OK, this it kinda what I was thinking with the water seals. Instead of just clipping it, route them to new water seal grooves to separate the filled in water jacket from the rest. The only issue I can thing of with this is tension bolt clearance, but it might be possible.

As far as the corner seals catching on the holes..... the side seals don't have a problem with side ports, and the apex seals don't have a problem with pports. Don't the bridges on bridgeports only cover part of the corner seal? I figure as long as the cheese holes are small compared to the corner seal, there wouldn't be any problems.

 

That's the original, as posted by Karis. I just made it visible on the forum with the img tags.

So far, I still want to go with half cheese, half bridge on my GLC engine. The primaries will have holes a little higher up for less overlap so the idle will be a bit more streetable. The bridges will be full length with relieved or notched rotor housings. I'll leave enough aluminum for the water seals, and the bridges themselves will be as thick as practical for longevity. I'll be using a stock flywheel for good burnout capacity. Also, it'll improve drivability over a light steel flywheel. I'd like to go with a GSL-SE unit, since it's the lightest that will fit my rotors and come with a 225mm clutch. I'm thinking 215mm might work better (like Cosmo/RX-4) so if something is going to slip under power, I'd rather have it be the clutch instead of a broken diff. I think SPRT would agree with me on this, hehe. Clutches are quick to swap out.

fatboy, that's what I was thinking too. Maybe you could smooth the curve on a mill or something?

 

Hey Jeff, you think it's easier to drop the box than it is the diff? For me it's the other way around.

 

When will the motor be running Jeff?

 

Those things are known as "drill ports" and they SUCK. they create too much turbulance, and you can never get them to idle right. Mod for Mod, A properly running stock port will get more power.

Seriously, stick to a large street-port, or do a real bridge.
A Real bridgeport has the rotor housings notched as well.

 

What exactly is "notching" and how does it help pros/cons?? ive heard a fair bit about it but dont totally understand it. anyone give me a simple explanaiton?

 

A mild bridge doesn't need notching; the eyebrow is small enough to fit between the bridge and the rotor housing, where the housing and intermediate plate meet. If the bridge extends up to past where the plate and housing meet, the housing has to be notched to allow the extra width of the eyebrow to get into the combustion chamber.

The notch is basically a section of the rotor housing cut at an angle where the extra port is added, to allow maximum flow.