Cant get caliper off on front
#1
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Cant get caliper off on front
i found this... https://www.rx7club.com/1st-gen-archive-71/brakes-how-front-brakes-520508/ , but i cant get the bolt off that holds the peice connected to the tierod. im running out of ideas, i hit it, heated it liquid rench/wd40. what should i do????????????
#2
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You don't NEED to move the tie rod to get at that bolt. thou that bolt is a pain to get at. I took my grinder to the bracket to make room for a wrench. Ill see if I can find a picture.
Here we go. See the notch cut in it?
Here we go. See the notch cut in it?
#3
djessence
I think I know what you are talking about.
It is a PITA to get out. You need to find a thin box wrench, wedge the closed end on and the apply pressure on it with a thick screw driver so it doesnt slip off. The procedure is in the Haynes manual, but I dont have it handy.
I think thats what you are talking about.
It is a PITA to get out. You need to find a thin box wrench, wedge the closed end on and the apply pressure on it with a thick screw driver so it doesnt slip off. The procedure is in the Haynes manual, but I dont have it handy.
I think thats what you are talking about.
#7
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Cutting out that plate will weaken the mount, right where it takes a lot of torque from braking. Might work, but might also lead to catastrophic failure during emergency braking.
A better way is to use the wedged screwdriver method (I thought I invented that, but I guess I just invented it independently of the Haines manual).
Probably an even better way, explained to me by RX-7 buddy Mike this weekend, is to take out the bolt that ties down the strut tower and loosen the other one underneath. Then you can rotate the strut tower to get easy access to the bolt that fastens the front caliper.
A better way is to use the wedged screwdriver method (I thought I invented that, but I guess I just invented it independently of the Haines manual).
Probably an even better way, explained to me by RX-7 buddy Mike this weekend, is to take out the bolt that ties down the strut tower and loosen the other one underneath. Then you can rotate the strut tower to get easy access to the bolt that fastens the front caliper.
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#8
One Luv "Till The End"
iTrader: (33)
I think I know what you are talking about.
It is a PITA to get out. You need to find a thin box wrench, wedge the closed end on and the apply pressure on it with a thick screw driver so it doesnt slip off. The procedure is in the Haynes manual, but I dont have it handy.
I think thats what you are talking about.
It is a PITA to get out. You need to find a thin box wrench, wedge the closed end on and the apply pressure on it with a thick screw driver so it doesnt slip off. The procedure is in the Haynes manual, but I dont have it handy.
I think thats what you are talking about.
+1
Cutting out that plate will weaken the mount, right where it takes a lot of torque from braking. Might work, but might also lead to catastrophic failure during emergency braking.
A better way is to use the wedged screwdriver method (I thought I invented that, but I guess I just invented it independently of the Haines manual).
Probably an even better way, explained to me by RX-7 buddy Mike this weekend, is to take out the bolt that ties down the strut tower and loosen the other one underneath. Then you can rotate the strut tower to get easy access to the bolt that fastens the front caliper.
A better way is to use the wedged screwdriver method (I thought I invented that, but I guess I just invented it independently of the Haines manual).
Probably an even better way, explained to me by RX-7 buddy Mike this weekend, is to take out the bolt that ties down the strut tower and loosen the other one underneath. Then you can rotate the strut tower to get easy access to the bolt that fastens the front caliper.
Yup he is so correct cutting out structual support from the rear braking system can weaken the over all function and life of the part...I wish the best but in my opinion you are better off getting the correct tool, or trying the trick out...even though it's a little too late already, but you should be fine...
#9
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It's the front brake not the rear. The front are under more pressure than the rear though. I highly doubt that anything bad will result from this little "modification"
Yes, I'm sure the bracket is slightly "weaker", but it's still plenty strong. There's still plenty of steel there. The tensile strength of the steel exceeds the force from the brakes transfered to that bolt.
Yes, I'm sure the bracket is slightly "weaker", but it's still plenty strong. There's still plenty of steel there. The tensile strength of the steel exceeds the force from the brakes transfered to that bolt.
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