Hey guys.. I can't get my '82 to run.. This thing has probably been sitting for quite a long time.. so I turn the car over it turns over and idle's at about 200 RPM.. When i first got it it idle'd around 2500 RPM.. But now it wont and I didn't touch anythign I sware.. so i've been playing around with the AF screw and idle control screw on the carb but nothing I do seems to make a difference both screwes were all the way out so I turn in the af screw until the engine wanted to die then turned it out 1/4 turn then tried playing with the idle screw but managed to screw it all the way in and it didn't make a **** bit of difference.. what am I doin wrong here?

 

Actually I did one thing... the throttle cable had about 4 inches of slack so I tightened it up a little....

The vacume control and switching solenoids are both broken would that make a difference?

 

Ok got it to idle at 1K but still idle's pretty rought cant seem to smooth it out I think there's a vaccume leak somewhere

 

Vacuum leak sounds likely, and without fixing those two solenoids, it's probably going to be pretty hard to get anything working smoothly.

Brian

 

AHHH! This is frustrating I had it running lastnight just with poor idle and now it won't run again... I start it up and it runs for about 30 seconds and then just dies... whats the dealio?

 

SOunds like a vacuum leak. The starting point for the mix screw is 3 turns out from bottom. If it lopes during idle or wont idle at a reasonably low speed, thats usually a sign of a vacuum leak somewhere.

 

So how would I go about finding this vaccume leak? I replaced both those solenoids and i'm getting the same results the car turns over idles for about 30 seconds and dies... The car seems to last longer when I have the choke out but with the choke out it blows all kinds of white smoke out the tail... hmmm. Oh yeah and it will die even if I have my foot on the gas actually giving it gas seems to kill it faster....

 

Do what you have to do to get it running, have a friend help if you need the choke held, and spray every vacuum line you can find with carb cleaner or starting fluid. You want to move around the hoses kind of slowly, and if you find a spot that causes the idle to spike, that's your leak.

Good luck,
Brian

 

A common culprit is the big hose running from the rear of the intake mani to the anti-afterburn valve. It often splits near the intake mani nipple it fits onto. It's exposed to a lot of heat - maybe that's why it splits so often. I'd check that before I tried anything else.

Is the rat's nest still intact? If so, just spend a few minutes checking every hose. Do the same with any ports that have been capped. If you just start spraying starting fluid or carb cleaner at the rat's nest and think you're hearing a change in idle quality, you'll be left wondering which $%!@ing hose it is in the mess of hoses. Better to check them first without the car running. Less chance of burning your fingers when you try to check how well they're seated on the pipes, too.

If you're planning to keep the emissions intact, just go and get several feet of hose and replace all those little hoses too. 20+ years and they're likely to harden and seal less-well anyway.

HTH

 

thanks... ill try that.. I guess worst case is I push it to mariah motorsports which happens to be only 4 blocks away and is almost all down hill. :P hehe

 

how old is the gas? How long is a long time that it has been sitting? Sometimes it can be a simple thing.

 

I've not a clue how long it has been sitting.. I did have it running for about an hour a few days ago but since then I've had no luck.. now it wont even start.. it just sits there and cranks, plugs are good, wires are good, its getting fuel and im 99% sure it has compression.. it starts to catch but doesn't.... grr

 

Does it turn over fast? You need to get it spinning quickly or it won't start, even with good plugs, wires, cap & rotor. Check the battery connections. Check the connections at the starter. Mine would spin away, fire sometimes, but not start without dumping fuel in the carb. One big thing that welp ed get mine running was cleaning all the electrical connections to the starter. It's pain in the *** to get to the starter, but it was worth it. Spins a whole lot faster now.

Another thing you can try is removing the air horn from the carb. Then you can get to the emulsion tubes and the jets to look at them and clean them.

Make sure your choke is closing off all the way.

The fuel mixture screw should be out 3 turns, at least to start with.

There are lots of 'no start' threads here. Do a search and you may find something you haven't tried. Look for a post from Sterling. His sig has a few links that may help.

Do give up! It took me way over a month to get mine running, but it's a good feeling when it finally works.

 

finally got it running i dunno what the deal was but for some reason it had dumped a ton of fuel in it and the spark plugs were dripping with fuel.. Took em out cleaned em off and it fired up.. Only prob now is when I re-start it I have to crank it a while but atleast it will fire now...

anyone know what the screw on the front of the carb does? hmm

 

Front???? Please be more specific.

 

Hmm. basically directly behind the smog pump you can see it from the passenger side of the car seems to be attached to the throttle...

 

Is this screw on a tab with a spring on the other side of the tab? Is it about 2 inches below the float bowl window?

Can you post a pic?

 

Yup.. exactly that.. and it has some sort of rod that goes along side the smog pump and some sort of switch behind it....

 

bump...

 

AHHHHHH, thats the TPS sensor (as opposed to a TPS report). Its part of the fuel/emissions system control.

 

so what should this be adjusted to? should I even car? hmm.

 

If you have no emissions stuff/ rats nest and all, then no it wont be doing any thing. To adjust it check the Haynes or Shop manual.