burn out
Originally posted by FuLLsMoKe
How can I get BOTH tires to peel out?! Dunno about you guys, but in my 85 GS only one wheel will spin and turn up smoke--the other will barely or not spin...
The one that does not spin (or spins a little) has the drum brake a bit tighter than the other side because it has shoes that don't fit too well...
I don't think I have a limited slip differential... Any thoughts on how to get both wheels to turn up smoke?
How can I get BOTH tires to peel out?! Dunno about you guys, but in my 85 GS only one wheel will spin and turn up smoke--the other will barely or not spin...
The one that does not spin (or spins a little) has the drum brake a bit tighter than the other side because it has shoes that don't fit too well...
I don't think I have a limited slip differential... Any thoughts on how to get both wheels to turn up smoke?
be just like me
but you have to practive proper driving teknique,
you have to hit the gas around turns
NOT BRAKE
or your inside tire will squeel like a piggy
or maybe its the outside one?
i live in mi so we have the "michigan turn arounds"
man there a bitch till i got used to it.
another thing to help ur burn outs is a stiffer suspension,
springs help the most,
i use racing beat
i think their the hardest rears out for an fb
want st's for the front,
but for now running stock
springs help the most,
i use racing beat
i think their the hardest rears out for an fb
want st's for the front,
but for now running stock
Usually I do this on a 90 degree turn. All I do is take the turn, but while half way through, I gun it and the inside wheel smokes. I know its not good for the car, but I'm looking into a LSD with rear discs soon.
LSD makes breaking traction a lot harder. That's why my clutch slips instead of the tires - did I mention the rear tires have no tread at all on them?
It fishtails nice though... one time I was following someone who made a wrong turn and i was blindly following them (I tend to do that, when following someone). Let's see, I'm in the rain, I'm in an RX-7, and I have to turn 270 degrees to the left and then 90 degrees to the right. How should I do this? Gee let me think...
It fishtails nice though... one time I was following someone who made a wrong turn and i was blindly following them (I tend to do that, when following someone). Let's see, I'm in the rain, I'm in an RX-7, and I have to turn 270 degrees to the left and then 90 degrees to the right. How should I do this? Gee let me think...
"By the beard of Zeus!"
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 867
Likes: 0
From: Huntsville, Alabama / Atlanta, Georgia
OK, I did a three pedal burn out... after gettin used to it--and i think my OTHER wheel spins now... 
This is the one with the tighter brake... I really need to get 2 friends to help me watch. The car will shudder like a bitch and pull to the right, which is the only wheel that's turning up smoke.
Ideas?

This is the one with the tighter brake... I really need to get 2 friends to help me watch. The car will shudder like a bitch and pull to the right, which is the only wheel that's turning up smoke.
Ideas?
i use racing beat
i think their the hardest rears out for an fb
i think their the hardest rears out for an fb
Sorry this post was kinda pointless lol
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 7,855
Likes: 517
From: Behind a workbench, repairing FC Electronics.
Anyone know where I can get a linelock for the RX-7?
It does lock on the front brakes, Right?
Is there any drawback to using this as a towing deterant as well?
It does lock on the front brakes, Right?
Is there any drawback to using this as a towing deterant as well?
Yes. Line-locks don't hold for very long - generally they say don't use them as a parking brake and don't expect them to work for more than 1/2 hour. (I don't know how much you know about them - they don't actually apply the brakes. You stomp the brake and apply the lock, and it prevents brake fluid/pressure from returning to the master cylinder, like a check valve)
It would be a pain to put one in a Mazda, but doable. There are *two* outlets for the front brakes, so you'd either need two line-locks, or you'd have to plug one of the outlets, run the other one to the line-lock, and then run a T afterwards. Either way it won't be pretty.
It would be a pain to put one in a Mazda, but doable. There are *two* outlets for the front brakes, so you'd either need two line-locks, or you'd have to plug one of the outlets, run the other one to the line-lock, and then run a T afterwards. Either way it won't be pretty.
Originally posted by SilverRocket
Nah, they're fairly soft. The Eibach kit has stiffer rear springs, but Ground Control offers lots of really stiff rear spring rates (I think made by Eibach too).
Sorry this post was kinda pointless lol
Nah, they're fairly soft. The Eibach kit has stiffer rear springs, but Ground Control offers lots of really stiff rear spring rates (I think made by Eibach too).
Sorry this post was kinda pointless lol
stock-
rear-85
front-100
racing beat
rear-110
front-145
suspension tekniques
rear-80
front-85/120
eibach
rear-100
front-171
nope rb's are stiffer
Originally posted by WackyRotary
rev it up dump the clutch and apply SOME pressure to the brakes, but not enough to bog the engine down. I've done this once for fun because I was being video'd for a tape and that the tires were almost ready to change.
rev it up dump the clutch and apply SOME pressure to the brakes, but not enough to bog the engine down. I've done this once for fun because I was being video'd for a tape and that the tires were almost ready to change.
can you explain what dumping the clutch means?
Halfway release the clutch? Hell no.
You hold the brake lightly with the ball of your right foot, rev the engine with the other edge of your right foot, and pop the clutch with your left. Once spinning you control the burnout by applying just enough brake to hold the car still and just enough throttle to keep the tires moving.
You hold the brake lightly with the ball of your right foot, rev the engine with the other edge of your right foot, and pop the clutch with your left. Once spinning you control the burnout by applying just enough brake to hold the car still and just enough throttle to keep the tires moving.
http://www.geocities.com/izzmus/burnout.html
http://www.geocities.com/izzmus/about.html
In car videos. Sorry it's not an FB, it's an SA. The first link's video has a semi-good shot of the footwork I described.
http://www.geocities.com/izzmus/about.html
In car videos. Sorry it's not an FB, it's an SA. The first link's video has a semi-good shot of the footwork I described.
a question for anyone who want's to field it
I have an 84GSL (4 wheel disc)
i find it impossible to do a stand still burnout without stalling.
i have tried dumping the clutch at 5000 RPM, and lightly pressing the brake.
the brakes keep overpowering the wheels, and really wants to stop 'em
She'll burn great if i don't touch the brake, but i would really like to be able to do a "stand still burnout"
ANY IDEAS????
I have an 84GSL (4 wheel disc)
i find it impossible to do a stand still burnout without stalling.
i have tried dumping the clutch at 5000 RPM, and lightly pressing the brake.
the brakes keep overpowering the wheels, and really wants to stop 'em
She'll burn great if i don't touch the brake, but i would really like to be able to do a "stand still burnout"
ANY IDEAS????
My car gets mad traction, wet or dry (stiff suspension, LSD rear). With brake or without standing burnouts are pretty much impossible. She'll push forward like no other 7 I've driven. I'm not sure why though.





