(FUEL/INTAKE) 10 Minute Removall Of Nikki Carb
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 10,584
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From: Oregon
(FUEL/INTAKE) 10 Minute Removall Of Nikki Carb
Some tips for the first time removall of the stock nikki carb. #1). Buy a 12mm dist
wrench. Any one that has tried to get the nut off that is closest to the various cables knows this one is a nightmare. Also the one closest to the water pump housing is sort of a pain. But it is much quicker on all of them with this wrench. 1st
time i attempted to do this i created new swear words 17 years ago. 2). you do not have to disconnect all the vacuum lines at the side closest to the driverside.
Most of these attach to the base plate carb gasket and can just stay there. 3).
Always make notes as to where the vacuum lines you are taking off go to. 4)
Disconnect the cruise cable clip)if equipped), and hot start assist cable clip, leave the accelerator cable in place, don't worry about completley removing all the cables at this point. 5). Remove the anti-afterburn valve that is located closest to the firewall on the right side of carb ( as viewed from the drivers seat), 2 bolts
attach it to the carb, use 10mm wrench to remove. This makes it easier to remove the mounting nut to the carb below it. 6). After removing all the mounting nuts,
quanity=4. Slowly lift carb up, then access the cotter pin that attaches the omp rod
to the carb and remove. 7) remove the accelerator cabel retaining nut with 12mm
wrench and disconnect alll cables at carb. Of course the things i left out are the various electrical connectors which will be very obvious, and disconnection of fuel hoses. Don't forget to cover the carb opening at the manifold to avoid dropping nuts, bolts and debri down the throat while the carb is off. Hope this helps out and
keeps the frustration down. This thread also applies when you have to replace that pesky coasting/shutter valve that will eventually fail. Happy wrenching.
rx7doctor
wrench. Any one that has tried to get the nut off that is closest to the various cables knows this one is a nightmare. Also the one closest to the water pump housing is sort of a pain. But it is much quicker on all of them with this wrench. 1st
time i attempted to do this i created new swear words 17 years ago. 2). you do not have to disconnect all the vacuum lines at the side closest to the driverside.
Most of these attach to the base plate carb gasket and can just stay there. 3).
Always make notes as to where the vacuum lines you are taking off go to. 4)
Disconnect the cruise cable clip)if equipped), and hot start assist cable clip, leave the accelerator cable in place, don't worry about completley removing all the cables at this point. 5). Remove the anti-afterburn valve that is located closest to the firewall on the right side of carb ( as viewed from the drivers seat), 2 bolts
attach it to the carb, use 10mm wrench to remove. This makes it easier to remove the mounting nut to the carb below it. 6). After removing all the mounting nuts,
quanity=4. Slowly lift carb up, then access the cotter pin that attaches the omp rod
to the carb and remove. 7) remove the accelerator cabel retaining nut with 12mm
wrench and disconnect alll cables at carb. Of course the things i left out are the various electrical connectors which will be very obvious, and disconnection of fuel hoses. Don't forget to cover the carb opening at the manifold to avoid dropping nuts, bolts and debri down the throat while the carb is off. Hope this helps out and
keeps the frustration down. This thread also applies when you have to replace that pesky coasting/shutter valve that will eventually fail. Happy wrenching.
rx7doctor
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 739
Likes: 0
From: NE Ohio
Cool, im sure that'll come in handy. I think should be added to the FAQ since the carburetion system on the FB's seems to be a major source of frustration and a place to unlock some power.
Ya gunna post some tips to put it back on?
Ya gunna post some tips to put it back on?
Lorem ipsum dolor sit ame
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,262
Likes: 1
From: The Net
Originally Posted by rx7doctor
Some tips for the first time removall of the stock nikki carb. #1). Buy a 12mm dist
wrench. Any one that has tried to get the nut off that is closest to the various cables knows this one is a nightmare. Also the one closest to the water pump housing is sort of a pain. But it is much quicker on all of them with this wrench. 1st
time i attempted to do this i created new swear words 17 years ago. 2). you do not have to disconnect all the vacuum lines at the side closest to the driverside.
Most of these attach to the base plate carb gasket and can just stay there. 3).
