Brainstorming on Engine Mounting Issue
Arent you in california........
And "you dont have an effective means of paying over seas"?
Have you tried a bank? Interac money transfer or paypal(both can be done online all you need is an email adress), wire transfer, bank draft, money order, cheque, cashiers cheque, travellers cheque, western union (dont recommend as its expensive), other unmentioned escrow servies.......
As for getting screwed by ebay, thats why you use paypal.
And what part of emissions are you concerned about? The visual or the emissions output? Because I am failing to see how 2 oil inputs is different to 4?
And "you dont have an effective means of paying over seas"?
Have you tried a bank? Interac money transfer or paypal(both can be done online all you need is an email adress), wire transfer, bank draft, money order, cheque, cashiers cheque, travellers cheque, western union (dont recommend as its expensive), other unmentioned escrow servies.......
As for getting screwed by ebay, thats why you use paypal.
And what part of emissions are you concerned about? The visual or the emissions output? Because I am failing to see how 2 oil inputs is different to 4?
Thread Starter
Wrkn Toyota, Rootn Wankel
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,642
Likes: 1
From: "Haystack" Hayward, CA
Yeah, I think I am going to go with a pay pal account, despite the horror stories I hear...
As for the emissions thing I have no freaking clue.
I just remember some older thread some one was asking if tehy could use a 12A cover instead and someone mentioned that it works but it will affect emissions., of course that was also for a TII swap if that makes any difference?
I never dicked around with my 12A OMP nor the S4 engine's one that I have yet either so I have no clue how they would affect the emissions differently?
I was going by what you guys said on the OMP thing, if you say it works and doesn't fail me for Smog then I might go ahead and use it.
As for the emissions thing I have no freaking clue.
I just remember some older thread some one was asking if tehy could use a 12A cover instead and someone mentioned that it works but it will affect emissions., of course that was also for a TII swap if that makes any difference?I never dicked around with my 12A OMP nor the S4 engine's one that I have yet either so I have no clue how they would affect the emissions differently?
I was going by what you guys said on the OMP thing, if you say it works and doesn't fail me for Smog then I might go ahead and use it.
Because the 12A OMP puts out the same amount of oil, it should not affect emissions.
Last edited by PercentSevenC; Oct 27, 2008 at 02:02 PM.
we dont care what you end up doing, unless you post us some pics of your car, running successfully with the mods we all reccomend!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
"ebay screwed me".......it happens
"paypal sounds dodgy".....transfer cash another way dude
"I have no money".....so sell your car you dont deserve it
"and no workshop".....
"no time to work on my car".....until recently you were unemployed?????
"someone said that wouldnt work"....?
"someone said it would work"......?
"should i premix".....?
"Oh but the OMP 2 or 4 lines, will it effect emissions, what do i do".....?
"If i premix my car wont pass emissions"
your no demon spawn your a whining bitch!!!!!!
Spend more time when you're looking for auctions on ebay, all you need to do is check out their feedback/history and use Paypal. I have had 200+ transactions on ebay, absolutely nothing wrong.
Thread Starter
Wrkn Toyota, Rootn Wankel
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,642
Likes: 1
From: "Haystack" Hayward, CA
I know I am being hella whiny aren't I? >.<
As for the Ebay thing, its not about purchasing it was in issue with Ebay themselves and their Shitty Customer Service running me i circles for almost a year...
As for the Ebay thing, its not about purchasing it was in issue with Ebay themselves and their Shitty Customer Service running me i circles for almost a year...
Not only are you being whiny, you're being indecisive. The 12A front cover will work fine, Period. Run the 2 lines up to the engine, then tee them. You can use the S4 MOP rod, but you will need to drill out the rod hole in the MOP lever arm because the S4 rods are a larger diameter than the 1st gens.
