cal. smog
12-14-06, 07:08 PM
#1
dxmoney
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cal. smog
i just went to smog and did bad .results hc was at 667 max 148 the co was 3.04 max .89 the no was at 185 max 1191 thats not to bad what can i do to bring the other two numbers down 
12-14-06, 08:42 PM
#4
Originally Posted by lupin
block off your emissions and run a corvette airpump off a switch with a straightpipe that goes to the cat.
Kashe;
The things that you need to make sure are in working order or in good shape are the following.
1). Oil should not be in need of a change.
2). Dist cap, rotor, ignition wires and especially plugs need to be in good working order.
3). Air filter is clean
4). Timing is set to specs
5). No vacuum leaks
6). Catalytic converter must be in good working order
7). The given. All emission control devices must be operational. Especially the ACV and the Air exhaust check valve must not be defective. Meaning that it should only be allowing air to go to the converter and not allowing exhaust to return to the manifold.
Criteria right before going in for your appointment.
Take the car out for a good drive on the freeway for about 20-30 minutes to get the engine up to full operating temp.
Show up a few minutes before your appointment and do not shut the motor off.
You want that cat to be very hot so that it will continue to light off the Hc's.
If you have a F.I. vehicle then there are other considerations.
12-15-06, 07:40 PM
#6
Originally Posted by kashe
how do you know if the cats are burned out
If the emission system is operating correctly and air is being introduced properly by the ACV and Air exhaust check valve. Then the temp exiting right out the cat should be much hotter than the entry point.
12-15-06, 10:12 PM
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I am a certified emissions tester and repair person if that means anything I'd be glad to help you or anyone here pass. Obviously, you must have emissions devices on the vehicle in order to pass, especially in CAL due to their strict California Air Research Board (CARB) guidelines they have mandated. The air pump pumps air into the exhaust stream for the catalytic converter. Oxygen is needed for the catalyst to oxidize. O2 and CO combine to form C02, an effifiency indicator number we use. There is Irohdium (sp) in the cat, which is a stripper.
To test the cat you measure the inlet temperature and the outlet temperature. The outlet temp should be roughly 200 farenheight hotter than the inlet if the cat is doing its job.
HC's = Hydrocarbons; raw fuel. CO is partially burned fuel. If you have your o2 readings that will definantly help. From there I can tell you if its unmetered air, density misfire, running rich, etc and direct you to a fix. I will tell you though, especially in CALI, AIR injection will help. It as I said provides oxygen to the oxhaust stream in order to help the oxidation properties of the cat. Hope I could help, as you guys are helpful with the rotary.
-Ray
To test the cat you measure the inlet temperature and the outlet temperature. The outlet temp should be roughly 200 farenheight hotter than the inlet if the cat is doing its job.
HC's = Hydrocarbons; raw fuel. CO is partially burned fuel. If you have your o2 readings that will definantly help. From there I can tell you if its unmetered air, density misfire, running rich, etc and direct you to a fix. I will tell you though, especially in CALI, AIR injection will help. It as I said provides oxygen to the oxhaust stream in order to help the oxidation properties of the cat. Hope I could help, as you guys are helpful with the rotary.
-Ray
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12-15-06, 10:33 PM
#9
FB+FC=F-ME
Secondary air is most especially important for rotaries, which emit a large amount of HC,and leave very little oxygen in their exhaust stream.There hasent been a rotary made(that Im aware of) that didnt have a smog/air pump.
Your high CO and low NoX tells me that you are running quite rich.A rich mix is cooler,and naturally lowers the Nox.....although rotaries usually have relatively low Nox due to their low compression and rich nature.It could be that cat(s),but the very high CO points more towards a rich running carb,or a very weak ignition system.Possibly the trailing ignition isnt working,or your in desperate need of a tuneup.....both are common on 1st gens,with they troublesome ignitors and a tendancy to eat sparkplugs.
Rotaries are also known to be very hard on cats,but since they can be quite expensive(especially for a rotary specific unit,made to take the heat).....its better to concentrate on the items that Doc mentioned.They are cheaper to adress,will definately make a difference,and are a good idea,even if its not smog time.
BTW,the electric Corvette airpump deal is a poor excuse for a cob-job attempt to clear a less strictly enforced smog test in other parts of the country......that will not fly in CA,so dont waste your time.In CA,its all or nothing.....if you live in a smog controlled area,then all your smog gear needs to be intact and working or you wont pass.If your in the non-regulated county areas,then you can strip it all off, if you please.
Your high CO and low NoX tells me that you are running quite rich.A rich mix is cooler,and naturally lowers the Nox.....although rotaries usually have relatively low Nox due to their low compression and rich nature.It could be that cat(s),but the very high CO points more towards a rich running carb,or a very weak ignition system.Possibly the trailing ignition isnt working,or your in desperate need of a tuneup.....both are common on 1st gens,with they troublesome ignitors and a tendancy to eat sparkplugs.
Rotaries are also known to be very hard on cats,but since they can be quite expensive(especially for a rotary specific unit,made to take the heat).....its better to concentrate on the items that Doc mentioned.They are cheaper to adress,will definately make a difference,and are a good idea,even if its not smog time.
BTW,the electric Corvette airpump deal is a poor excuse for a cob-job attempt to clear a less strictly enforced smog test in other parts of the country......that will not fly in CA,so dont waste your time.In CA,its all or nothing.....if you live in a smog controlled area,then all your smog gear needs to be intact and working or you wont pass.If your in the non-regulated county areas,then you can strip it all off, if you please.
02-09-07, 06:50 PM
#11
dxmoney
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no air going to cat the air pump is working there is vacum to aferbunner #1 can you clean the acv ? not sure if i put the air plunger in right top into acv or the top into manafoldon top of gakset or under?
02-09-07, 07:41 PM
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my fb is older than me
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i passed the ca smog but by barely last summer. wat i did was a full tune up. plugs dizzy and oil. then i messed with the A/F screw and made it a bit lean. that got me to pass.
03-28-07, 11:34 PM
#15
For removal of the car here is a link. https://www.rx7club.com/1st-gen-archive-71/fuel-intake-10-minute-removall-nikki-carb-448284/
After the carb is off the shutter valve replacement will be obvious.
After the carb is off the shutter valve replacement will be obvious.
04-09-07, 10:58 PM
#19
dxmoney
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i have not tryed alcohol trick my acv is not getting power i also can not get both lights to come on when i ajust the throtal pos sender would the richer solnoide have something to do with this i think that my number are to high for the trick to get me to pass
Rats nest is coming out this year.
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