A bit of history:
My first car purchase on my own at 19yrs old was a 79, and after 20 years I found myself in an 80! It sure brings back memories.... but when I was 19 all I did was drive it into the dirt (also before super Internet help)

Anyway I have a couple simple questions to get me started:



1994




2016

 

1st question is relating to Master Clutch Cylinders and Slaves:

Ive checked the normal spots:
racing beat/Mazdatrix/Blackdragon
but the prices are pretty high and dont give very good descriptions on make or specs
(which in 79-80 were pretty specific, I believe)

but I keep running into ebay pricing at around 25 bucks for (Centric 136.45101)

and something tells me that everybody gets them from the same place???

Any words of advice or caution?

 

Welcome back. We get them from rockauto.com now.

 

Do you know what kind of quality differences you get with:

Centric vs Dorman vs Beck?

1980 MAZDA RX-7 1.1L R2 Clutch Master Cylinder | RockAuto

 

I'm with Jeff, ebay can have some good deals but rockauto is consistent and reliable, they have an excellent parts catalog and supply access and they take stuff back without question if there's a problem.

With a little fenagling you can save some bucks by limiting the shipping costs from as few locations as possible.

That looks like a very special white SA! Post some more photos when you get a chance.

 

went ahead and ordered:

BECK/ARNLEY0728098 (072-8098)Clutch Master Cylinder$ 26.79$ 0.001$ 26.79 BECK/ARNLEY0726786 (072-6786)Clutch Slave Cylinder$ 13.52$ 0.001$ 13.52

 

Good deal.

On the quality issue, I think there probably isn't much of any practical consequence, they all meet specs obviously.

Prices don't always tell either, since prices are determined mostly by supply, not quality.

So unless a manufacturer has a reputation for making cheap junk stuff (walmart quality) this should not be an issue.

 

is there a reason I cant find a SS Master to Slave line? Does the 79-80 have some kind of weird coupling?

 

It is a different thread pitch from 81-85.

 

Do you know what specific pitch the 80 uses?

 

It might be better to retrofit something newer into your car. You can still get the 84-85 hardline from Madatrix, and Mazdatrix sells a braided stainless softline that looks good, for 81-85. There might be some minor bending required though.

As for the differences, one is 1.0mm and the other is 1.25mm if I recall correctly, but I don't know which is which. I want to say the older one was 1.0mm.

 

79-80 has "course" which is 1.25mm
81-85 has "fine" which is 1.00mm

You can swap everything over to fine thread by using all FB parts (slave, master cylinder, and plumbing). Since you already ordered the SA parts you can just install those with a new hose. As mentioned, the OEM hose is available. Someone might make a stainless replacement but on a clutch there is no advantage IMO.

 

welcome!
79-80 SS clutch lines were available, keep looking (I'd tell you where I got mine but no records). Use an OE till you find one rather than all the ag of swapping to FB lines...

Stu Aull
80GS (w SS Clutch Line)
Alaska

 

Congrats on your SA, car looks great!

 

Looks awesome. Any additional pics?

 

Welcome aboard. I also bought my first 79 when I was 19. I still have it though and was lucky enough to have other toys to torcher to destruction. I've been happy with the Beck /Arnley products I've purchased over the years. Common mechanical parts for our cars are still available, it's the lack of nice aftermarket interior panels and such that hurts. Unobtainium on the 80 are the chrome covers on the upper edge of the door pulls.

 

The motor is super super clean...and it runs very good. I've just noticed a bit of weeping on the sides of the filler tube and subsequent area....I know I've spilled some oil but it looks like a seem weep. Any reason for concern?

 

Depends upon the amount of weep.
Sounds like the dowel pin O-rings.

I would clean it off till dry with the engine off.
Run it till its warmed up and check again.
If oil has reappeared, wipe it off and see if you can see it reappearing at idle.

If you can actually see the oil coming out at idle, at a higher oil pressure you'll have more coming out.

My 12a was doing this to the point I would wipe it off and 6 seconds later it would reappear. I estimated I would lose 1/2 quart every 10 miles. Yes I was concerned and rebuilt the engine to replace the 0-ring. If you clean it off and 30 miles later you just get a little seeping back, just keep a close eye on your oil level.

Just my opinion.

 

There are some pre-rebuild solutions to this as well that are worth a shot before going full-monte on a rebuild. My 80SA had the same problem and an additive suggested by other Forum members really minimized the problem. It was a stop-leak-type additive, but I am on the road and do not have access to my RXTech files for the name. Others may be able to step up....

Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska

 

if you find out let me know~

 

 

 

^^Very nice!