1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Clutch skeeps loosing compression and falling to floor

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Old Oct 21, 2021 | 08:43 AM
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Clutch skeeps loosing compression and falling to floor

I already bought a new clutch master cylinder and clutch slave cylinder. Made sure to get new oil as well. Changed everything and everything was good also made sure to bleed it. This is the 2nd time I’ve ordered all these parts and the clutch skeep falling to the floor not enuff to leave me stranded I can still grab the gears but it’s getting annoying. Some one told me to put a shield cause the heat from the beehive might be messing with the oil I put a old license plate in the way it worked a lil. But still falling . Is there any racing fluid or something anything would help thanks.
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Old Oct 21, 2021 | 09:43 AM
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If you are losing fluid then air is likely getting in. But I bet you already checked for leaks.

Did you bench bleed the MC? You really need to do that to get the best action out of it. Before installing the MC, fill it as best you can with fluid exercising the plunger to work it through Cap it off at the outlet and install the MC on the firewall. Attach a new hose ( a normal rubber one is fine for a street car) and bleed fluid into that. We're not yet shooting for perfection, just eliminating as much air as possible. Prefill the SC and attach to the hose. Before attaching the SC to the bell housing, clamp the SC plunger with a simple wood clamp so it does not over-extend and then bleed it there until you get all of the air out of the assembly. Remove the clamp and attach the SC to the bell housing. Check the action and do a final bleed if required.

Also: If this came on progressively, what is the color of the fluid and how long has it been in use? If it's a short time and the fluid is already dark, then that tells me the rubber hose from the MS to SC is deteriorating. That deterioration of the hose also contributes to seal failure in the MS and SC. So if after all of the above the action still is ineffective, you might need to get a new MC/SC/hose and do it again, super clean.

In any case, if the fluid is dark already, flush it out completely. Remove the SC and hose. If you're cheaping out blow out the hose with brake cleaner until it runs clear (but really just get a new hose), flush the SC. Re-assemble as above. You might get lucky and not need a new MC/SC.
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Old Oct 21, 2021 | 08:19 PM
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Thans
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Old Oct 22, 2021 | 03:23 PM
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For what it's worth the same thing happened to me twenty-one years ago if I remeber correctly, the hard line going to my slave cylinder was chaffing against something and developed a leak I couldn't see until I actually replace both the master and slave cylinders.
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Old Oct 24, 2021 | 12:20 AM
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I changed the fluid to dot 5.1 and it tightened right up idk maybe the heat from the beehive was doing something to it . The fluid is kinda dark do.
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Old Oct 24, 2021 | 08:16 AM
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where did you get the mc and sc from?

I've been burned even by the mazda dealer before.
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Old Oct 24, 2021 | 09:02 AM
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If the master cylinder and slave cylinder are new, why is the fluid dark? It should be fresh.
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Old Oct 24, 2021 | 10:34 AM
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I got it from a local shop around the way. Tooo peeweeey my dumass father decided to add hydraulic fluid to the dot 3 long time ago so I think it’s eating the inside of the rubber hose gonna order a stainless one and wash everything out with carb cleaner or order everything all over again the ms is 29 and the cylinder is 14 at racing beat.
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Old Oct 24, 2021 | 12:39 PM
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Use brake cleaner, not carb cleaner, carb cleaner technically is too harsh for brake hydraulics.
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