What you haven't mentioned is are you going carb or keeping the FI? I assume FI from the SE fuel tank question. If you're having trouble deciding on engine mounting, I'd hate to see all the questions you'll ask modding the wiring for FI. As far as needing an SE tank since it has the internal cup for FI, research surge tanks instead as a viable option. This setup usually requires both a low and high pressure fuel pumps You will also need to up size the fuel supply line, (5/16-3/8"). You can use the oem supply line as a return to save a little coin. Other option is to find a set of SE supply/return lines. That would make installing an oem SE fuel pump easier.
Keep in mind that while installing a newer engine is CARB legal, it will need to pass emission specs for the year of the newer engine.
I know modding/upgrading on a tight budget can be daunting/frustrating. Key to success is lots of research and determined tight *** shopping. Good luck.
What you haven't mentioned is are you going carb or keeping the FI? I assume FI from the SE fuel tank question. If you're having trouble deciding on engine mounting, I'd hate to see all the questions you'll ask modding the wiring for FI. As far as needing an SE tank since it has the internal cup for FI, research surge tanks instead as a viable option. This setup usually requires both a low and high pressure fuel pumps You will also need to up size the fuel supply line, (5/16-3/8"). You can use the oem supply line as a return to save a little coin. Other option is to find a set of SE supply/return lines. That would make installing an oem SE fuel pump easier.
Keep in mind that while installing a newer engine is CARB legal, it will need to pass emission specs for the year of the newer engine.
I know modding/upgrading on a tight budget can be daunting/frustrating. Key to success is lots of research and determined tight *** shopping. Good luck.
Thread Starter
Wrkn Toyota, Rootn Wankel
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,642
Likes: 1
From: "Haystack" Hayward, CA
If I remember correctly, my shell has the return lines on it still...
I'll have to check it out later.
As for wiring... I have a full S4 Harness including all the moules that I was going to cut up and ad to the existing harness. I'm still double checking both FSM before cutting up the harness.
I am not sure I follow you on the 'cup' in the gas tank though.
I'll have to check it out later.
As for wiring... I have a full S4 Harness including all the moules that I was going to cut up and ad to the existing harness. I'm still double checking both FSM before cutting up the harness.
I am not sure I follow you on the 'cup' in the gas tank though.
Just a word of warning, making that wiring harness, assuming you do it right and not half assed is a lot of work, and takes hours to do.
The cup in the gas tank is the "slosh baffle" that surrounds the fuel pump assembly to make sure it always sucks fuel, even when the fuel level is low and you are cornering etc. The carb'd fuel tanks won't have this since a 100% constant flow of fuel is not as nessesary on a carb'd car as a FI car...
The cup in the gas tank is the "slosh baffle" that surrounds the fuel pump assembly to make sure it always sucks fuel, even when the fuel level is low and you are cornering etc. The carb'd fuel tanks won't have this since a 100% constant flow of fuel is not as nessesary on a carb'd car as a FI car...
Thread Starter
Wrkn Toyota, Rootn Wankel
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,642
Likes: 1
From: "Haystack" Hayward, CA
Just a word of warning, making that wiring harness, assuming you do it right and not half assed is a lot of work, and takes hours to do.
The cup in the gas tank is the "slosh baffle" that surrounds the fuel pump assembly to make sure it always sucks fuel, even when the fuel level is low and you are cornering etc. The carb'd fuel tanks won't have this since a 100% constant flow of fuel is not as nessesary on a carb'd car as a FI car...
The cup in the gas tank is the "slosh baffle" that surrounds the fuel pump assembly to make sure it always sucks fuel, even when the fuel level is low and you are cornering etc. The carb'd fuel tanks won't have this since a 100% constant flow of fuel is not as nessesary on a carb'd car as a FI car...
As for the wiring harness, I won't disagree on the work... its a **** load of research and measure twice before cutting...
You're right the pump is external on the SE, but the pickup for the tank still needs to be constantly submerged in fuel for FI to work correctly. The principle is the same as the FC tank, it keeps the pickup contantly surrounded by fuel even when the fuel is low and you are taking a turn etc.
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