It depends on who did what with your carb.

Sometimes when people rebuild carbs for the first time, they do things like remove the sealing bushing from the primary throttle shaft. Sometimes the throttle shaft gets twisted and one valve never closes all the way.
Another mistake people sometimes make when rebuilding a carb is adjusting the secondary throttle stop.
The secondary throttle stop is a tiny, unassuming little screw under the secondary vacuum diaphragm that is supposed to serve only one purpose- to keep the secondary valves from jamming closed.
The screw is headless, has a small locking nut, and is coated with silicone to lock it in place.
If this screw has been played with and is adjusted too far in - even a tiny bit, it will do two things- allow more air into the carb, and decrease signal to the idle fuel circuit, both of which will cause a high idle.

If this screw has NOT been tampered with, then adjusting it in an effort to rid yourself of a high idle will not be curing the real problem, and you may just open a HUGE can of worms that will be impossible to fix due to the number of new variables to adjust.

I have successfully fixed idle problems in this manor, but since the screw is not meant for this purpose, it's not threaded very finely, so the tiniest twist can make a BIG difference! Then when I lock the nut, it's out of whack again.

Another trick I've used is to take the secondary idle step jets from another carb, and replace the primary step jets with them. (These are the really small ones on the outer edge of the top of the main body.)
Usually this won't cure an idle problem all by itself, but it can make the lowest idle setting you can get smoother.

You have to never forget, the carburetor is a pile of very crudely machined metal parts put together in an effort to meter fuel and air into your engine with precision.
You get the precision from controlling the leak of a leak.
The idle mixture screw, for example, is nothing more than a very tiny air leak that you can control, but is part of a much bigger leak. (The idle step air jets are the big leak.)
Keeping that in mind can help your judgment when you make carb adjustments.

You really have to check the linkage out first, though. I mean everything! Fast idle linkage, throttle cable, choke cable, deceleration dash-pot, AC idle comp valve, throttle position sensor; everything.