coilover thoughts
coilover thoughts
so after doing some research it seems a vast majority of the coil-overs optional to us are weld on applications. that's required to stop them from bouncing around - but how do they seat in the bottom? i can't picture this in my head without them still bouncing around when you hit bumps. since they're adjustable you don't really have anything to weld them to on the bottom? or am I over / under thinking this....
and also if we're weld on application, why not just get cheap 20 dollar honda civic coil-overs and weld those on? same end result correct?
But then there's the issue of the rear end.......I'm not crazy enough to try and man handle some of those in there. thoughts, ideas, questions?
and also if we're weld on application, why not just get cheap 20 dollar honda civic coil-overs and weld those on? same end result correct?
But then there's the issue of the rear end.......I'm not crazy enough to try and man handle some of those in there. thoughts, ideas, questions?
Joined: May 2004
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From: Drifting a Roundabout near you!
it depends on the shocks and ride height you choose, I have never thought of "bouncing" with my coilovers, mine are too stiff for bouncing around I guess.....and I'm not doing any dukes of hazzard jumps that would put me in that situation.:-)
Bottom line is don't worry about bouncing. Just do it and enjoy the ride height.
My installation
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...light=coilover
Bottom line is don't worry about bouncing. Just do it and enjoy the ride height.
My installation
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...light=coilover
I've just been warned by a few friends that if I get the type that sit on the perches it'll bounce around when you hit bumps, because you're relying on gravity to hold all the parts in place.but if you've never had that problem i might just go for it.
I run cheap ebay perches and coils on my cressida. If you loosen all the suspension bushings, wind the perch all the way down, jack the hub/strut up to compress the spring, then re-tighten all the bushing bolts you will never have a problem with non-captive springs. Even with the front end jacked completely off the ground it doesn't unload the springs.
Isaac
Isaac
I will likely get flamed for this, but I used ebay coil over junk up ft in my car, and cut 2007 vw rabbit rear springs in the back. spring rates were right and they were dam near close to the same size of the stockers. rides good handles much better..... and sticks well on the track. need to upgrade stuts up ft, and modify the rear end a bit but its better then stock even with the watts link still.
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any one know what the stock spring rates were for our cars. gl gls and gls-se
The ones I bought to use on my rx7 were cheap ebay jobbies for a civic up to 99 or 01 IIRC (450F 350R I believe). It turned out the cressy needed them more so they went on there instead. The front suspension design between the rx and the cressy is the same.
Isaac
Isaac
stock ones were to compliment, needed a stiffer spring, not a shorter one. I belive the coilovers were for a accord, not sure got them of CL but he got them off ebay. 450 and 350 springs. going to use the 350's might end up swapping to some 275 tho if I can get some on the cheap/
any one know what the stock spring rates were for our cars. gl gls and gls-se
any one know what the stock spring rates were for our cars. gl gls and gls-se
Rear 85
Got this from the Mazdatrix website:
http://www.mazdatrix.com/h4579-85.htm
to keep the springs in place at the perch you can secure them with a metal wrap that is through bolted to the perch at the base of the spring. this retains the spring into the recess at the base wrap of the spring to keep it in the pocket. nothing special, we used 1/8" flat stock, 1/2" wide, wrapped in a U shape and captured the end of the spring at the pocket and bolted to the inside of the perch. Just weld a nut on the inside of the mounting strap, slide it over the spring base, drill a mating hole in the perch and bolt it in place. not really needed, we just did it on the rase car to ensure the spring was always seated after a tire change
to top it off, my springs are shot, too. hence why i wont cut them. Feels like I'm driving a boat. a very small, fast boat........
They have both types, called "street" (non weld) and "race" (weld, but can go much lower).
I went with the race version, and getting the new perches welded only cost me 20 bucks.
I went with the race version, and getting the new perches welded only cost me 20 bucks.
I'm in the process of doing this myself. I'll be using the Re-Speed race kit with Kentetsu spring rates. Only time I've ever heard of any problems is from not welding properly or they get a cheap ebay kit with horrible spring rates and improper shocks. Even with cut springs you will still blow out stock shocks very quickly.
True, that's another thing to consider. I don't think I'd want suspension parts on my car that were produced cheaply enough to allow a resale price that most would consider "amazing". Think safety, if not performance...
to keep the springs in place at the perch you can secure them with a metal wrap that is through bolted to the perch at the base of the spring. this retains the spring into the recess at the base wrap of the spring to keep it in the pocket. nothing special, we used 1/8" flat stock, 1/2" wide, wrapped in a U shape and captured the end of the spring at the pocket and bolted to the inside of the perch. Just weld a nut on the inside of the mounting strap, slide it over the spring base, drill a mating hole in the perch and bolt it in place. not really needed, we just did it on the rase car to ensure the spring was always seated after a tire change
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