Well I have a RacingBeat intake,and some of you know it does not have coolant passages through it,so some people plug the hole with a quarter (like I did) or get the o rings..

Well I do alot of research here... and saw Carl post about 2 weeks ago to use a 20 mm freeze plug,well I went to Autozone and got it and put it in the hole and used a 11/16 1/2in drive deep socket to band it in the hole..it fits nice and if you had to take off the intake you wont loose coolant..

Thanks Carl

 

Your welcome! It cheap too, like what $1.00?

 

Yeap $1.00 a plug

I was going to go to the thieving route..but I didnt want to get a boot in the back of my neck so I just payed..

It went in nice and flush ..

Its one of the best thing you can do to the housings.. but make sure you dont go back to the stock set up ...or can you run this on the stock intake?

 

I do on the racecar, and soon on the streetcar as well.

 

Ok now.... should I block the passage throug the water pump housing? the small hole?

I want the cooling to be as good as possible..
Im going to be running a cooler thermostat..and a Feiro fan we just got one for my friend like 4 days ago ..he put it in and I checked it last night and that bitch blows..

 

The bypass? its not necessary from what Ive read as long as you use a Mazda thermostat. I use an autozone t-stat and I never blocked the bypass, although I prolly should. And dont run the water too cold or power will suffer. Oh and on mazspeed they say that the ford escort fan blows away the fiero fan.

 

Keep in mind my port work ..engine temps will probally be higher..Im gonan check into that fan ..

Im going to go look for that link..

 

Higher than a road racer running hard lap after lap?

 

Well hell..your not making this easy on me..lol

Maybe ill take the housing to AUtozone.. see if I can find another freeze plug..

Wheres Direct Freak..he was about the only other person who knew what i was talking about when I posted this a month back

 

Just run an OEM Mazda thermostat. You don't need to block anything. The reason people plug them up is because they don't run a thermostat, and then the car heats up becuase the waterflow is caught in a loop between the two holes.

 

Can I get diffrent temp OEM thermostats?

I think I have seen 160/170 and 180
I dont even know the OEM temp thermostat,and you know how hot the FL roads get

 

There are a few thermostats. The stock computer on FI cars requires warmer tempertures to operate correctly, otherwise the mixture will be too rich. It never gets out of the "warm-up" cycle. On the FD, mazda really screwed up, and made the operating temp over 200 degrees F., with the E-Fans kicking in about the same temp. With an operating temperture range so close to boiling, it's no wonder that FD's usually cook their engines.

Since you are running an aftermarket carb, get the one you like. On my car, I have the 180 degree one, since the Haltech doesn't care, and can be set any which way.

 

I want to get an manual fan thermostat,

So say I get a 180 stat,should I set the fan at 181 or 179?

 

While the thermo fans don't kick in til a high temperature, the thermostat is still the same as all the other 13BTs. Thermo fans shouldn't be activating unless the vehicle is at or under 10kph, or the air con is on. If they do, the radiator is underdone. This is more the issue I think - a better aluminium radiator would keep the temperatures down more.

That being said, most new vehicles run at temperatures similar to or higher than the FD. The engineers saw fit to install a much higher pressure cap on the FD than other rotaries in order to raise the boiling point to compensate. The only negative of this is higher chance of hose rupture. Remember that 33% glycol coolant at 20psi boils at well over 130 degrees C (250 degrees F?).