1bad13b

I just started running at the track and i'm having a hardtime doing a burn out on my stock tires. can some1 give me steps on how to do it?

thank you in advanced.

WackyRotary

rev it up dump the clutch and apply SOME pressure to the brakes, but not enough to bog the engine down. I've done this once for fun because I was being video'd for a tape and that the tires were almost ready to change.

peejay

I three-pedal a burnout. If you know how to heel-toe downshift, you can three-pedal a burnout.

Ball of right foot on brake, outside edge of foot on gas. Hold pressure on the brake, twist your ankle to rev the engine. I dump the clutch at about 5-6k, and then upshift to get the tire speed up. If i just dumped the clutch in 2nd like the 'Stang-bangers do, the clutch just slips, so I have to start burnouts in 1st. Burn a while, rolling forward slightly, then release the brake and power out.

Some things to think about - try different amounts of burnout. Too much can be as bad or worse than too little. You just want to get a little heat into the tires, and get rid of any debris on the tread. You're not trying to impress your friends in the stands. (Although that is kinda fun too ) If at any time you feel one wheel grab and stop spinning, STOP THE BURNOUT. One wheel peels are the fast way to differential explosions. Watch the tach - don't overrev. The stock tach only reads to 8200, and you can be easily going well beyong safe revs and not know it. (Ask me how I know) And when you do your burnout, do it at the far edge of the waterbox, not in it, and don't stop the burnout while you're in the water - either way you're not accomplishing anything useful.

Here's a vid showing the footwork... sorry the sound and image aren't in sync, my vidcap card really sucks
http://www.geocities.com/izzmus/WTburn.avi

If that doesn't work go here and click the link: http://www.geocities.com/izzmus/burnout.html GeoCities doesn't like people linking directly to images, not sure if that includes video, so to be safe I made a quickypage.

MIKE-P-28

iTrader: (1)

Isnt that really hard on your tires

(running really fast now )

peejay

Not as much as you'd think. Treadwear was fairly even front to rear, and I never rotated the tires because the ones on the back were a bit out of round (just enough to cause a slight drift and a maddening shake on the highway). My tires are garbage after a year anyway I usually only get 20-25,000mi out of a set of 350-400-rated tires.

riffraff

okay peejay. since i know you are just dying for someone to do it.... how do you know?

peejay

uh, it's how i blew my last engine. i trusted my tach and my rev-limiter a bit too much...

riffraff

ahh.. i think i was down in south america when that happened, so i didnot know how you blew it...

Felix Wankel

I three pedal the burnout as well. I do mine the opposite way that peejay does, I use my toe on the brake and my heel on the gas pedal (same way I heel and toe downshift. I'm just weird I guess). Once I get the tires spinning, I slide my left foot onto the brake pedal and use my right foot to keep the RPM where I want.

peejay

Heh, I can dump my clutch in the rain and it won't spin the tires I have a solution for that, though...

i have limited motion in my right ankle, and what motion i do have is all to the right - i can't point my right foot forwards without twisting my leg around... I used to drive in chuckies all the time, but heel-n-toe got a bit easier when i switched to wide Nikes instead.

the FUN part is trying to do it while wearing cleated/spiked biking shoes

riffraff

why would you ever drive in spiked biking shoes. . those things are hard enough to walk even walk in. how could you even feel the peddles

peejay

I used to use them as everyday shoes... no problems at all. they just look a little goofy, and cost a ton and a half for shoes that last longer than a season. Plus, to be honest, they're more comfotable for me than street shoes, because they're properly designed. (instead of having to wear other shoes for 6 months to a year for them to start to feel comfy) i usually only put the spikes in if it's been raining.

I tell ya though... no matter how stiff the suspension is in my car, it feels like I'm riding on Twinkie cream after a few hours of biking. i remember i had a revelation once.. "hey, my car has full suspension - SWEET!"

