so a few weeks ago when i was changing a break caliper because one of the pins broke, and doing some other things (cough cough cutting the springs). i had the strut assembly completely out of the car. ive now read that when putting the strut back into the strut tower it should go in just like it came out... if the top of the strut is turned one way or the other does it change camber? and is there any way to know which way faces front when it goes into the 4 holes in the strut tower?

 

Rotating the upper strut mount will change caster and camber slightly. If you look down on the top of the strut assembly, you will notice that the mount is offset a little. I have always installed mine so the offset is as far rearward and inboard as possible in order to maximize positive caster and negative camber.

 

thanks.. ill take a look at that tomorrow. i noticed since i lowered it, it pulls slightly to the right and the steering wheel is off. maybe this is the problem for the slight pull but i know i need an alignment also...

 

Other than dropping the struts and turning the tops, there is no way to correct a "pull" during an alignment on the fb. If you take it to a shop they will most likely just straighten the steering wheel by adjusting the toe. A difference in camber or caster of 1/2 a degree or more can cause a pull but toe in or out will not.

 

+1

 

ya i know that theres no way to adjust the camber without camber plates when doing an alignment. i think the pulling and steering wheel being off after lowering the car is a result from it either being towed in or out after the car was dropped. im basically sitting on the bumpstops so that tells u how far it was lowered. same principal if you put a 6 inch suspension lift on your truck your alignment will be wayyyy off and steering wheel will be off as well until its straightened. my main concern was the top of the strut being in the correct orientation in the 4 holes in the strut tower. ill check it out tomorrow and rotate them if needed.

 

The FSM shows how to orient the strut tops for alignment. There's a triangle in the rubber on the top of the mounting plate. You'll need to look hard, the triangles aren't easy to find sometimes. Which direction it points to determines which setting for camber/caster. Section 10A, pages 13/14 of the 85 FSM. The adjustment is very limited and won't come close to compensating for cut springs.

 

FSM meaning a chiltons or haynes manual? and i knew it wouldnt compensate for cut springs. i just want it back in the original position it was in before i took it apart. because i didnt know there was a certain way it went. figured it was just centered in the middle.... but also in looking at the tire from all angles the camber doesnt seem to be off at all. same as it was before lowering the car... with this said i am getting camber plates in the near future when i get my respeed coilovers... these cut springs were only temporary and a product of boredom since the car isnt my daily

 

FSM>Factory Service Manual. Link to download a copy is in the FAQs.

 

Huh? Having one wheel turned out too far (too much toe out on one side, or toe in on one side) will definitely result in pulling. An equal amount of toe on each side might not result in pulling, but unequal amounts certainly will.

After installation of new springs a few years ago I had extreme pulling, which was corrected with adjustment of nothing but the tie rods.

Camber or caster could also result in pulling, but it is not limited to only those items.




.

 

There are several ways to adjust pull, some with factory parts, others with aftermarket parts. The widebody not only has Billy's camber plates but I managed to find MazdaComps adjustable LCAs and tension/strut rods. When I took the car in for an alignment, the camber plates were adjusted all the way out but the tech couldn't get any less than +3* of camber. Discovered the LCAs were adjusted almost all the way out.

 

ya like i said i know the pulling and off center steering wheel is more a product of lowering the car due to different angles on the tie rods and all. ive checked it and its slightly toed out and will adjust that this week. didnt get a chance to look at the top of my strut today to find that little arrow that was spoken of to see if i put it back in turned one direction or the other. also mazdatrix has some adjustable lower control arms that i saw. ill be ordering those when i get my respeed coilovers and tokicos soon

 

I was trying to find a price for the MazdaComp adjustable LCAs with no luck. Apparently they've changed their name. Racing Beat does have them. Pricey little buggers a 425 a pair. Did not find them at MazdaTrix. The design is quite different than MazdaComp's, much easier to adjust.

 

ya i noticed they cost a pretty penny. more than i figured they would...

 

You might want to consider camber plates, rather than adjustable control arms. Much more user friendly for adjustments, and they won't significantly affect the toe settings when you do adjust them.

With the adjustable LCAs, once you get the car up in the air and make the adjustment, then you have to reset the alignement as well. With camber plates, no need to lift the car, and no need to re-align afterwards.

 

Not really, this will only result in tire wear and an off center steering wheel. The steering centers it self when moving so you will always have equal toe while driving straight ahead.

If, with the steering wheel pointed straight, the left front is toed out .05 degrees and the right front is toed out .25 degrees your total toe is -.30 degrees. When driving down the road straight each side will be toed out .15 degrees and the steering wheel will be off to the left. You will wear out the inside edge of both tires. If you hold the steering wheel straight it will drive to the right but if you let go it will drive straight as an arrow.


On an unrelated note, you used to have some Diamond Racing wheels. I don't remember if they were 13x8 or not. If they were 8" do you remember what the offset was? I'm going to buy a set over the winter.

 

Ya mine are 13x8 that are still on the car. I haven't mounted my new wheels up yet. They had a little bit of surface rust but I cleaned them up and painted then flat black. Looks decent but I always cover them in tire foam. Looking back I should have painted them satin black like the wheels I just finished or gloss black like they were originally. And I think mine are 0 offset. they stick out pretty far but with 205/60 tires I rolled my fenders ever so slightly and they don't rub. Btw my car is slammed on the bumpstops. At normal height I had plenty of room and never rubbed. Could easily fit 225 or 235 width tires on the back

 

I can try to post pics of how much room I have and how close they are to the fenders tomorrow or the next day?

 

It's not a big deal, I'm just trying to get some idea before I order the wheels.