cmanns

On slight inclines, even shifting to 4th I notice I have to be atleast 80% throttle.

Hell in 5th gear normal highway speeds 5th is at 4k rpm is that bad for the engine to be at 6k for long periods

12a engine though :/

Whats odd is sometimes its super powerful and others it's slow esp to how warm it is out side :3

jinxed4dub

iTrader: (7)

Whats normal hwy speeds for you if your at 70mph at 4 grand that's about right. but you shouldn't need to floor it. if you floor my car it pulls hard. as long as your at about 4 grand. 3500 it will still pick up and go, 3000 its kinda sluggish. but that's how our cars work. high end power, not so much low end.

thunkrd

iTrader: (1)

something is wrong with the car... not going to say anything else, since i have an SE... 12a is a whole other story, which i wish i knew more about

Portland82GSL

iTrader: (2)

I had the same problem a while back. I gave it a tune up (new plugs, wires, dizzy cap, oil, and checked the vacuum lines) and it went away. I'd say that's your best bet unless there is something wrong with the motor itself.

jinxed4dub

iTrader: (7)

It could be since your new to the clutch you've destroyed your clutch and now its slipping. it happens to almost all who go from auto to manual, and alot to people who just learned stick first. Also about the clutch not disengaging until your just about to the floor, try bleeding your clutch line. easy to do. but you need a friend to work the peddles. If that doesn't fix it look into replacing the master or slave. are you low on clutch fluid?
Also chances are you may need to rebuild or have your carb rebuilt. check if the teeter totter came off, but that only makes a small difference.


Oh yeah, and tune up your car as portland82gsl said

thunkrd

iTrader: (1)

my slave was shot on my clutch, fluid would disappear... really easy to replace. only took about 20 minutes total time. bring extra brake fluid for it if you don't get it fixed asap... (if you have that problem)

cmanns

The clutch grabs instantly and people say I'm pretty good :/ it was really new i guess a few weeks ago, the shifters a tad jerky but it might need fluid I herd.

I have the urge to make some fresh air duct

Would not having a working omp (appears to not) and not premix that much be very very bad, I just assume the omp works since I'm waiting for my $. The car isnt loosing too much oil the omp might just be leaking a tad and smoking it has new oil... it just seems when its warm out the cars slower and when its rly warm at stops it'll hesitate like it got abunch of warm air.

thunkrd

iTrader: (1)

just put in half a quart of tcw3 each fill up, that should be just about right... its better to spend that extra few dollars now than to have to spend a lot more on a bigger repair later that could have been postponed by proper maintenance and premixing w/ an iffy omp

cmanns

^I'm hoping to drop in a 13b soon but moneys tight, if i run out of premix its 4-7bucks depending on the stores, today I burned through 25 bucks of gas and the tanks empty again lol

its like the car drinks blood for lunch dinner and snacks

I think the gas piping is bad, I noticed gas outside the cap sometimes and when I premix I see it all over the side of the car, but i used a deeep deeep funnel...

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

Based on your ramblings it sounds like a clutch issue. Like its either slipping or not
engaging all the way. Check your slave cylinder to make sure its not sticking.

At 3500 rpm in 5 gear your should be doing about 75 mph and at 4000 rpm
about 80 mph.

80's old school

iTrader: (7)

Are you sure your secondaries are opening? When my secondaries were not opening the car made no power and to get any semblance of power out of it, you would have to floor it.
Now with the carb working right and a full RB street port exhaust system, she pulls great all the way to 125 MPH on the original untouched 30 year old engine!

Kentetsu

You have issues. Find out what they are and fix them. Or, get a Sterling carb (mine will do 100 mph on about 1/8 th throttle. ).



.

blackdeath647

iTrader: (2)

its probably just a tune up, or like some had said clutch slip. but i'd start with the tune up specially if you don't know how long it has been.

i never have to get on the secondaries to go 70mph. hell when i go up the mountains (Boone, NC) very steep climb i can do away with just downshifting to 4th to keep the 55mph posted limit, occasionally downshift to third when it gets extremely steep or just open up the secondaries for a bit. this is in a stockport engine, nikki carb, mechanical secondaries and before i had my RB header put in, who knows how it'd drive towards that way now.

NCross

iTrader: (18)

Tune it up...

