Hey guys, I just put a new master cylinder and I was wondering where to start on the bleeding?

So far I did passanger back wheel and then did passanger front wheel and finaly drive side wheel. Is that correct?

 

I don't think it matters just a bunch, but I think you go passanger rear, driver rear, passanger front, driver front. Each wheel moves you closer to the master cylinder.

 

Start with the farthest away and move around. Pass rear,drivers rear, pass front, drive front.

 

That the same order I did it. I assume you have the rear drum brakes, thus have no driver side (rear) bleed valve. Just my $.02- I 'flushed' the old fluid out a while back by basically bleeding out each line until the fluid coming out was clear (DOT-4) and it made a HUGE difference in the firmness of the pedal.

 

I was told don't use anything but Dot 3 due to something I forgot. I know my brake right now is a bit light due to some air in the line which I have to re-bleed it but is hard doing it by your self.

 

Either get someone to help, or use a vacuum pump to bleed the brakes. There is another option of speed bleeders, which replace the bleeder valves, and have a check valve built in.
But you were working in the right order, for a drum brake car. For rear disc brakes, you would move from pass rear, to driver rear, before moving to the front.
Sometimes air can get trapped in the driver side rear wheel cylinder, if you have the rear of the car raised, but it's rather rare.
If you did not bleed the master cylinder before hooking up the lines, there could have been a little air trapped in it, that worked it's way out after a few times of applying the brakes.

 

I installed the Russell speed bleeders. They cost about $23 for the 4 of them, well worth the money!

 

Either DOT 3 or 4 is fine.

 

did you bench bleed the master cylinder before you put it in??????????/
if you didnt do that you will never get the brakes right until you do.

 

did you bench bleed the master cylinder before you put it in??????????/
if you didnt do that you will never get the brakes right until you do.
i just did a master cylinder in my 85 gs and now the brakes are perfect

 

While bench bleeding makes brake bleeding easier, it is not a must do.

 

I have did that, but today I got this speed bleeder with a bottle and made my life much easier. I re-bleeded all my wheels and the cluch. Now is better and more firm than it was yesterday.

 

You don't need to bench bleed and it makes it a pain in the *** to install the mc without spilling fluid all over the place.

The best way is to bolt the mc in, fill it with fluid and let it sit. Once fluid flows out of each port you connect the lines and you're ready to bleed the system.

 

And brake fluid eats paint. Spilt brake fluid is a good way to give rust a head start. Repairing rust under the clutch and brake masters requires removing a lot of parts. If spilt, spray the area down with brake cleaner.

 

That is true, dot 4 can break down under our pressure systems i do believe, i know that i put it in my honda once (dot 3 only) and it basically turned to glue in the lines.

Um...rebled?

Yes brakefluid will basically eat any paint off any surface, make sure not to get any ANYWHERE!

 

I have never had any problems with DOT-4 and it makes a big difference on the track with brake fade. My bet is that for daily-driver / street use you wouldnt notice the difference.

 

I went to Harbor Freight and got a cheep vacume bleeder, like $25.00. Worth every penny. Made the bleading process much easier.