alignment
alignment
This is probably been asked a million times, how do you do the slignment on an 1985 GSL. I am specificly intrested in chamber, because I have excesive positive chamber. I searched and did not find waht I was looking for. So if you could point me in the correct direction/ tell me how to fix, I am all eyes lol
Thanks, Ted.
Thanks, Ted.
spec is 1 degree positive on each side..
you can get SOME adjustment by rotating the strut top position(they are offset for 4 different settings)
otherwise..turn in spacers..adjustable camber/caster plates..etc..
you can get SOME adjustment by rotating the strut top position(they are offset for 4 different settings)
otherwise..turn in spacers..adjustable camber/caster plates..etc..
Originally Posted by FBDrifter
spec is 1 degree positive on each side..
you can get SOME adjustment by rotating the strut top position(they are offset for 4 different settings)
otherwise..turn in spacers..adjustable camber/caster plates..etc..
you can get SOME adjustment by rotating the strut top position(they are offset for 4 different settings)
otherwise..turn in spacers..adjustable camber/caster plates..etc..
go more in depth on this.....
uhh the factory way to make adjustments is to remove all 4 upper strut mount bolts, puss the strut down and rotate the top 1/4 turn for a new position. there's an arrow on it for orientation...and 4 different settings. max camber/min caster, min camber/ min caster, min camber/min caster, max camber/max caster.
move the strut forward in the car will decrease caster, and moving it outward from the center of the car will increase camber.
if you change camber, your toe settings will be lost and you'll need to have a professional center you up unless you know how to do it yourself
turn-in spacers fit between the balljoint and the strut, changing the angle that it bolts together, correcting geometry for lowered cars and also allows for camber adjustments.
the adjustable plates give you a wide range of adjustment for camber and caster, but are expensive..
move the strut forward in the car will decrease caster, and moving it outward from the center of the car will increase camber.
if you change camber, your toe settings will be lost and you'll need to have a professional center you up unless you know how to do it yourself
turn-in spacers fit between the balljoint and the strut, changing the angle that it bolts together, correcting geometry for lowered cars and also allows for camber adjustments.
the adjustable plates give you a wide range of adjustment for camber and caster, but are expensive..
Intresting. I went off road autxing, and the people at the alignment shop could not align me. They said they could not get rid of teh positive chamber. As for rotating the strut, I assume when you mean push down, you mean push it out, and rotate it so the 4 bolts are in new holes??
Also to do this, would I remove the bolt on the top of the shock tower. Its the big *** one under the plastic cover?
Also to do this, would I remove the bolt on the top of the shock tower. Its the big *** one under the plastic cover?
no, dont have to remove the big one.
you'll have positive camber no mater what unless you lower it or do something else to bring the control arm up.
i think the SE front setup runs a little less camber. ( .5 and .5 opposed to 1.0 and 1.0)
you'll have positive camber no mater what unless you lower it or do something else to bring the control arm up.
i think the SE front setup runs a little less camber. ( .5 and .5 opposed to 1.0 and 1.0)
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