anjhindul

I just rebuilt my old 12a a second time. the car now starts when I use the oil in the rear rotor and runs for a while. Got it up to 20 minutes after warmup and had her idling at 7-800 RPM then she died compression was good before but now I am getting 25 15 15 AFTER she dies.

it kind of feels as if she holds compression for a while (can't really check this while the engine is running can I?) then suddenly loses it. oil pressure is good oil is getting to the engine both via the carbs and to the rotors behind the rings. I am honestly at a loss.

TheRX7Project

iTrader: (3)

Definitely due to expansion somewhere when the operating surfaces get warm.

You "just rebuilt it for the second time" as in, you rebuilt it once and it was fine, then rebuilt it again? Or, you rebuilt it and it didn't run, so you tore it back down?

anjhindul

rebuilt once no bueno would not run for anything bad compression in rear rotor.

I tore her down put her back together started up JUST fine ran for a bit... now she wont start at all... WTH how am I going to fix this?!? im out of money and need her running

anjhindul

OK UPDATE TIME! I just did yet another compression test. I am getting a consistent 45-60 psi rear rotor not 100% on the exact number I know this is low but this SHOULDN'T stop the engine from running.

is it possible that my 3-6 month old fuel is bad? how can I test this? i took some out and lit it with a lighter it burned pretty well but I know I want it to EXPLODE inside the engine not just burn and that requires compression. is it possible the gas doesn't have ENOUGH 'gas' for the compression/spark to ignite it properly?

PS Front rotor has 80-90 PSI

anjhindul

I ran the car for an hour (72 miles) today driving freeway speed rear rotor runs ok at around 4k+ rpm. I am now thinking I should have had the irons machined... but after calling around a hundred shops and getting "we don't do engines" and "I have never heard of a rotary we cant do that" I gave up.

I have much less power because of the rear rotor's low compression but I can do 50 and SLOWLY climb in 5th gear.

backstory on the rebuild. The rear rotor apex seal failed and ripped up my old housing/rotor I replaced BOTH rotors and housings from Atkins and I am now thinking the rear or center iron has some additional wear due to the wolverine attack by the APEX.

any thoughts are much appreciated.

anjhindul

I had one last thought... is it possible Atkins mixed a low compression rotor in with my order? I purchased a pair (of rotors) from Atkins and just had the thought maybe I have a low compression rotor back there...

IF that is the case (heck ya!) I am half way to having the pair of low compression rotors I want for my turbo project I will be starting when I have about 5k saved heh

anjhindul

I know my other questions have yet to be answered but I just thought about the fuel check valve... it is blowing both directions with any pressure... I DONT think this is helping... anyone know if I must replace it? and if so who should I get it from?

Keeble

iTrader: (3)

Ok, mismatched rotors won't make that bug of a difference in compression, I suggest raking the engine apart and following the fsm to the t and you will find what's wrong

Qingdao

iTrader: (3)

Took me a few times to get my first right.

anjhindul

I followed it to the T the first time and second :cry: first time I had really low compression in the rear rotor AKA a stuck seal so I took it apart put it back together now she has MUCH better rear rotor compression.... just not good enough lolol 15 psi first ... ya... now it is running about 50... still need another 35 lol going to do another compression test now that I have put 250miles on her (she runs a lot stronger now then at first) see what it looks like. While I am at it I will be changing the oil out because I put sin-thetic in there before I knew it was... less then savy? heh will be replacing with a non-blend minimum additive oil, got to thank those dinos

as a note I am still having to use oil every startup and it takes a LOT of oil to do a hot start lolol found that out at the gas station 2 days ago... lolol everyone honking and waving at me I felt so loved!

anjhindul

ok compression test is being very... erratic
did 3 different tests just now and it would seem I have a week starter/bad battery as well as poor compression as the front rotor got 30psi... and rear got 15-25 as in 15 25 25 first and 3rd tests but with the charger on I got 90 front and 60 60 60 rear...

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

If your not spinning to engine at least ~200-250 RPM, it will give low numbers. Also, are you disabling fuel while running the test? If not the fuel will wash the oil away and give low numbers.

Are you sure this isn't a carb issue?

anjhindul

im not sure of anything any longer. the RPM is running about 1-200 I am thinking I have a week starter/bad battery and I am not to sad if the starter needs replacing...

I got paid 150 to take it... brand new lolol the person handed it to me and gave me 150 for the old one I said but I haven't paid for this one yet... he said My system says you did so i talked to the manager and he said he couldn't charge me if the computer said I had already paid for it... oh well

and then I know the rear is not firing right it sounds funny while running. after the rebuild I couldn't even try to idle near 1500 had to keep it 2000+ now I can idle at around 900 but the idle mixture screw is NOT effecting my idle... I have put it all the way in and almost all the way out... no difference... before rebuild I took idle almost all the way out and it idled around 3k... and put it in till it was idling at 200... anyone have any more advice?

PS how would I go about testing the carb? get a replacement and put it on?

anjhindul

just replaced starter ya it was week now I am getting spikes of 900-1100 didnt help... still have shitty compression in the rear rotor and it looks worse then the first time I did it... ima give it 500more miles then take it apart and have the irons machined... I dont care what those idiots say at the machine shops

anjhindul

500 more miles and IF there is no improvement then take apart^ woops left part of it out

anjhindul

alright it would seem the engine is seizing one of the APEX seals... but it is not doing this immediate after rebuild only after about 100 miles... is it possible one of the seals is not getting any lubrication? (when I take it apart all the apex/corner seals just fall/fly out) how would I test this?

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

its not possible for just one of the seals to not get lubrication. it is possible that one of the two rotors isn't getting lubrication. that is easy to check/fix, you can dump some oil in the gas, and see if it gets better.

anjhindul

alright I will now try oil in the gas I will start searching for the proper mix and any links much appreciated