Brake Parts Are IN!
#1
Brake Parts Are IN!
Hey All,
Well, today was payday, and thanks to working my *** off for a while, I ordered all my new brake parts! Here's the laydown of what I got:
Victoria British:
Stainless Steel Hoses $ 74.85USD
Front Pad Shim Set $ 19.95USD
Front Hardware Set $ 24.95USD
Rear Hardware Set $ 14.95USD
VB TOTAL $124.70USD
(Canadian Total $212 w/ shipping)
Canadian Tire:
2 Front Brake Rotors $190.42CDN
2 Inner Bearings (front) $ 51.18CDN
Premium Pads Set (front) $ 25.18CDN
Premium Shoes Set (rear) $ 31.55CDN
CT TOTAL $298.33 +tax
(Total After Tax = 343.08)
NAPA Autoparts:
2 Rear Wheel Cylinders $ 90CDN
Totally Totaled Total: $645 Canadian!
So basically the only things I'm not changing are the Master Cylinder, Brake Booster, Rear Drums and hard metal lines.
I have a few questions about the install (though, I'm going to have a mechanic friend of ours on hand).
1. With the front rotors, is there anything other than the inner bearing that I need to buy new? Does the "seal" come out or do I need a new one? I remember a little rubber washer-like thing coming out last time I took the rotor off, and thought that might be the seal.
2. What's the best way to clear out the old lines? I figured I'd just disconnect them at the calipers and the passenger's wheel cylinder and pump clean brake fluid through them from the master cyl until it runs clear. Good idea or not?
3. How would you go about getting the air out of the hose that goes over the rear diff when it's replaced? Does the air just naturally go towards the bleed hole on the caliper, or should I fill the hose with brake fluid somehow when installing it?
Any other pointers from people who've done their brakes would be much appreciated. I have written out what I think is the best procedure here based on what I found in the forum and what I read in my Heynes...so let's hope me and Lawrence (the mechanic friend) don't miss/forget anything
L8rs
Jon
Well, today was payday, and thanks to working my *** off for a while, I ordered all my new brake parts! Here's the laydown of what I got:
Victoria British:
Stainless Steel Hoses $ 74.85USD
Front Pad Shim Set $ 19.95USD
Front Hardware Set $ 24.95USD
Rear Hardware Set $ 14.95USD
VB TOTAL $124.70USD
(Canadian Total $212 w/ shipping)
Canadian Tire:
2 Front Brake Rotors $190.42CDN
2 Inner Bearings (front) $ 51.18CDN
Premium Pads Set (front) $ 25.18CDN
Premium Shoes Set (rear) $ 31.55CDN
CT TOTAL $298.33 +tax
(Total After Tax = 343.08)
NAPA Autoparts:
2 Rear Wheel Cylinders $ 90CDN
Totally Totaled Total: $645 Canadian!
So basically the only things I'm not changing are the Master Cylinder, Brake Booster, Rear Drums and hard metal lines.
I have a few questions about the install (though, I'm going to have a mechanic friend of ours on hand).
1. With the front rotors, is there anything other than the inner bearing that I need to buy new? Does the "seal" come out or do I need a new one? I remember a little rubber washer-like thing coming out last time I took the rotor off, and thought that might be the seal.
2. What's the best way to clear out the old lines? I figured I'd just disconnect them at the calipers and the passenger's wheel cylinder and pump clean brake fluid through them from the master cyl until it runs clear. Good idea or not?
3. How would you go about getting the air out of the hose that goes over the rear diff when it's replaced? Does the air just naturally go towards the bleed hole on the caliper, or should I fill the hose with brake fluid somehow when installing it?
Any other pointers from people who've done their brakes would be much appreciated. I have written out what I think is the best procedure here based on what I found in the forum and what I read in my Heynes...so let's hope me and Lawrence (the mechanic friend) don't miss/forget anything
L8rs
Jon
#2
hey, its a good idea to replace the grease seal, there cheap and why not while its apart. any local parts house should have them. as far as bleeding your system, im a mechanic and the way i do it is take a clear bottle and a long piece of vac line stick in on the bleeder and the other end in the bottle, put some brake fluid in the bottle to submerge the line then open the bleeder and pump the pedal. this will allow you to do it by yourself, and when your done just close the bleeder.
