im installing a light flywheel and clutch in my FB and i forgot wich way the clutch goes in ......the flat side is supposed to face the trnsmission right? and another question ..........How the **** am i supposed brake lose the Big *** bolt that holds the flywheel ? i've tried everything from using a breaker bar to yelling at it and i cant get it off Help please! Thanks

 

Air tools are your friend, just popped one off tonight. then leave the nut on there when breaking the flywheel loose so it won't fall on you.
If you don't have a impact gun you'll need a large breaker bar, several feet long.

 

I just did this last week. Impact gun is the way to go. Your going to have another problem after the nut. The flywheel. your going to need the impact gun for that too. I found a pulley puller in autozone, looks like a long slender H with two bolts (bolts dont thread to the flywheel), had to go behind the counter at advance auto to buy two 100mm 8mm 1.25 thread bolts to work in the puller. You are also going to need a pyramid of washer to spread out the force of the puller to the outside egde of the shaft. set it up on the flywheel tighten it down on the washers then grab the impact gun and go to town on the puller. do it till you think its too far then do it some more. Take a hammer hit the flywheel and it pops off.



Also, I have taken one off without a impact, PITA. you will need a craftsman or better breaker bar. craftsman is good cause if it breaks you can get a new one. The cheap one bent then broke. and a long pipe to put over the breaker bar figure 3 to 4 feet long. Then no impact I wish you good luck on the flywheel.

 

just did this one week ago...

put the 2 1/8" socket with long breaker bar on the nut. get a large crowbar and wrap the hook around the socket , the middle on one of the flywheel studs, and the end on the frame. Stand, push, pull, tie a truck to the breaker bar whatever it takes to loosen the nut. I thought I broke an engine mount but I guess not. Once that's off, you DONT need a puller! Get a 5lb short sledge hammer and hit outside the clutch surface but not on the ring gear (where the clutch press. plate bolts to, its raised from the rest of the flywheel). Hit it 5 GOOD whacks and by then it jumps off the E-shaft!

 

as his endplay settings go to hell in a handbasket from crushing the bearings

kenn

 

tahnks guys i'll try the air impact tomorrow/ What about the clutch? there is a side that sticks out a little more than the other/ wich side faces what? flat engine? and sticking out a little tranny? Thanks Again=) and one more question! can i use the gslse clutch slave cylinder w/ the TII tranny?

 

No ****.

When are are these kids going to realize that you don't beat on the flywheel. It becomes just another reason for a premature engine failure.

Oh well, I guess that will mean more parts cars for us.

 

Most every clutch I have ever seen always has the flatter side towards the flywheel, with the raised side fitting into the pressure plate. This is to keep the springs from contacting the flywheel mounting bolts. Even though the stock flywheel mounts differently on a rotary, I see no reason for the clutch to mount in the opposite way. Lightweight flywheels normally use the counterweight for an auto, and bolt on like most other flywheels, so I assume this would also create a clearance problem for the springs.

 

Thank you Sir

 

So can i use the GslSE slave clutch cylinder on my TII tranny?

 

If the mounting bolts line up, I would think the slave cylinder should work. Most have about the same amount of travel, making the mounting holes and location the limiting factor in usability.

 

Thanks ...........thats what i thoght (the travel beeing too short) and the bolts kinda line up I'll give it a try

 

Hmmmm. Parts

trochoid: only if you promise to ship them to me!


(incidenally its easier to find parts for my FB in the states, then it is here in japan land)

all of them get shipped to austrailia or were crushed long ago. When I ordered this one 4 months from the auction, they told me to bring 5~6K to start, and have another 5K on standby in case the bidding got hot. 8500.00 later I realized they were not kidding me.

Kenn

 

Damn!!

I've never paid more than $680, so far, for a 1st gen. Even bought one for $50 that was driven to my house, course the rust was so bad the control arms were were flapping in the breeze.

I have lots of 1st gen parts, some good, some not. Have no Idea how to ship overseas though.

In my current project, I will have at least 4k in parts and maybe 5 months labor, but it is a full restoration and I don't farm work out.

Sorry for the thread jack.

The shorter end of the clutch splines goes towards the flywheel, be sure to use thread locker on the bolts for the pressure plate.

Scott.

 

I have NEVER heard of anyone screwing up their bearings from this. Almost everyone from washington state just hits it with a hammer. Instructions straight from Atkins Rotary!

 

It's easy to remember if you say the FLat side goes toward the FLywheel. The other side with the PRotrusion goes towards the PRessure PRate, or uh plate.