Ok, I coulda put this in another topic i started, but it would get confusing. I like to ask ALOT of questions before deciding anything (as you can probably tell by all of my useless topics) anyway. If I was to do a turbo built 12a, can I turbo a standard 12a easily? can you buy aftermarket intake manifolds for fuel injection? or would I need a 12at block to start with? Im trying to keep this to a low $ for now, till I get enough ***** up to do a 13B swap. SO, 12a ok? or easier to buy a 12at? Main problem is the fuel delivery, carb or FI...? HELP!!!

 

You will have a hard and expensive time trying to find a 12AT block. They were not imported to the States and are rare. Many members have turboed 12As, carb and efi. The choice comes down to what you feel more comfortable with. In all honesty, save your money for the TII swap if that's the route you plan on going. Going efi could end up costing 1/2 or more of the price of the TII swap by the time you sourced all of the parts and tuned it.

 

only reason im trying to put off the t2 swap is the fact that finding an engine with all accessories, and wiring harness will be tough (short of just buying a donor t2 to steal parts from) i can find 13bt's all day long, but getting all the other stuff i need with it isnt so easy, im not one to like searching the earth for little parts here and there. money isnt an issue, my stress over looking for the parts is

but wouldnt all id need for a carb turbo build would be a rising rate fpr and maybe rebuild the carb for boost? ive never done much with carbed cars, so its still kinda got me stumped

 

TII parts are much easier to find. You do not need the harness and ecu and all of the sensors, if you go standalone, which isn't an unreasonable option, considering how old the oem wiring harnesses are. If you can locate a complete TI engine and tranny, then look into MegaSquirt for engine management.

 

Standalone ECU is the way to go. All you need to make the TII engine run is the intake manifolds, throttle body, injectors, air temp sensor, water temp, tps, coils and crank angle sensor.

 

reusing old thread. another hypothetical question... if i was to turbo build my 12a, tell me if this would be the main things id need. port, intake manifold and custom throttle bodies for injection, standalone/ or piggyback fuel controller, fuel pressure reg, turbo, turbo mani. and a few other small things. sound about right? im wanting turbo really bad but not the cost of a t2 swap and then rebuild and other parts. id come out cheaper i think with using my 12a...

would a piggyback be enough? if i went full standalone id end up having to wire a custom harness and thats a big ''hell no'' for me...

perhaps it would be easier to just turbo and leave the carb? would a draw through be easier and less stress on the carb? doesnt blow through require carb prep for boost? help me out cause im a dumbass when it comes to custom stuff like this.

 

stearling and rotary shack sell or can do boosted nikkis
rotary shack can do other carbs.

honestly i think a turbo setup is simple but tuning is the hard part
pretty much nailded on most stuff you need
ild recomend up grading the oil pump and a new water pump with a fmoc
if you can mount the turbo so the air outlet is pointing
to the carb you could have a pipe to the carb and would look tidy

there has been a few stock port turbo setups but porting would help alot more

oh and maybe a locked dizzy would help

 

Turbo Prepped Mikuni 44, 60-1 Turbo, Cast Iron manifold, Rising Rate FPR, custom DP and exhaust (im ok with a welder) FMOC (planed on anyway) and do you think running 6-8psi on the 12a would be ok w/o FMIC or would that be soemthing Id need. I can do it if needed, but if it wont hurt it, ill leave it be. Hows that sound for a setup:? thanks for helping a noob out

 

i envy you if you can offard this

lol im a newb on turbos my self so i can only give you hear say
maybe i saw 14 as a max with a rebuild without porting

but in the 6-8 i have seen mentioned alot as a base psi till you get comftale for higher

 

I ran up to 16psi on mine without an intercooler on a completely stock 12a with 135k miles. It took 19psi for a couple weeks before it cracked the back plate on the engine 14psi is about as high as you want to go on a stock 12a if you want it to be reliable.