1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Brake problem...is it the caliper?? Please help...

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Old Aug 3, 2010 | 09:27 PM
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Brake problem...is it the caliper?? Please help...

Well today when I was driving to get my new tires, the car started making the noise a car makes when the brake pads are bad. Like that loud metal on metal sound when you're under about 10 mph. So, I put new pads on it today. The rotors were actually in decent shape, so I didn't have to get new ones of them. The weird thing is that the old pads on the right side weren't too worn out, but the old pads on the left side were completely worn down to the metal. So, I figured that maybe the left caliper was freezing shut??

So, I went to test drive the car to see if the new pads helped. I noticed a constant chirping/squeeking noise coming from that bad left side. Also, the car was pulling to the left, like the brakes on that side were sticking. So, frustrated, I drove it home and then proceeded to throw tools all over and kick things in my driveway. Then, I felt the wheels, to see if they were hot. The right wheel was fine, but the left was so hot, it burned my fingers. So, I'm pretty sure the caliper is freezing shut. BUT, before I buy the part, can someone confirm that this is probably the caliper for me?


By the way, my dad was telling me it could help if I repack the bearings. Does anyone know if that would help anything?
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Old Aug 3, 2010 | 09:36 PM
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Repacking the bearings have nothing to do with your issue, Either the brake hose is collapsing inside or the caliper is bad. My guess is the caliper is shot. Recommend replace hoses as preventive maintenance!
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Old Aug 3, 2010 | 09:58 PM
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if I may add, check the right side, if it is not working properly it would over work the left side
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Old Aug 3, 2010 | 10:44 PM
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Caliper and new hoses as the doc said. Same thing happened to me a while back.
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Old Aug 3, 2010 | 11:03 PM
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I'm going with a new caliper and hoses for sure then. Hopefully that'll be the last of my worries and I can then drive the car worry-free for the first time : ).

Thanks guys
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Old Aug 4, 2010 | 01:00 AM
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Originally Posted by 13x
if I may add, check the right side, if it is not working properly it would over work the left side
that's a new one on me. but my money's on the left caliper closing and not releasing. ran into this problem too many times for it to be ur idea.
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Old Aug 4, 2010 | 02:27 AM
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Sorry but your theory is not correct!


Originally Posted by 13x
if I may add, check the right side, if it is not working properly it would over work the left side
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Old Aug 4, 2010 | 02:43 AM
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Rx-7Doctor (I have read plenty of his wise advice he knows his stuff you'd be wise to listen as well) and every one else that said bad caliper(s) is spot on replace them asap and new hoses as well just to be safe, if the rotors are in useable shape have them resurfaced just to be thorough. With the brake system better to spend the greenbacks and be safe than be cheap and meet eternity.
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Old Aug 4, 2010 | 10:52 AM
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wow that is the most repsonse I have gotten to a post on this forum lol.

rxtasy3, I would agree it is "probably" the left side

rx-7doctor, you may not have seen but I have over the years, one caliper piston gets seized resulting in the other side doing the work, causing a pull and leading someone to believe that the working side is the faulty side. You seem like a logical type think it out while it's unlikely it is possiable.

PK 12A, I have seen some of his posts and yes rx-7doctor does appear to know his stuff, I just suggested something else to look at. Looking is free spending money on more parts is not.


I understand you folks see my join date and current post count and may think I am some yo-yo that fell out of a tree, that's fine. I am not here to **** anyone off or rub anyone the wrong way so this will be the last of my input on this thread.

SoxSider hope ya get her straightened out soon while they are gorgeous little cars they look better going down the road then sitting in a garage or driveway
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Old Aug 4, 2010 | 02:02 PM
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Inspecting is free you are correct 13x, I merely was saying to heed the warnings of what everyone had mentioned and driving home that the brake system is the LAST place to skimp on any expenditure not that anyone was wrong, if I offended my apologies.
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Old Aug 4, 2010 | 02:04 PM
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Yes if one caliper is not working, the other side will indeed do more work as the pressure is then directed to the other caliper.

Replace BOTH calipers and lines.

