the door piece of my side molding/trim is off and i need to glue it back on, whats a good thing to use?

 

outdoor cilicone??...i dunno go to an auto shop around you...they should be able to hook you up

 

try epoxy or some polyurethane window sealant

 

yea i was thinking ,maybe silicon, but i dunno how hard itll be to hold the trim in place while it dries. guess ill figure something out though, i have some black trim glue, but its mainly for small lightweight trim, not the huge heavy trim off the 7's, ill try it too if the silicon doesnt work

 

Sikaflex is your friend!

 

gorilla snot?

 

nothing else

 

gorilla glue expands...probably wouldn't work unless you use a very small amount.

 

RacerX7fb has it right. Silicone looks like **** and can screw up future paint jobs if not removed properly.

If in doubt, take a trim piece the local autobody paint supplier, they will point you in the right direction.

 

Double sided tape and urethane is the way to go.

 

I used the stuff RacerX7fb shows and it works perfectly, you can cut it in really tight with a razor blade. Get the wide stuff (about 1"). If you get it from Wal Mart it will be about half as much as from a car parts store.

Stick it to the back of the side molding first, then cut around the outside with the razor blade. Peal the other side of the tape and stick it on. Be sure to line it up carefully before pressing it on, it's not coming off easily.

Ray

 

If I can add to this.

If you heat your side trim up a little bit with a heat gun or a hair dryer the tape will stick to it even better. As well as when you are going to put it on the car make sure the surface is nice and warm for the best adhesion.

Also you will find that if your trim has been hanging for a while it will be naturally bent. The heat gun or hair dryer will allow you bend the moldings back into the right shape.

I used the 1/2 inch stuff one strip on top and one strip on bottom. Been on for almost a year and no problems.

Jay
1984 FB

 

3M PT1100 is what the OEM suppliers use.

 

used the 3m molding tape, and no go, i guess its the fact the back of the trim is slightly dry rotted and has a lot of air pockets and cracks and the tape just wouldnt stick for ****. cleaned it really well, scraped old glue and tape off for almost an hour, cleaned it with paint thinner to get any oil or greese off of it. stuff wouldnt stick. guess its on to 2ply epoxy

 

Not sure if this is helpful, but it may be interesting to you...
3M ST1200 is applied to extruded polymers during the manufacturing process; and heat aids the adhesive property. PT1100 is used on smaller pieces that are molded. Keep in mind that this is used on "new" stock. Heptane or IPA is often used as a pre-cleaner.
I am pretty sure that the side moldings were extruded and the endcap details were molded in a secondary process. So, maybe prep with IPA or heptane. Then, try the ST1200 rolled through a manual-crank tight-clearance ringer-type device and a heatgun. We do this on prototype thermoplastic products.

 

Paint thinner is your problem. It leaves a film and the adhesive will not bond to it. The foam strip should have enough 'squish' to mate to a slightly irregular surface. Both mating surfaces must be absolutely clean for good bonding and longevity. Laquer thinner, MEK, acetone will work, but you must be careful of the paint as some of these are too 'hot' for the paint and can soften it. Your best option is wax and grease remover from your autobody paint supplier. Lacquer thinner and 0000 steel wool works great for cleaning up the moulding off the car. On the car, paint thinner or mineral spirts are a better choice. Be sure to mask off the paint when using the steel wool on the car. Mothers Back to Black works great returning the moulding to a new condition.

 

well ****, all i had was paint thinner, so it had to do, or i thought it would do anyway. the trim is painted so the outside looks great. guess saturday ill try again with something else and clean it better this time, i didnt use any steel wool cause i was racing the sun (not smart to rush projects)

 

3m double sided tape is definitely the way to hold it on. I had a piece fall off mine too. Here's the process I followed (which worked 120% perfect)

Clean molding with acetone. Note that acetone melts a little (microns) of the plastic, so make sure you only get it on the back side. Many paper towels later the molding will be clean.

Clean side of car with a degreasing agent. Make it 100% grease/oil free.

Apply two layers of 3m tape. I noticed the factory sticky tape was slightly thicker than the 3m, that's why I put two layers.

Heat the molding and the side of the car with a hair dryer until good and warm.

Apply the molding, press it firmly in place for a couple of minutes, and put large pieces of masking tape across the molding. Leave overnight, and remove masking tape.

Done, but I defy you to get it back off again!

 

I am gonna heve to do this does it work the 3m stuff? Any 1 elese had this problem? Yes i know bring it back but its not really that old of a tread.

 

If you plan on getting a paintjob anytime soon then just peel it off. My friend did this and it looks good without it. Good luck

 

yea for me its not a big peice its the small peice in the back on the driver side. you can see it missing in my pic.

 

Oh, I didn't even see the date. Not as bad as some other ancient threads

 

The trim piece on the driver's rear is the first to go due to gas spillage. Make sure both the trim and body are clean and free of any leftover hydrocarbons. Denatured alcohol works well. All of the old adhesive needs removed too.

 

A good warm detergent wash will remove any residual oil or grease that might keep the tape from binding, followed by an alcohol rub if you want to be real clean about it. The stuff works real good, too good if you put the strip on a little bit crooked.

Ray