Air keeps coming out while brake bleeding
02-18-09, 01:45 PM
#26
Thats good to hear your brake troubles have been resolved as I was not so fortunate and needed a brake booster (which I believe rarely fail) which I didn't think was the culprit of my strange brake pedal feel. Leaking brake fluid from the rear seal on the MC leaked into the booster causing damage to the diaphragm inside.
02-18-09, 05:07 PM
#28
Brake fluid is quite destructive stuff; eats paint, eats many types of rubber, and once it becomes hydrated with water it promotes rust and attacks aluminum...
But it makes a great hand pre-cleaner! It'll get off many types of paint, glue, grease... and then it washes off easily with regular hand cleaner.
But it makes a great hand pre-cleaner! It'll get off many types of paint, glue, grease... and then it washes off easily with regular hand cleaner.
Originally Posted by boyee
...when I keep pumping the pedal with the engine on I notice that the idle stumbles or hunts. This is more apparent when the engine is cold and warming up rather than a fully warmed up engine idling. Signs of booster failing?
Originally Posted by boyee
Generally when anybody pumps the brake pedal with the engine off, the pressure builds and stays. When someone would do the same with the engine on, the brake booster is suppose to assist by allowing more variable leg pressure which will then slow my car at the rate I desire, easier. Otherwise without the booster assisting I believe that the brake pedal would be super hard to press down and the brakes will then be much harder to apply.
When I turn my engine on, the pedal sinks down, not all the way but to a point where I feel isn't normal. So I would assume my booster is working. Maybe it is working abnormally making it too easy for me to add pressure to slow down because my pedal would be at a collapsing rate until it reached the point where it becomes very firm and that is about when the car would nose dive because I believe that point in the MC is where most of the hydraulics get dispersed to all the calipers even if my pedal felt normal.
When I turn my engine on, the pedal sinks down, not all the way but to a point where I feel isn't normal. So I would assume my booster is working. Maybe it is working abnormally making it too easy for me to add pressure to slow down because my pedal would be at a collapsing rate until it reached the point where it becomes very firm and that is about when the car would nose dive because I believe that point in the MC is where most of the hydraulics get dispersed to all the calipers even if my pedal felt normal.
02-18-09, 05:28 PM
#29
Waffles - hmmm good
iTrader: (1)
I use the DOT 5 (silicone) brake fluid, I know a lot of folks dis it, but it really keeps the rust and corrosion down. I still bleed it every year with fresh fluid.
The SA MC have a bleed screw on the side so no bench bleeding required. SAs rule!
The SA MC have a bleed screw on the side so no bench bleeding required. SAs rule!
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Frisky Arab
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
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08-18-15 05:30 PM
