building my first engine this weekend... advice from the experienced?
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 4,815
Likes: 24
From: Columbia, Tennessee
Just making sure as the stamping has differences. Its basically a 79 and 80 meshed together. Im relieved nobody has said "its all backwards, you have to take it apart again!".
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,835
Likes: 3,233
From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
I bought the Atkins dvd and had it on a laptop going as I built my first engine. The Atkins dvd is great. I followed the theyre process almost entirely. Vaseline is awesome..works the best for holding things in place..and it gets absorbed by the engine oil. I did use Hylomar like Atkins does. I didnt have any issues just have to make sure to clean up the excess Hylomar and youll be fine.
Pictures are not that bad. I can see enough details.
Good job! Question: I know the 79-80 setups had an altitude compensation device on the intake maniold which acts more like a PCV valve. I never knew it is supposed to go to the big nipple on the SA carbs like that. I always block off the carb nipple and route the "PCV" valve over to the nipple on the oil filler. It keeps the moisture away from under the cap and I haven't experienced any problems hooking it up this way/blocking off the big carb nipple. Any plans to try it? You will surely get water under your cap with that small breather hooked to it like that. Leave the other hose routed up to the air cleaner as is.
Good job! Question: I know the 79-80 setups had an altitude compensation device on the intake maniold which acts more like a PCV valve. I never knew it is supposed to go to the big nipple on the SA carbs like that. I always block off the carb nipple and route the "PCV" valve over to the nipple on the oil filler. It keeps the moisture away from under the cap and I haven't experienced any problems hooking it up this way/blocking off the big carb nipple. Any plans to try it? You will surely get water under your cap with that small breather hooked to it like that. Leave the other hose routed up to the air cleaner as is.
Don't use red locktite on anything. Where did you read that? They have a lock washer for a reason. The factory doesn't use red locktite. Neither do I . Why do you think you need it? Just curious about your thought process.
Otherwise congrats. I'd have done several other things different. But it's together now. Let's hope that R5 runs great!
Otherwise congrats. I'd have done several other things different. But it's together now. Let's hope that R5 runs great!
I was just explaining to the guy that he doesn't need red locktite on stock fasteners that use a lockwasher like the ones he mentioned.
I only ever saw one oil pickup that had fallen into the oil pan. It was a Hayes build. They were not known for quality. Every one of their builds I tore down had something terribly wrong with it. But the chance of your pickup tube falling off, if properly torqued, even without safety wire, are next to none.
You ask what's the harm? Any loctite will leave a residue in the threads, so there's that. You have to really clean all the oil residue off of everything before application, so knowing how oil likes to hide, it probably wouldn't stick anyway. The red needs heat applied before removal, right? That would be horribly inconvenient and even possibly dangerous on things like an oil pump where you have to hit it with a propane torch. There is oil inside, and the aluminum housing could warp, ruining it. The bolts are pretty small too. There is a chance one could snap off inside the iron and then you have a much bigger problem to deal with. I'm just saving the guy a lot of potential headaches.
There are, of course, some places where red locktite is appropriate, such as the shaft nut on a turbo. However engine internal fasteners are not one of them. With possibly one exception. The checkball squirters in the shaft tend to have some kind of thread locker on them, but most aren't tight anyway. I've had to remove several sets of full-flow oil squirters from stock J-spec R5 shafts and replace with US-spec checkball versions pulled from damaged shafts. When I tighten, I use an impact screwdriver and blue locktite. Works fine.
You gotta have some finesse somewhere. If not in other parts of your life, at least in engine internals, you know? Or if carbs are your thing, go for that. They have a lot of small parts.
I only ever saw one oil pickup that had fallen into the oil pan. It was a Hayes build. They were not known for quality. Every one of their builds I tore down had something terribly wrong with it. But the chance of your pickup tube falling off, if properly torqued, even without safety wire, are next to none.
You ask what's the harm? Any loctite will leave a residue in the threads, so there's that. You have to really clean all the oil residue off of everything before application, so knowing how oil likes to hide, it probably wouldn't stick anyway. The red needs heat applied before removal, right? That would be horribly inconvenient and even possibly dangerous on things like an oil pump where you have to hit it with a propane torch. There is oil inside, and the aluminum housing could warp, ruining it. The bolts are pretty small too. There is a chance one could snap off inside the iron and then you have a much bigger problem to deal with. I'm just saving the guy a lot of potential headaches.
There are, of course, some places where red locktite is appropriate, such as the shaft nut on a turbo. However engine internal fasteners are not one of them. With possibly one exception. The checkball squirters in the shaft tend to have some kind of thread locker on them, but most aren't tight anyway. I've had to remove several sets of full-flow oil squirters from stock J-spec R5 shafts and replace with US-spec checkball versions pulled from damaged shafts. When I tighten, I use an impact screwdriver and blue locktite. Works fine.
You gotta have some finesse somewhere. If not in other parts of your life, at least in engine internals, you know? Or if carbs are your thing, go for that. They have a lot of small parts.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 4,815
Likes: 24
From: Columbia, Tennessee
Engine is in and running! It fired right up the first try despite the timing being a bit off at first. No leaks, and minimal smoking. I idled it in the garage and let it build up compression / break in for about 1 hour while I tuned on the carb and checked for leaks. I took it out for a 15 mile drive down the highway with no issues and let it idle in the garage again for another 30 minutes or so.
Is the break in period similar to a clutch break in? 5-600 miles under 4000 RPM?
Is the break in period similar to a clutch break in? 5-600 miles under 4000 RPM?
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,835
Likes: 3,233
From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Engine is in and running! It fired right up the first try despite the timing being a bit off at first. No leaks, and minimal smoking. I idled it in the garage and let it build up compression / break in for about 1 hour while I tuned on the carb and checked for leaks. I took it out for a 15 mile drive down the highway with no issues and let it idle in the garage again for another 30 minutes or so.
Is the break in period similar to a clutch break in? 5-600 miles under 4000 RPM?
Is the break in period similar to a clutch break in? 5-600 miles under 4000 RPM?
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 4,815
Likes: 24
From: Columbia, Tennessee
On a side note... My choke magnet seems to have stopped working. Could the problem be in the vac solenoids I removed? I removed the whole rack except for the vac advance solenoid for trailing ignition. Do I need to dig out the switch or relief solenoids and rig them up to a vacuum source on the carb plate?
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