Old engine: stock NA S4 13b 6pt, lots of tuning and Racing Beat bolt ons: 13.96 @ 97mph

New engine: 4 port street port 13B, no times yet, still tuning and breaking it in.

Line lock is a good thing.

http://4acesdogranch.freeyellow.com/...break_in_2.mpg

 

SWEET burnout. If u need direction breaking in the new motor just let us know. Got a few tricks.

 

Yes, please share the break in tips! You don't like my method of drive it easy for 600 miles then go to the track but try keep it under 8500 rpms?

 

Damn what bolt ons did you have?
FI or carbed?
Im doing a 6port, street port with full RB exhaust, second gen intake and a lightened flywheel along with cold air E-fan underdrive pulleys and all that on my SE
Im hoping to be somewhere in the 14's with that.
I need more details

 

Two setups ago:
-84 GSL-SE motor, stock, 205k miles on it
-remove 6pt sleeves/actuators/rods, light cleanup of manifold
-Racing Beat 48 Dellorto, street port exhaust, aluminum flywheel
-2) MSD 6A, direct fire leading, advanced timing
-stock replacement clutch/pp
-electric fan
-205/55-14 Nitto 555r
14.38@93mph

One setup ago:
-86 S4 13b 6port, stock, non ported
-again, no 6 port sleeve, etc.
-4.88 gears
-2420lbs at run time
13.96@97mph

Current setup:
-Street port 13b, 4 port
-Racing Beat Holley
Haven't run it seriously at the track yet, still breaking it in, need to fine tune but it is already much faster than the previous setup.

 

The streetported 4-port 13B is my favorite setup, I think you'll like it a lot, especially if you do a fair amount of "regular" street driving. You are running a long-primary exhaust setup, aren't you?

 

What side housings are you using? 12a or early 13b?

 

Wankelguy-
Exhaust: yes, long primaries that collect right in front of the Primaflow muffler - Racing Beat street port. I've run over 6 different exhausts and this is the best one for street use. Great power from bottom to top.

inittab-
I'm using 80-something 12A sidehousings ported with Racing Beat street port templates. I sent the housings to them for lapping also.

Rotating assembly is GSL-SE with the Racing Beat aluminum flywheel. It makes driving the car a lot more fun.

No one asked, but the line lock solenoid is a Biondo!

 

Why did you remove your six port sleeves? I'd imagine doing that would really hurt your quarter time.

 

yeah... a good thing for peeling your rear tires off. lol

 

Are you suggesting that if I re-installed the 6 port sleeves that I would have run faster than a 13.96 @ 97? With every 6 port (around 7) that I removed the sleeves and added a carb, I could idle the car in first gear, stand on the gas and the tires would spin. I don't understand the controversy. The modification costs $0 and gives power.

BTW, with the stock 4.08 gears I got 22-23mpg and around 18mpg with the 4.88's.

 

Is the line lock on the left or the right?

 

Line lock is a hydraulic solenoid that is placed between the master cylinder and the front brake calipers. It allows you to step on the brake, flip the switch, release the brake pedal and your front brakes remain locked while the rears are free to turn. This makes it easy on your driveline while heating the tires.

Before I had line lock, I would 'heel and toe' to heat the tires. I did this until I had an unfortunate incident. In the 80's, I had a 74 RX-3 with a Tri-point street port 13B and 10" street slicks mounted on 13x9's. I used to hold the brake while heating the tires...... until I snapped the input shaft to the transmission. You add unnecessary stress to the driveline by adding the drag of the rear brakes. I use line lock now!

 

Isn't lapping a not so good thing? I thought that it removed the silicon nitride coating and thus made the housing subject to greater wear. Has anyone else heard this?

 

Yes and no. If the gas nitrided side housings are within spec then don't resurface them. If they have grooves/wear that will effect side seal effectiveness, then lapping is necessary. The housings I had happened to need it badly.

 

As for break-in the general rule is keep it under 4000rpms for the first 1000miles. Then increase it 1000rpms per 500 miles. Never put it under full load (full throttle) until she's all done. The more you baby it when new, the longer it'll last and happier it'll be.

I start the break-in process by ideling it for an hour. Let cool. Then put rear up on jackstands, put it in 4th gear and crank up the idle to 2000rpms and let it spin the tires for one hour. Let cool and repeat the 4th gear spin for another hour. That'll put a slight load on it to get the seals start gelling with the cast irons and chrome.

Then put-put around the block and either throw it on the dyno for a controlled break in (did that with my racecar) or drive around keeping her under 4000rpms for first 1000 miles.

 

DriveFast7-
I was under the impression that during break in it was bad to run the engine at a constant rpm for an extended period. Something about harmonics.

 

nah. Rob @ pineapple racing told me those break in tips. including the 4th gear 2000rpm deal. he's forgotten more about rotary engines than i've ever learned!

After the driveway prelim breakin I took my j-bridge to the dyno and ran it for:
40 min 4000rpms
40 min 4500rpms
40 min 5000rpms
40 min 5500rpms

and the dyno shop (also a rotary shop) and Rob all agreed she was ready to go. she's making good power too and isn't even jetted properly yet!!!

 

DriveFast7-
What is your setup? What are the dyno and 1/4 mile numbers?

 

on the street i tell people that get my motors. 1st 500 miles no more than 3krpm, then add 1k rpm per 500 miles.... this takes a while but the motor is broken in SLOW and should last a long long time. i just did a driveway breakin last night... 5 hours from idle-3500 rpm.... doing more driveway time today