engine counterclock wise for about 5/6 turns by hand (you should be able to do this via the main engine pulley). If you have the time, let it sit for half a day in it, then turn it over 180 degrees for the other half of the day and then next day crank it up let it smoke up, and then do another compression test. You should be able to see some gain ... maybe not so much from the front, but more the rear rotor.
But you should try to grab some seafoam, pour some down the carb, turn the engine counterclock wise for about 5/6 turns by hand (you should be able to do this via the main engine pulley). If you have the time, let it sit for half a day in it, then turn it over 180 degrees for the other half of the day and then next day crank it up let it smoke up, and then do another compression test. You should be able to see some gain ... maybe not so much from the front, but more the rear rotor.
If it were me I'd just swap over to some heavier oil. (If you haven't already). I'm at around 92 on the rear and 110 on the front with 40wt rotella. I was about 3 points lower on both readings with 10w30.
Also did you warm the car up completely and hold the throttle body on the carb open completely while you were cranking? (obviously remove the plug wires when doing this).
Good luck.
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#9
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (2)
Originally Posted by cletus
Carbon can cause seals to stick allowing air to leak by which would lower your compression.
#11
Originally Posted by vxturboxv
Also did you warm the car up completely and hold the throttle body on the carb open completely while you were cranking? (obviously remove the plug wires when doing this).
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#12
Old Fart Young at Heart
iTrader: (6)
If you read the testing proceedure in the FSM, it states that the test is performed on an engine at operating temps, 250 rpm cranking speed, etc. While a warm emgine may not show much of a psi increase, the measurements are taken using certain stard testing proceedures so one can determine the condition of the engine on a comparative basis.
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