Brakes Pulling
Brakes Pulling
Hey Guys,
Ok so i finally got my all new brake setup on the car. I have powerslot rotors with new bearings, new hawk hps pads, and stainless braided lines from racing beat. I installed everything and it went together great. I also broke in the new pads following the instructions given on the hawk pads.
Here is my question: The stopping action feels great except that when I apply the brakes with more than just a light touch the car pulls to the left a bit. Is this a normal thing? The brakes don't smell or look like they're having any trouble. Any suggestions?
Thanks in advance for any help...
Nopistonsforjoe
Ok so i finally got my all new brake setup on the car. I have powerslot rotors with new bearings, new hawk hps pads, and stainless braided lines from racing beat. I installed everything and it went together great. I also broke in the new pads following the instructions given on the hawk pads.
Here is my question: The stopping action feels great except that when I apply the brakes with more than just a light touch the car pulls to the left a bit. Is this a normal thing? The brakes don't smell or look like they're having any trouble. Any suggestions?
Thanks in advance for any help...
Nopistonsforjoe
hmmm carl youre probably right. i did bleed the left side twice and the right side only once...don't ask me why hahaha. i'll check it out and post what happens. anything else it could be?
Well i just rebled the brakes and its still pulling. any other suggestions.
on the rears i just swapped the rubber hose with a stainless steel one. if it was a leaking wheel cylinder wouldnt the pulling have been obvious before i redid the front brakes? god i hope its something easy. i have no more money! keep the help coming your s
on the rears i just swapped the rubber hose with a stainless steel one. if it was a leaking wheel cylinder wouldnt the pulling have been obvious before i redid the front brakes? god i hope its something easy. i have no more money! keep the help coming your s
yeah i wish i had the money to replace the calipers....even if thats not the problem. I'm thinking if i can't take the wheels off and figure out what's wrong I might just take it to a brake shop for a free inspection and maybe they can tell me what's wrong with it. then once i know i can fix it myself (hopefully) I'll have to live with it for now,but i'm not going to let it go on much longer,just over the weekend.
Trending Topics
It's pretty easy to make sure the calipers are sliding smoothly on their mounts. If you remove the wheel and grab the caliper, you should be able to wiggle it around side to side by quite a bit. The caliper actually 'floats' a bit during braking, but this keeps the most surface area against the rotor and also ensures that the brake pads wear evenly. If you look at the pads that you replaced and one of the pads (inside or outside) is worn considerably more than the other, then this may be an indicator of a caliper that's not floating correctly. If it's binding, it can cause the pads to wear very quickly and will cause dragging and pulling during heavy braking.
Simple fix is to clean off and re-apply a good caliper mount grease every time you have the caliper removed from the mounts. It only takes a few extra minutes and you're sure that the calipers are sliding correctly. This goes for fronts and rears (on GSL and SE models).
Also, you might want to consider rebuilding your calipers, since many of these are 20-years old and may never have been rebuilt. The rebuild kits are cheap, simple, and guarantee better braking.
Since you mentioned replacement of all the 'soft' lines in your braking system, when you move up to silicone/braided SS lines, you are shifting the weak-link in your braking system to the caliper piston seals. The old rubber flexible lines are able to expand a lot to help balance out and dissipate excess line pressure, but the new SS lines will not flex like that - in this case, they may be allowing one of your calipers to bleed brake fluid pressure into one of the piston dust boots, or worse, allowing a leak onto the pad/rotor. Take a good look at your calipers and decide whether it's worth rebuilding.
Last thing to look at is the brake proportioning valve itself - at the firewall. Look here to make sure that you don't have any crimped lines and that you've bled all of the old brake fluid out of the system. When you install new pads/rotors/etc. you should also drain out your brake fluid (through replacement), until you get clear fluid at each corner. Any contaminants in the old system will cause inconsistencies in braking force.
Have a look and let us know what you find,
Simple fix is to clean off and re-apply a good caliper mount grease every time you have the caliper removed from the mounts. It only takes a few extra minutes and you're sure that the calipers are sliding correctly. This goes for fronts and rears (on GSL and SE models).
Also, you might want to consider rebuilding your calipers, since many of these are 20-years old and may never have been rebuilt. The rebuild kits are cheap, simple, and guarantee better braking.
Since you mentioned replacement of all the 'soft' lines in your braking system, when you move up to silicone/braided SS lines, you are shifting the weak-link in your braking system to the caliper piston seals. The old rubber flexible lines are able to expand a lot to help balance out and dissipate excess line pressure, but the new SS lines will not flex like that - in this case, they may be allowing one of your calipers to bleed brake fluid pressure into one of the piston dust boots, or worse, allowing a leak onto the pad/rotor. Take a good look at your calipers and decide whether it's worth rebuilding.
Last thing to look at is the brake proportioning valve itself - at the firewall. Look here to make sure that you don't have any crimped lines and that you've bled all of the old brake fluid out of the system. When you install new pads/rotors/etc. you should also drain out your brake fluid (through replacement), until you get clear fluid at each corner. Any contaminants in the old system will cause inconsistencies in braking force.
Have a look and let us know what you find,
I agree, it is 99% to be your right caliper sticking, this causes your left side to brake and right to either not grab or have less pressure, hence the car pulls to the left due to the momentum of the vehicle's weight.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
AXA
Single Turbo RX-7's
8
Sep 5, 2015 10:06 AM






