Rusty Shackleford

since when switching from the beehive to a front mount everyone says to buy the new parts which cost alot or go to a junk yard and get parts off of a gsl-se or 2nd gen...could you just use these parts and have them just fit right in?????? other then getting hoses??


http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/I...21256710184434


http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/P...010781/c-10114

darkfrost

iTrader: (1)

This is interesting...hope someone can provide some more insight.

Rusty Shackleford

its listed under the 85 rx7 with 1.1 motor..so my gusse is yes.............

rbf41182gt

Wasn't there a thread a while ago about using the a/c condenser as a FMOC? Has anyone done that yet?

nothingbutrotor

Yeah, there was, but I think everyone agreed that the interior tubing would be too small, and that there was too big of a chance for contaminents or something.

Someone should try it though, I may since A) I dont use my A/C and B) I dont have anything better to do. As soon as I get my car running normal again I may try it.

steve84GS TII

Theres no reason the oil filter base wouldnt work.
But its hardly needed since all rotaries,regardless of factory cooler,are setup for external oil lines.On the beehive years,theres still the same fittings on the front and rear plates,just have some flexible lines made up by a hydro shop and your set.
Personally,I wouldnt install any aftermarket oil cooler on a rotary.99% of them dont have the size or mass needed to shed the kind of heat the factory coolers are made to handle.Plus,many/most lack the oil thermostat which aids in oil warmup.The best way to go is with a 2nd gen cooler.They are prolific because ALL 2nd gens had an air/oil cooler,and they dont suffer from split leaks like the 1st gen coolers.The 2nd gens also have a better mounting system and positionable,banjo type fittings on the cooler.

Rusty Shackleford

this plate i have up though is what i need in order to hook a front mount on.....

i just take my beehive off connect this plate to the top of the oil pedistal?? and then run lines for it??

FB II

i'm not so sure about that oil cooler. i completely agree with steve on this one.

MattG

iTrader: (2)

ok so if you do this then what do you do with the coolent lines that run to the beehive cooler, do I just bypass them or to I block them off on the rad?

SparkienSuggah

you should block off the water lines to the beehive, so you get more coolant through the heater core (and get heat, sweet blessed heat)..

what if you run a FMOC along with a beehive? any problems there? im might just be too lazy to remove the beehive when i install my FMOC.

MattG

iTrader: (2)

Double cooling the oil?? hmmm sounds like there is too many chances for a leak to me, I also sounds pointless. But I guess it could be done

SparkienSuggah

thats okay, "I also sounds pointless" all the time.. especially after a few drinks. *lol*

im just worried the oil wont cool enough while the vehicle is stopped, cause theres no positive airflow through the FMOC (its not sandwiched onto the rad, or is it supposed to be?)

Rusty Shackleford

i would mount mine either just below or pancaked to the front of it...also im planing on making a duct out of 1/16" ( or some thin sheet type) aluminum...to direct alittle better...


the beehive isnt doing much better when sitting at a stand still...not only is using the raiding temp coolant from the raditor but it also is absorbing heat from the engine bay...

Hades12

You have to look and you will see that the beehive is using part of the stock lines that the FMOC uses. The only way to have both is to break the line and plumb in the FMOC.

Best way is to pick up the cooler used for $100, have it cleaned $30, buy an aftermarkent pedistal with extra sensor bungs, $45 and then buy or have lines made, $50 - $100. This is a proven setup and works great, and lets you add oil pressure sensor and Oil temp sensor.