- PJ (it's not right for the bike to be worth less than the car, either )

Felix Wankel

I'm double jointed. I've always driven that way. I can modulate the brakes better with my toe than my heel. I figured squeezing the brakes right is more important when heel-and-toeing than the throttle blip.

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

That Really Sucks. I guess I've been Lucky. Every signle one of my 7 RX-7's was able to spin tires and stay right where it was with a first gear clutch dump.
I would do donuts like crazy back in the day.

People thought it had way more HP than it did because it could do that.

Back to the topic:

a CHEAP, (and relatively stupid) way of doing proper burnouts at the track. This is how my friend with his RX-3 does it.

1) Two small Vice Grips.
2) Apply Vice grips to REAR Brake Lines, effectively cutting them off.
3) Rev engine, Dump Clutch,
4) Place left foot on brake, right foot on gas.
5) Warm tires.
6) Do you 1/4 mile run
7) Slow down CAREFULLY (Front Brakes Only)
7) Collect time slip to show off, or hide if embarrasing.
8) Release Vice Grips and test brakes again.
9) GO home.

peejay

That's just with the new car. The old car would spin 'em from a roll in 4th gear in the rain

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

Sounds like BOM2 has got nothing on White Trash.
Also sounds like BOM2 is not putting out like a good **** should.

peejay

Well, I don't have to worry about the car collapsing in on itself when I dump the clutch, that's always a plus, right? It's always easier to add more power than new sheetmetal.

Felix Wankel

You should move down south. Nothing rusts here except cars that came from up north.

FuLLsMoKe

How can I get BOTH tires to peel out?! Dunno about you guys, but in my 85 GS only one wheel will spin and turn up smoke--the other will barely or not spin...
The one that does not spin (or spins a little) has the drum brake a bit tighter than the other side because it has shoes that don't fit too well...

I don't think I have a limited slip differential... Any thoughts on how to get both wheels to turn up smoke?

speckamp

Well no, you don't have an LSD. Only the GSL / GSL-SE came with them, and both of those axles have disc rears (solid or vented depending on trim level (-SE = vented). I don't know if you can get a good two-wheel-peel w/o a LSD. My buddy's 94 Grand Am is pretty reluctant to spin both, and one always gives a better show than the other. (of course he doesn't have an LSD)

--matt

Felix Wankel

I'll tell you how. Let it roll backwards a few feet and then dump it in first. Probably not too healthy, but both of the tires will spin.

85RX7GS

iTrader: (1)

That's interesting. Doesn't the clutch go under heavy strain when it's dumped at 6-7k RPMs? I also have a non limited slip, and the best burnouts I can do are around turns. I'm not keen on how to do it in a straight line.

FuLLsMoKe

Mmmm... Since a friend told me that only one wheel spins, I then decided to do that--with no luck...
It spun but not enough to turn up smoke, while the other wheel was throwing smoke up like crazy. Maybe it was just a bad day
I'll have to get a friend to watch when I try to spin both tires...

85RX7GS: How do you do a burn out in a turn? I like to let my wheels slide in a turn but I can't imagine being able to turn up smoke! (Unless it's like a 180 e-brake turn)

peejay

Never allow your car do to a one-wheel-peel... you will destroy your differential. (done that too)

I made both of them spin with the brake. Applying the brake while doing a burnout equalizes the torque better. Also, check your brakes to make sure one of them isn't binding, and if you took your rear swaybar off, put it back on.

Felix - Even in Columbus, only ~140mi south of here, I was amazed at how many mid-80s Japanese cars were still on the road. My parents bought a totally rust-free '84 Accord down there - up here you see '95 Accords with huge rust holes in them. The difference is, our winters are harsher (colder/wetter/icier) up here because we have that big ol' lake allowing Canada cold air to blast us, and they put down salt in a 1:1 by volume ratio with snow. Down there, all the nasties don't make it because of all the hills and landmass in the way. In the end, I don't think I could live without a good winter every year...