drunkclever

I am looking for that thread that someone did a while ago. It stated that the person passed emmision by routeing the air pump directly to the nipple on the cat.

Apprently the car I have someone closed the nipple with a copper cap and cut the hose after the elbow at the back side of the intake. They also tossed the check valve and metal tube that goes down there.

If I get a long enough hose will I be able to connect these to with out the use of a check valve. Or can someone point me in the direction of a sutible replacement. I need to do this ASAP, any help would be appreciated.

drunkclever

i searched for 30 minutes.. still nothing! wtf!


freaking chit! Do I need the freaking check valve??

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

The ACV (Air Control Valve) which sits on the side of the intake controls how much of the air from the air pump gets pumped into the cats.

When I removed my ACV, I used an adapter to clamp a big hose (from the air pump) to a little hose (from the cat) so that the air pump pumped directly into the cat.

IF they don't notice this oddity, then it may help your numbers because "the solution to pollution is dilution"

Jon

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

The "adapter" was just a leftover fitting for my fuel pump. On one side it usually would screw into a fuel pump or other thing like that, and the other side you'd clamp fuel hose to. If it wasn't the middle of the night (and if I could find that old hose) I'd take a pic for ya.

Jon

drunkclever

In routing the hose from the air pump to the cat did you:
1. have to route it to a valve of some type first? or
2. route it in such a way as to not come in direct contact with the exhaust system?


I can route it from the air ump to the cat with a hose. I don't know if that will last. I am missing the splight pipe.. can I route it straight from the a/p to the cat with no worries??

Stevan

iTrader: (17)

The metal tube, and check valve keep the heat from burning the rubber hose, and blowing hot exhaust back through the system.
I would think you need at least a check valve, but if you keep it like that longer than to pass emissions it will burn up your cat.
I had an 83 that wouldn't pass with that configuration, had to get a new cat, ran straight from the air pump, no acv, but with a check valve. It then passed, after the test I cut the belt to the air pump, could have just disconnected the hose to the cat.
Later made a straight pipe to replace the cat as it will also clog with no air going to it.

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

You don't need a check valve, unless they notice and tell you you need one.

You do however definitely need the metal tube, because the exhaust parts themselves get so hot that they make rubber catch on fire. Don't ask me how I know (oh, alright.... my car went in for service and they left my jury-rigged hose laying on top of my exhaust manifold, then it caught fire).

Get the metal tube, run a hose to the air pump and try it.

Running with *too* much air from the air pump will not "burn up your cat" as Stevan said. Running with no air at all from the air pump will.

Jon

drunkclever

thanks guys.

Stevan

iTrader: (17)

When I was trying to get the 83 to pass (around 8-9years ago), it was with the help of Rotary Performance of Margate FL.
Perry, the owner/operator advised me not to keep the air pumping to the cat for too long.
I don't recall if he said it would "burn up", or why. I assumed air, combustion, heat.
I still wouldn't do it indefinately, put a staight pipe in there and feel 66% of the power a header would provide. Bolt your cat in for the test once a year.
Jon, I don't mean to argue with you, for all I know your'e right, I'm just rehiterating the word of a mechanic I respect and trust.

Steve.