Always make notes as to where the vacuum lines you are taking off go to. 4)
Disconnect the cruise cable clip)if equipped), and hot start assist cable clip, leave the accelerator cable in place, don't worry about completley removing all the cables at this point. 5). Remove the anti-afterburn valve that is located closest to the firewall on the right side of carb ( as viewed from the drivers seat), 2 bolts
attach it to the carb, use 10mm wrench to remove. This makes it easier to remove the mounting nut to the carb below it. 6). After removing all the mounting nuts,
quanity=4. Slowly lift carb up, then access the cotter pin that attaches the omp rod
to the carb and remove. 7) remove the accelerator cabel retaining nut with 12mm
wrench and disconnect alll cables at carb. Of course the things i left out are the various electrical connectors which will be very obvious, and disconnection of fuel hoses. Don't forget to cover the carb opening at the manifold to avoid dropping nuts, bolts and debri down the throat while the carb is off. Hope this helps out and
keeps the frustration down. This thread also applies when you have to replace that pesky coasting/shutter valve that will eventually fail. Happy wrenching.
rx7doctor
wrench. Any one that has tried to get the nut off that is closest to the various cables knows this one is a nightmare. Also the one closest to the water pump housing is sort of a pain. But it is much quicker on all of them with this wrench. 1st
time i attempted to do this i created new swear words 17 years ago. 2). you do not have to disconnect all the vacuum lines at the side closest to the driverside.
Most of these attach to the base plate carb gasket and can just stay there. 3).
Always make notes as to where the vacuum lines you are taking off go to. 4)
Disconnect the cruise cable clip)if equipped), and hot start assist cable clip, leave the accelerator cable in place, don't worry about completley removing all the cables at this point. 5). Remove the anti-afterburn valve that is located closest to the firewall on the right side of carb ( as viewed from the drivers seat), 2 bolts
attach it to the carb, use 10mm wrench to remove. This makes it easier to remove the mounting nut to the carb below it. 6). After removing all the mounting nuts,
quanity=4. Slowly lift carb up, then access the cotter pin that attaches the omp rod
to the carb and remove. 7) remove the accelerator cabel retaining nut with 12mm
wrench and disconnect alll cables at carb. Of course the things i left out are the various electrical connectors which will be very obvious, and disconnection of fuel hoses. Don't forget to cover the carb opening at the manifold to avoid dropping nuts, bolts and debri down the throat while the carb is off. Hope this helps out and
keeps the frustration down. This thread also applies when you have to replace that pesky coasting/shutter valve that will eventually fail. Happy wrenching.
rx7doctor
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 10,584
Likes: 12
From: Oregon
Ok i will post later on tips on reinstallation. Just for giggles i removed the other one on my parts car and took 5 minutes, not bad for an old fart, LOL. rx7doctor If any one has further tips on this, feel free to join in, thanks.
love the braaaap
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 3,771
Likes: 5
From: Bognor, Ontario
Nice writeup. I'm sure it will help a lot of people. One thing that should be mentioned is the design of the nuts. The carb base nuts have 12 points. You NEED a 12 point wrench to get them off. Just thought that was worth mentioning.
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 589
Likes: 3
From: Coastal
Dist wrench...I have never heard of one until today! Looks to be a special tool that maybe Snap-On or Mac would sell?
I managed to get that left rear nut on the carb-stud, yesterday evening. Yes, that one is a %#$@*!
I managed to get that left rear nut on the carb-stud, yesterday evening. Yes, that one is a %#$@*!
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Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 10,584
Likes: 12
From: Oregon
strange, all the ones i have worked on are 6 point, i do use a 12mm dist wrench to take
them off though. Maybe in canada because of the metric system they are different?
rx7doctor
them off though. Maybe in canada because of the metric system they are different?
rx7doctor
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 5,972
Likes: 37
From: Ottawa, Soviet Canuckistan
I got you beat. My friend timed me at 7 minutes... but in all fairness I had a 12mm wrench that Rx7Carl bent just for that purpose, it wasn't the first time the carb had come off that car in the last year, and I didn't un-clamp the fuel lines 
But it was more than enough for me to remove the shutter valve!
A tip is to get the stud from the bonez intake. You can grab the carb by the stud and pull it straight up. It makes carb removal easier because you can hold the carb with one hand and do linkages with the other if you have a stock carb that doesn't give easy access to the linkages like the Rx7Carl carb.
Jon
But it was more than enough for me to remove the shutter valve!
A tip is to get the stud from the bonez intake. You can grab the carb by the stud and pull it straight up. It makes carb removal easier because you can hold the carb with one hand and do linkages with the other if you have a stock carb that doesn't give easy access to the linkages like the Rx7Carl carb.
Jon
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