is it alright to soak a rotor with the seals "side seals for compression not rubber seals" still on it in b12 chemtool carb cleaner, or will this eat the seals also what compounds do you generally use to pollish the housings.

 

If you plan on replacing the rubber o-rings, drop the entire rotor in. I'm guessing/hoping you're polishing the housings on the outside. Check Caswell Plating. Iirc, they have a polishing forum.

 

should i not pollish the inner portion of the housings?

 

also i plan to put a port on this motor, what kind of port will the niki carb be able to handle. i would like to do a bridge port but im not sure what all needs to be beefed up. im purchasing the gasket kit through black dragon. and new apex seals are coming from mazda.

also most of this motor is going to be a 79 will my 85 rotor housing fit in the 79 plates or will this become an issue aswell

 

The nikki is good on a stock port nothing else. Maybe Sterling modded can fit on a street port, but if you are going to port it, then get all the horses you can.

 

You should not polish the inner housing surface, in fact, rough it up a little with 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper. Sand wet with oil/water for a lube using a backing pad and clean thoroughly. If you bridgeport you will need a 48 mm ida, dcoe or dhla for a 1/2 bp, 48-51 mm ida for a full bp.

 

well im going to put some time in building this motor cause i want to do it right the first time. ide really like to have the bridge port because i love the sound it produces but how reliable is a bridge ported motor going to be ide really like to get at least 150000 miles out of the new motor. does that seam realistic, also what kind of power diff will i see between the 1/2 and full bridge.

 

i also plan to build my own intake and exhaust manifolds

what cfm do i need to flow for the 1/2 or full bridge motor

 

ive seen a few guys (mostly ricans) running at least a holley 600

 

thanks for the links

and info im kind of shy of going with the dual carb setup i would rather be able to just run a holley or eddy off a home made mani. i can pick up a holley 650 from a friend real cheap w/ all sorts of jets and mods done, think this would be alright for a bridge.

what kind of power gains could i see if i just went w/ a really aggressive streeet port.

 

You will not get 150k out of used housing. Bridgeports are built to run in the upper rev range, power comes on between 4-5k on a 1/2 bridge and goes well past 8k. Full bridge will can run even higher with reliability mods. This is not a good choice for a long term engine.

 

then i will be going w/ the street port on this one.

i know there are a few places to get the templates for marking the ports.

any suggestions on which would be best or would yeild the most bang for buck?

or do i even need a template?

 

Template is a must. Mild, Racing Beat, wild, Judge Ito.

 

Bridge ports are high rpm motors, and motors operated at high rpms do not live as long as motors operated at low rpms. A street port is for street driving.

Used rotor housings will not give you a 150,000 mile motor.

You need to plan on resurfacing your iron side housings as well.

 

can the irons be lapped in the shed or do they need to go to a shop?

also what is the best method for breaking the fly wheel nut, it looks like someone beat it off with a punch and hammer last time.

judge ito is a site ???

 

Lapping irons is not generaly a DIY. They need to be speced for wear, then sent out if needed and very few places even have the equipment or knowledge to lap irons. Racing Beat and Rotary Shack are the 1st two shops that come to mind though there are others.

Judge Ito can be found over at NoPistons,com.

Flywheel nut, an impact hammer. Break the e-shaft bolt loose 1st when tearing down an engine. It's often jarder to break loose than the flywheel nut, even though torque spec is 80-98 ft-lb.

 

i found no pistons and the ito threads though they are devoid of pics of his porting

thanks for the tip on the e-shaft bolt, i was goig to leave it for last.

anyone know a place near odessa texas they would trust w/ the iron work?

 

where do you buy your chem dip b12 i have some here but im running out

 

auto zone is your friend, i bought 6, 1 gallon cans and put most of it in a steel 5 gallon can i "borrowed" from the rig i work. cant recall what the cost was though i think its around $16.00 a can..

 

Im running a bridge ported motor using 13b gsl-se housings 12a plates racing beat holley intake and a 650 vacume second. Runs good runs hard but then again it's not my daily grind just my track car!!!

 

mine only has two make 2 trips a week. 1 two the rig then 1 back home. problem is that trip could be 500 to 1000 miles one way. so its got to be somewhat reliable

 

i acually considered that same build since i have a 13b but its from an 88 and i think the o-ring grooves are differant then the 85 13b

 

well i finally pulled the engine apart today, both housings are scrap. the rear housing spit the apex seal and imbedded most of said seals into its respective rotor pretty sweet ehh... front rotor housing is chatter marked from hell (what causes this) other wise the front rotor is like new along w/ the irons, they show nearly no wear at all also the apex seals are 2 piece and the motor seems to have a stock port. are 2 piece seals stock i thought they wear one piece? any how ill be waiting on ports and parts for a while i guess.
time for some of that good old glass work and painting...