Always do things in pairs..... tires, calipers, pads, rotors, wheel bearings. if one side went the other is close behind.
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Old Aug 4, 2010 | 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by PK_12A
Inspecting is free you are correct 13x, I merely was saying to heed the warnings of what everyone had mentioned and driving home that the brake system is the LAST place to skimp on any expenditure not that anyone was wrong, if I offended my apologies.
Ah don't sweat it, I agree I don't want cars with unsafe brakes on the same roads as my wife, my children or my grandchild nor would anyone else.
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Old Aug 4, 2010 | 05:41 PM
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I want to make sure this is clarified here about braking systems.

It is not possible when a caliper is "seized" to make the other side pull or do more work. Now think about this carefully. A "seized" caliper is a stuck caliper causing the pads to be engaged against the brake rotor at all times.This would already be slowing the vehicle down at all times. This would cause the vehicle to pull to that side, not possible to pull to a side that is operating properly in this condition. . If the one side was non-functioning (no hydraulic pressure), not stuck, then the other good side could cause a pull. However that is highly unlikely because the only real failure you would have hydraulic wise to a front wheel is a leak in a hose or the caliper seal which in turn would cause air in the complete system therefore cause a spongy pedal then a loss of brakes.



[quote=13x;10146864]wow that is the most repsonse I have gotten to a post on this forum lol.


rx-7doctor, you may not have seen but I have over the years, one caliper piston gets seized resulting in the other side doing the work, causing a pull and leading someone to believe that the working side is the faulty side. You seem like a logical type think it out while it's unlikely it is possiable.
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Old Aug 4, 2010 | 05:53 PM
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[QUOTE=Rx-7Doctor;10147594]I want to make sure this is clarified here about braking systems.

It is not possible when a caliper is "seized" to make the other side pull or do more work. Now think about this carefully. A "seized" caliper is a stuck caliper causing the pads to be engaged against the brake rotor at all times.This would already be slowing the vehicle down at all times. This would cause the vehicle to pull to that side, not possible to pull to a side that is operating properly in this condition. . If the one side was non-functioning (no hydraulic pressure), not stuck, then the other good side could cause a pull. However that is highly unlikely because the only real failure you would have hydraulic wise to a front wheel is a leak in a hose or the caliper seal which in turn would cause air in the complete system therefore cause a spongy pedal then a loss of brakes.



Originally Posted by 13x
wow that is the most repsonse I have gotten to a post on this forum lol.


rx-7doctor, you may not have seen but I have over the years, one caliper piston gets seized resulting in the other side doing the work, causing a pull and leading someone to believe that the working side is the faulty side. You seem like a logical type think it out while it's unlikely it is possiable.
errr as this has the potential of getting into a pissing match I will simply say, seized into the caliper and suggest we keep our minds open, my apologies I will never again post in a thread where you have made your opinion known, I'll leave it at that.
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Old Aug 4, 2010 | 08:08 PM
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Hey guys, when I took the left caliper off to inspect it, I found that it sure was frozen shut. So I replaced that caliper and now the car is fine. The brakes are still a little noisy, but right now I can't afford to get new rotors, but they weren't in all that bad of shape anyways. Also, my friend who's a mechanic was telling me that the Duralast pads I put on it are known to be noisy anyways. I think some of the sound will go away as the car is driven anyways. I also only put a new caliper on the one side. I know I should put a new one on the other side as well, but I have to wait until I have more money.

Also, the right side caliper was fine, but 13x did make a valid point. If the right side wasn't shutting correctly, then the left side would be doing all the work to stop the car, meaning (this was not the case with my car, but still) the car would pull left even though the right side caliper can be the faulty one.

But it's all good, it's nothing to fight over, I'm just a noob worrying about a simple brake caliper when you guys are overhauling engines and such : ).
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Old Aug 4, 2010 | 08:21 PM
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You don't have to buy new rotors. Just get them turned. but good luck with that...
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Old Aug 4, 2010 | 08:47 PM
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I believe what 13X is referring to is if the caliper on one side is not pushing out (meaning stuck in the bore) then it could cause that issue. In that case if the right side caliper was stuck in the "retracted" position then the left side would be doing all the work plus it would pull. My point was directed at your particular issue about the pads being worn out and pulling to the left. The only possible cause in your case is a stuck extended caliper and or bad brake hose not because the other side could be stuck in the retracted position. Hope this clarifies this issue. :-)
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