Hi,
I have a 12a with a turbo setup and I am running a weber 45sidedraft. I have not removed the choke like ive read you should do. Ive found that my car just wont start when its cold out unless i use the choke, pumping the **** out of the pedal only gets it to fire then die immediately. I have noticed that if I boost for a little while then pull over, there is fuel on the intake manifold below the choke.
Is there a way block of the small area where the fuel is coming out but still retain the choke mechanism for fuel enrichment. I just love the choke, but dont like the fact fuel could possibly reach my hot turbo.
Thanks

 

Weber don't have chokes, that implys an additional butterfly, the have starter circuits instead. I'm not up on boost prepping a Weber, you might contact Robert at RotaryShack for that.

 

Is it clean or dirty fuel, and did you Boost prep the Weber or just trow it on there????

 

As far as boost prepping, ive sealed all the threads and have the solid floats. I was told that those 2 things plus blocking the starter circuit( choke, whatever, sorry) was all that was needed. Of course i may be wrong but to be honest, besides the small fuel leak around the starter mechanism, my car runs amazing while under any sort of load.
When first taking off i have to blip the throttle a tiny bit and get the revs up or it will stall. And also at cruise at about 3000rpm i do get a constant stutter. And i know i need bigger pump squirter jets because when ever i go about 1/2-full throttle quickly it basically stalls. I think they are 45's.

 

yah up the jeting, and did you seal the butterfly???? you should have taken them/it out and put o rings inside and out to seal leacks from there.

 

what fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator are you running?

 

Aeromotive 13302( i think) 1:1 3-15 psi adj, Walbro 190. Bent up new 3/8 fuel feed and return lines. I really doubt i am having any fuel delivery problems. My car runs absolutely great under boost and any load at all. Literally feels like the stock nikki. The only problems i am having with it are a stumble just of idle and at cruise. At cruise its basically just holding a steady rpm above 3000. For examble if im just slowly driving thru a parking lot in 1st gear if i let the revs reach about 3000 it just starts poping and stumbling like an ignition misfire or something, if i do the same thing but in second gear(travelling faster) the symptoms are still there but not so bad. If im on a main road travelling about 80kmh in 4th(rpm 3500 or so, then i get a constant RRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRaaRRRRRRRRRRRRRRaRRRRRRRRRRRRR aRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRaRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRaRRRRRRRRRRRRaRR RR, if I then change to 5th its smooth(3000rpm). To take off smoothly i rev it up a little 1500-1800 and slip out the clutch and then slowly apply throttle until i feel the car is smooth again. If I then slam the accelerator pedal the car just stalls, basically at any rpm. I think the problem is in the idle jets and pump squirters? I have a wideband and egt that im welding the bungs into the exhaust tommorow. So that should help me in tuning a bit. I really dont know if the off idle stumble is due to lack of fuel or to much.
I cant quite recall my jetting but i think
f11 etubes
65f9 idles
45weber with 38 chokes
45 pump jets
Fuel pressure 6psi
My goal is to have it run just as smooth as when i had the stock nikki. Possible???
So should i remove and block the fuel enrichment mechanism??
Thanks guys

 

what main jets and air correctors are you running. I'm willing to bet your air correctors are too big. that's exactly what my problem was. I moved to 120's and it smoothed out. You need to investin a weber jet guage, 90% of the box of jets I have are incorrectly labled. so it could be that too. I had some 65f9's that were actually 65f6's (WAAAY Lean)./ you want bigger pump jets too, i ran 55's but I think they were a little small. the problem is that every engine and every car is a little different so you neeed to buy a bunch of jets and see what works. Plus your elevation and local weather trends come into account when running a high power carb application. Yes you need a good seal on th starter circut.

This book might help too
http://www.matthewnanney.com/images/Carb/

 

I fabbed up a 3" exhaust today and installed my wideband. My idle is about 11:1 and under boost im about 12.5:1. I will be doing a tune sometime soon with a guy who has about $1200 worth of weber tuning parts.

So not to be rude, but nobody has acually said if i should remove and block-off the starter mechaism for a boosted weber? If you know, please share.

 

I would be really interested to know too... I am running a 48mm dellorto sidedraft, and am having the same fuel leak problem... should you block off the starter mech???

 

although I don't have the stalling issue... I rigged the choke open a little bit to keep the fuel from pouring out when I come off hard throttle. I know I am not jetted right, but I don't want to start jetting until I know I'm not blowing any boost out those holes...

 

Its been awhile since I first posted this but since then I have fully resealed the carb and verified that fuel is defineltly coming from the starter mechanism. I havent been driving the car to much but will be just making a block off plate.

I have also been chasing a weird bogging problem which I use to never have. If I slam the throttle in first gear, I basically just stop accelerating and kinda buck,backfire,etc...no power. 2nd gear is fine. I set my float level and nothing changed, its acually worse. So i think my progression circuit needs tuning. Maybe i should post a vid of my a/f guage when this happens.

Good luck