#3
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (8)
Re: Brake Parts Are IN!
Originally posted by vipernicus42
1. With the front rotors, is there anything other than the inner bearing that I need to buy new? Does the "seal" come out or do I need a new one? I remember a little rubber washer-like thing coming out last time I took the rotor off, and thought that might be the seal.
1. With the front rotors, is there anything other than the inner bearing that I need to buy new? Does the "seal" come out or do I need a new one? I remember a little rubber washer-like thing coming out last time I took the rotor off, and thought that might be the seal.
2. What's the best way to clear out the old lines? I figured I'd just disconnect them at the calipers and the passenger's wheel cylinder and pump clean brake fluid through them from the master cyl until it runs clear. Good idea or not?[/B]
3. How would you go about getting the air out of the hose that goes over the rear diff when it's replaced? Does the air just naturally go towards the bleed hole on the caliper, or should I fill the hose with brake fluid somehow when installing it?[/B]
Any other pointers from people who've done their brakes would be much appreciated. I have written out what I think is the best procedure here based on what I found in the forum and what I read in my Heynes...so let's hope me and Lawrence (the mechanic friend) don't miss/forget anything
L8rs
Jon [/B]
L8rs
Jon [/B]
#4
GSL-SE PRO
iTrader: (2)
I feel the pain,
I spent 736 dollars for cross drilled rotors for all four.
then 690 for tokico shocks
then 600 for gorund control coil overs and eibach springs...
brutal but the car should handle and have some descent braking.
the pads are KVR carbon kevlar pads with dot 4 brake fluid.
I wanted to get a set of speed bleeders along with those braided lines.
I spent 736 dollars for cross drilled rotors for all four.
then 690 for tokico shocks
then 600 for gorund control coil overs and eibach springs...
brutal but the car should handle and have some descent braking.
the pads are KVR carbon kevlar pads with dot 4 brake fluid.
I wanted to get a set of speed bleeders along with those braided lines.
#5
I'm considering having all my lines pressure bled at the shop...the amount of crap that has come out of my brake lines has been unreal.
Speedbleeders would be nice though as well.
<F>
Speedbleeders would be nice though as well.
<F>
#6
Got Boost?
Ever tried the engine vacuum approach to bleeding lines. You take a bottle and you drill two holes in the lid big enough for some clear fish tank hose. Epoxy one hose with only an inch of it in the bottle, the other almost touching the bottom of the bottle. hook the short-side hose to a vacuum port on the engine, and the other on the bleeder valve. Turn on the engine and watch as the vacuum pulls the brake fluid from the brakes into the bottle, making sure the master cylinder always has fluid. When its clear, just tightem the bleeder and turn off the engine.
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#9
Originally posted by fatboy7
Ever tried the engine vacuum approach to bleeding lines. You take a bottle and you drill two holes in the lid big enough for some clear fish tank hose. Epoxy one hose with only an inch of it in the bottle, the other almost touching the bottom of the bottle. hook the short-side hose to a vacuum port on the engine, and the other on the bleeder valve. Turn on the engine and watch as the vacuum pulls the brake fluid from the brakes into the bottle, making sure the master cylinder always has fluid. When its clear, just tightem the bleeder and turn off the engine.
Ever tried the engine vacuum approach to bleeding lines. You take a bottle and you drill two holes in the lid big enough for some clear fish tank hose. Epoxy one hose with only an inch of it in the bottle, the other almost touching the bottom of the bottle. hook the short-side hose to a vacuum port on the engine, and the other on the bleeder valve. Turn on the engine and watch as the vacuum pulls the brake fluid from the brakes into the bottle, making sure the master cylinder always has fluid. When its clear, just tightem the bleeder and turn off the engine.
Now that is kinda cool! Good thinkin.
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