1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Clean engine

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Old 03-05-05, 06:49 PM
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Clean engine

Got my engine back today from Rotary Resource (Rob White). Real clean. He glass bead blasts it so the metal looks brand new. He painted the waterpump and side housings, got me a new clutch/pressure plate, and machined the flywheel. Now I'm gonna have to clean the engine bay to match the shiny engine. We got the engine back in and mounted, put the starter back on, but that's about it. Should be back together by the end of the week. I hope to take her to the strip before the local rotary meet in May. Don't wanna take her too soon though. Gotta break her in first. If you're in the Tulsa, OK area and need a rebuild I recommend Rob. He's a little hard to get ahold of and the shop is a little hard to find, but he's the best around. As soon as she's broken in I'll have impressions on the new Mikuni setup I have and was installing before all this. Anyways... onto the pictures:




Here's my Holley FPR and guage. The regulator is only supposed to go to 4psi, but when we were checcking the guage it said 4.5psi. Hmmmmmmm.

Old 03-05-05, 09:51 PM
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Looks good Misthael!
Old 03-05-05, 09:55 PM
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Engine looks nice. You should have done the bay while it was out.
Old 03-05-05, 10:25 PM
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mmm looking very nice
Old 03-05-05, 11:17 PM
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its awesome how small the engine looks lol Man i love how rotarys pack such a punch for their size, looks awesome man!
Old 03-05-05, 11:41 PM
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I'll be cleaning the engine bay little by little until the local meet in May. I'm just so lazy. PLus working an average of 40 hours a week on 3rd shift doesn't help much. But the bay definitely doesn't match the engine. Thanks guys.
Old 03-06-05, 02:00 AM
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Looks great! Guess I will be contacting RR in the event I need to rebuild the engine in my 83. With 190K on it, I imagine it will be coming sooner or later. Gotta replace front pads and at least one caliper, as I discovered one front wheel will barely roll when I had it on the lift for an oil change. The 7 must be drivable soon, as I need to change the timing chain in my Nissan truck. 210K on it, guess it's due for something.
Old 03-07-05, 07:16 PM
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Progress Update 03-07-05:

New parts:


  • Spark plugs
  • Coolant Temp Sensor for the guage
  • Chrome split loom for the few wires I am using
Things left to do:
  • Install header
  • Install intake and carb
  • Add oil and coolant
  • Install the battery mount and tray
  • Reattatch the splash pan and hood
  • Get her running
  • Kick my coworker's Integra GS-R ***
Everything is going along smoothly. We didn't do much tonight since I'm waiting for the coolant temp sensor to arrive. Should be tomorrow morning. We might be able to get it all put together tomorrow evening, but I won't drive her until Wednesday maybe even Thursday. I really need to clean her up. Maybe a nice long pressure wash. Chrome split loom is shitty. It flakes off too easily. I'm gonna look for something a little cleaner than split loom. I don't like the ridge look to it. But electrical tape is bad too. I cleaned the battery mount and plastic tray to get rid of hte acid that was eating away at it. I really should get a new mount and tray. The mount is rusted soo bad. I'll try to get pics some day when it's sunny. My digicam doesn't like darkness.

Cheers!
Old 03-08-05, 06:41 PM
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Anybody have a water temperature switch for a 12A? Here's a pic:



It goes near the alternator and screws in right by the thermostat.
Old 03-08-05, 06:50 PM
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i need one of those beauties myself, myn broke off =( Whats its exact function anyhow?
Old 03-08-05, 07:17 PM
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It tells the choke when to pull in. What I did after breaking the 2nd sensor was to join the cables coming out of the yellow cover. That way when I pull the choke handle it stays out and I just have to push it in manually. At least I don't need to use nickels, dimes and quarters to warm up the engine
Old 03-08-05, 07:23 PM
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There are 2 different types. 1 is for the temp gauge, and 1 has something to do with the choke.
Misthael: a good source for a new one would likely be surfside or interparts in Tulsa, both are closed tonight, but try tomorrow. I doubt oreilly or autozone would have one, but it's always possible. NAPA (No Auto Parts Available) may have a listing, but would be higher than the dealer in all probability.
Old 03-09-05, 07:14 AM
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I'll have to check those two places. Thanks Rogue.
Old 03-09-05, 08:15 AM
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NP, glad to try helping a fellow Okie who also has a love of 7's
Sides, I may have a question or 2 soon enough.
Old 03-09-05, 09:22 AM
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I have one of those. No more NIKKI so I have no use for it. PM me.
Old 03-09-05, 09:17 PM
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I don't use a niki either, but I'll probably still be using the choke. Going to check out the local parts stores tomorrow. Wish me luck.
Old 03-10-05, 01:49 PM
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That damn sensor. I'd have to get it fro teh factory. I tink I'll just put it back in. Since it's not connected it should make hte choke want to stay in, which is fine by me. I don't even know if I'll have to use the choke. But my dad is sick now so who knows when I'll get back to working on her. We have to get her up on stands and ****. I guess I'm just lazy.
Old 03-10-05, 01:58 PM
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if any of you really need those,

I'd be happy to send you one for the cost of shipping.

Ihave been converting 12A cars to use the S4 water pumps. so I have piles of stock water pumps with those sensors
Old 03-10-05, 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Misthael
That damn sensor. I'd have to get it fro teh factory. I tink I'll just put it back in. Since it's not connected it should make hte choke want to stay in, which is fine by me. I don't even know if I'll have to use the choke. But my dad is sick now so who knows when I'll get back to working on her. We have to get her up on stands and ****. I guess I'm just lazy.

As I said, you need to join the cables that were going into the sensor. Then the choke will stay out. If you just leave it like that, the choke won't stay out.
Old 03-10-05, 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by cdrad51
As I said, you need to join the cables that were going into the sensor. Then the choke will stay out. If you just leave it like that, the choke won't stay out.
That's waht I did. I put the sensor back in to plug the hole, stripped the wires, twisted them together, and put one of those screw on plastic thingies on the end.
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