-Fuel filter
-Spark plugs
-Lubricate the throttle linkage
-Inspect that the vacuum operated secondaries are functional. You should be able to feel them catch open at about half throttle. There should be a little acceleration burst and the engine will get louder if they're working right.
-Check your timing.
-Inspect catalytic converter for damage that would clog the exhaust flow.
-New plug wires if ou have nappy old ones.
-New distributor cap and rotor.
-Oil change
-Coolant flush and refill with 50-50 mix.
-Bleed brakes and clutch.
-New air filter.
-(If you choose to do so) Run your gas down to about 1 gallon in the tank. Poor the medium sized bottle of SeaFoam into a 2 gallon jug of premium gasoline. Poor it in your car and go out for a 20-25 mile spirited drive making sure to nudge the secondaries open a few times. Fill her back up with 87 ASAP before your running on fumes

One often overlooked problem that causes poor acceleration and reduces gas mileage is a sticky brake caliper. Verify that your calipers are all working properly and not dragging.

jinxed4dub

iTrader: (7)

coolant is suppose to be 90/10 mix I believe

blackdeath647

iTrader: (2)

90/10 is for the cold start assist as far as i know.

Dave Meyers

I had two gsl se's and both were very sensitive to temperature. They were fast until over 70 degrees, then total dogs. I never really looked into the problem. My guess would be fuel or exhaust obstructions. I currently have an '83 with 12A, weber and fairly non restrictive exhaust. The throttle response on highway is excellent, really just need to feather the accelerator to go faster. The power of this 12a does not fluctuate with weather conditions. I used to be able to tell you the temp and humidity just by how the 13Bs were driving.

cmanns

^thats odd, my 2nd gen n/a never had weather problems.

The 2ndaries turn on at what i'd say is 3/4th throttle... it's a huge burst of power always around that much throttle, hell pushing the throttle more isnt rly needed. The pedal has a little stifyiness and then the engine roars

It has new oil, plugs, gas tank it appears. The only thing i could imagine is the coils arnt connected "good" all the wires n such are brittle and old, when I turn on the fan, headlights n stuff i notice the idle change a tad and the car often wont start easy after being stalled when the lights n such are on it'll never catch, as if the spark is weak make sense?

I added premix again (alil extra to be forgiving and filled a whole tank) she seems a lot happier the sound is kinda different, I've noticed always at start up it's got a whiny sound but not alarming still has it with premix but once it warms up (might be because i cant use the choke so i hold the rpms, doesnt the choke rich the mixture n such?)

Oh and the car has a high flow cat thing all the exhaust piping looks newish, rb muffler,has stock manifold though i plan to swap and turbo so i wont bother with headers, it'll shoot to 8k rpm (fuel cut off?) instantly

anyone know what makes a jerky shifter? Doesnt seem temp related I don't really want to remove the shifter. I was told little fluid in there makes it harder, seems to ease up when the car is shaken, doesnt the oil in the shifter need to be above the stuff inside so it's "lubing" it? I ask because it'd help to shift from 5th to 4th quicker when sudden hills come on freeways, I drop about 8mph downshifting...

wecycle

cmanns asked:
The only thing i could imagine is the coils aren't connected "good" all the wires n such are brittle and old, when I turn on the fan, headlights n stuff i notice the idle change a tad and the car often wont start easy after being stalled when the lights n such are on it'll never catch, as if the spark is weak make sense?
This sounds like battery cables and/or grounds

I added premix again (alil extra to be forgiving and filled a whole tank) she seems a lot happier the sound is kinda different, I've noticed always at start up it's got a whiny sound but not alarming still has it with premix but once it warms up (might be because i cant use the choke so i hold the rpms, doesnt the choke rich the mixture n such?)
Check the function and flow rate of the OMP immediately.
Why can't you use the choke?

Oh and the car has a high flow cat thing all the exhaust piping looks newish, rb muffler,has stock manifold though i plan to swap and turbo so i wont bother with headers, it'll shoot to 8k rpm (fuel cut off?) instantly

anyone know what makes a jerky shifter? Doesnt seem temp related I don't really want to remove the shifter. I was told little fluid in there makes it harder, seems to ease up when the car is shaken, doesnt the oil in the shifter need to be above the stuff inside so it's "lubing" it? I ask because it'd help to shift from 5th to 4th quicker when sudden hills come on freeways, I drop about 8mph downshifting
Sounds like a trans fluid change to a high quality lube might be helpful. If you use the forum search function you will find several threads on these issues.

cmanns

It had some wire work done, theres random stuff in the engine bay rusted like near the coils thus I'd suspect it was those wires, the starter and main battery cable are brand new I believe cause the starter cable or something burnt up the old owner said.

The omp appears to not be functional atm, cant tear it out at my house waiting for a friend to let me got to their shop