i finally found some time to work on the car some more. Well from my last post that i discoverd that the pulley was slipping a bit, i installed a new belt i also managed to install some sort of a fan shroud.
well after the car being on for about 5-10 mins i noticed that the fan clutch locked and was pushing alot of air, so i thought that maybe it would run cooler. I WAS WRONG. i ran the car for about 1 mile on a straight away, and the b***h got up to 200 degrees. the most it got to was about 205 sitting at a light. but no higher.

so now im asking, since i have a gutted thermostat, should i remove it and try a regular thermostat. someone told me i should mount a 160 deg t-stat off a chevy s-10. but then someone said i should go to mazda and get one. or should i just leave the gutted one and try something else.

right now i am bypassing the oil cooler cause its cracked, does the oil cooler make that much of a difference in the engine temp?

could it be the sparkplugs? i am using ngk's br9erix.

 

Its not clear if you have an 13b or 12a but holey crap repair your oilcooler! I dont see how the 12a beehive coolers can actually cool that much but they obviously put them on for a reason. Dont kill your engine for a few bucks worth of parts at a junkyard..

 

i would say so. put a cooler on that thing man! I saved an SE from a local who had bypassed the oil cooler. temps were at the half way mark on the stock gauge. I put my spare front mount on and now it barely goes past the Cold marks.

 

I would say oil cooler for sure....!

From what I understand, oil does somthing like 30% of the cooling in the car...

 

You've answered your own question. By passing the oil cooler on a rotary is the kiss of death. The oil is actually circulated around inside each rotor as part of the colling system. This keeps the rotors from meting down. Get a coller on it asap, its a lot cheaper than a rebuild.

 

The oil cooler is there, its just cracked so i had to by-pass it for now. but will the oil cooler bring down the temp the 20deg it needs to come down?

also i noticed alot of heat from the headers, does anyone wrap there headers? or should i mount a heat shield?

 

I reccomend a ceramic coating on headers instead of wrap...

As fo the ammount of cooling the oil provides, that has already been aswered several times.
YES the oil cooler is THAT important. There is no point in even looking into other possible problems until AFTER you get that fixed.

 

Just to show you the importance of the oil cooler, I had a coolant line to the OC blow out on me on the road. I picked up some standard hose and rigged it up enough to get me home, but the hose was kinked, so the flow was not very good. All the way home I had to keep shutting her down to let her cool off. Problem was fixed once I got a better hose in there to restore the flow. I read that the oil cooler contributes something like 30-40% of engine cooling. Get if fixed before you drive it again or I will be forced to beat you into compliance!

 

I haven't read part 1, but 2 things that majorly effect cooling are -

Is the belly pan on the car?

Do you have the black plastic air deflector in the bumper opening?

And yes the oil cooler does seriously effect cooling if it's bypassed

 

Those are some good points, but personally I don't believe that either of them have a noticeable effect on cooling. I have had neither on my car for almost one year, and my car runs nice and cool without them. FIX YOUR OIL COOLER!

 

Kentetsu
easy.... easy.... there. lol lol.
i took it off last night and its getting weld today. hopefully i'll install it later today.
the funny thing is that i asked a couple of people and they said that i could by-pass it and it wouldnt make that much of a difference. "MY FAULT"....

maybe now i can go back to the electric fans, instead of this manual fan that sounds like a plane coming by.
i saw a couple mr2's at the junkyard i'll stop by today and take the fans off. is there anything else i'll need of the mr2 besides the fan's?

 

you need fog lights relay and a toggle switch. the cheap way.

 

Those people who gave you advise don't know the first thing about rotaries, they run hotter than piston engines, that's why the oil cooler is there in the first place. The Mazda oil cooler that sits below the radiator is much better than the later beehive oil cooler, so look out for one.

 

I gotta call you on that.
Had my -SE with a stock fan, ported, intake/exhasut probably about 160hp at the flywheel.

Pulled the nasty rusty belly pan off and never overheated... hell neve even got up to the halfway point unless it was 30C+ outside...


Yup! Or buy a thermo switch for the expensive way...

 

TOYOROTOR- Glad to hear you're getting that cooler fixed. Here is a link to more information than you will ever need on E-Fan installation, including the MR2 fan. Autozone has an adjustable fan controller that sells for 18 bucks and does a decent job. Don't even bother trying to run your fan off a switch, you will eventually forget to turn it on and will fry your engine. https://www.rx7club.com//showthread.php?t=446340